In my order of preference:
1- buy from someone you trust (and others vouch for if you have little 
experience with them)
2- get a written warranty
3- consider the money lost in case the quality is not as advertised.

You may be able to do some crude tests such as guesstimate internal resistance 
of the cells by loading them with a 100 Amp load and measuring drop,
but more important is the remaining capacity of the weakest cell and it is not 
likely you can determine that from 36 cells in an hour or two.

It may be possible to wire up the controller to a power source and make the 
motor spin, which would tell you about obvious damage to bearings or balance,
but it is not likely you can easily test it to the limits that it will see on a 
freeway doing redline, so again you will find out later if the motor is as good 
as advertised.

Testing the controller beyond the digital interface that you are already going 
to access with your program is the same as I wrote above.

One of the best ways to find out history is to know where the kit came from, so 
you can ask the previous owner about his use and experience with it.
Success and I hope this helps,

-----Original Message-----
From: EV [] On Behalf Of Matthew Quitter via EV
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 1:13 PM
Cc: Matthew Quitter
Subject: [EVDL] Tests for second hand purchase

Hi guys, 

I’m off to look at, with an aim to purchase, a bunch of second hand kit: An 
AC-50, Curtis 1238 and 36 160Ah Thundersky. 

They’re not installed in anything. I wont have the time to rig the whole kit up 
to bench test. 

Has anyone got any suggestions for what tests can be done on a motor and 
batteries, within an hour or two, to check their condition?

I can easily bring an RC charger and voltmeter with me. 
I also have the Curtis 1314 software on a PC and can use to look at the 1238. 

Is there something that can be used as a suitable test load for the cells?

What do you guys do when buying second hand EV parts with an unknown history?

Thank you!
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