Update #1
Corrected links to pictures that were conditioned for insertion into another
server, they should be visible now.  New comments appended.
I am trying to help my 85 year old uncle realize one of his bucket list
items while there is still time, to drive this car at least once. He has
been working for over 30 years to slowly build an electric car using the GE
EV1-B controller that he purchased in 1984. The car chassis was hand built:
It was finally finished recently and is in a machine shop in Ludlow
Massachusetts. When we attempted to power it for the first time it failed.
Overview of controller assembly:
I have attempted to study the schematics and all available documentation. In
my distant past I have a degree in electrical engineering so I should
technically understand all documentation and pretty much understand how
things should work.
Relevant documents uploaded into my webpage directory:
Included is the most legible and complete copy of manual EV1.pdf with wire
diagram used on page 17.
 Re Cor’s comments:
The controller may be perfectly fine.
If there is no voltage on points L3, L5 and L7 *in reference to traction
battery negative* then fuse 3 (15 amps) is blown or a mis-wiring has
happened, because only fuse 3 and the key switch are between L3 and battery

 I made an error in my first post, should have said L4 not L3, corrected
below. I did have BV 59 volts at L3.
Using the “General Electric EV-! B, C, D Panel Replacement parts Lists and
Troubleshooting/Tune-Up Instructions” manual,  I noted that with SEAT and
BRAKE switches bypassed and KEY, FWD, and ACCEL switches appropriately set
per 3rd bullet point in Symptom section 1B there is not BV at L4, L5, and
L7, just minimal voltage. It appears but not confirmed that the new never
used but 30+ year old EV1-B controller is defective and am at a loss on how
to proceed. Any advice would be appreciated.

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