jeff via EV wrote:
I've used 100s, or 1000s of lead acid 12V batteries. Most were bought new in
lots of from one to 90. I learned early on to test each one. It is almost a
certainty some will be bad. Typical fallout for me was on the order of 5 to
15%. Return that puppy.
That's good advice -- and true for *all* batteries; not just lead-acid!
It's been said that there are "liars, damned liars, and battery
salesmen". I've tested a lot of batteries over the years, and it's rare
for them to meet their published specs. Marketing knows that not 1
customer in 1000 will ever test the battery; so they can get away with
exaggerated specs and ship everything, rejects and all. Unless it's
obviously bad, the customer will never know.
This is why you have to *test* them yourself. And, be vigilant about
returning the bad ones for credit. If you can *prove* the battery is
bad, the salesman has a harder time weaseling out of the warranty. The
better companies are actually pretty good about replacing "duds".
When you start testing, you'll find that there really *are* differences
between batteries. You do get what you pay for -- and, *don't* get what
you didn't pay for! If all the candidates make the same claims, and you
buy the cheapest one, you're likely to get the one with the most
exaggerated specs and the worst actual performance.
Among lead-acids, I've found that Trojan and US Battery floodeds,
Enersys and the *old* (not the current) Optimas AGMs, and the Deka gels
are good choices. Among nicads, Saft and Varta have been good. Among
lithiums, only the A123 cylindrical cells have consistently met their
claims.
That said: I've only tested a tiny fraction of what's on the market.
Take my advice as a hint; not gospel. Do your own testing!
--
A designer knows he has achieved perfection not when there is
nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.
-- Antoine de Saint Exupery
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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