I tested one of my original Curtis 1231C didoes, as well as one of the
replacement diodes I bought to replace them (see summary results below).
Questions for people with more experience:
1. The maximum amperage I could generate on my bench power supply is 3.2
amps. Is that enough amperage to compare the two diodes? The forward
voltage drop on both diodes appears to rise as the amperage rises, and I
don't know if the lines will cross as the amperage goes up.
2. Any pointers for measuring junction temperature and temperature rise?
Waving a non-contact thermometer around didn't give me super consistent
results.
Jay
Blog post link with photos:
https://www.summet.com/blog/2017/01/20/curtis-1231c-diodes-diotec-dr7506fr-vs-tsr2402r/
Summary of results:
Here are my results for the original TSR2402R that I unsoldered from my
broken controller:
Power Supply providing 3.2A, forward voltage drop: 0.776 volts
Power Supply providing 2.0A, forward voltage drop: 0.737 volts
Power Supply providing 1.0A, forward voltage drop: 0.697 volts
Fluke Diode Setting: 0.351 vdc
Average time for the button temperature to raise from 25 °C to 50 °C
with a 3.2A current: 45 seconds
The replacement parts I purchased were from DIOTEC, specifically their
DR7506FR model (the R at the end means “Reverse Polarity”, making them
an exact drop in replacement in form factor and polarity). They were
marked: “DT110 DR7506FR” plus a diode schematic. Here are my results
for the upgraded component:
Power Supply providing 3.2A, forward voltage drop: 0.754 volts
Power Supply providing 2.0A, forward voltage drop: 0.700 volts
Power Supply providing 1.0A, forward voltage drop: 0.646 volts
Fluke Diode Setting: 0.399 vdc
Average time for the button temperature to raise from 25 °C to 50°C with
a 3.2A current: 47.5 seconds
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