I use the baking soda treatment on the battery tops, too. You will be surprised 
at the acid on there. Sometimes it’s enough to create a circuit between the 
posts. 

I’ve been doing this for 45 years.

- Mark

Sent from my Fuel Cell powered iPhone

> On Sep 1, 2019, at 2:48 PM, brucedp5 via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
> 
> Yes, Vaseline!
> Its an EV old timer method that works.
> 
> The 'quick and pretty' spray on types just do not last,
> and should not be used for a long term prevention.
> 
> See 1min+18sec in this video
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZB8oKNDajA
> 
> Yes its an ice video, & I do not agree totally with their methods.
> Nor do I in this video
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMzvqQGJGEc
> 
> I do not spoil my tools with acid build up. 
> I neutralize the acid first, then rinse & clean that up, before using my
> tools.
> 
> This link yaks about acid build up
> https://no.co/blog/ultimate-guide-to-clean-and-remove-car-battery-corrosion
> ...
> https://www.google.com/search?q=lead+acid+gassing+acid+spray+corrosion
> 
> 
> I used the same type of anti-acid grease that jay posted,
> only I bought it in a tube size. Even on a 132VDC EV (22 6V wet-cell PbSO4)
> pack replacement, I never used much of the tube. I might be wiser to 
> only buy what you need by going with Jay's approach of either several 
> small packets for a pack change, or just 1 or 2 for only a few batteries.
> 
> If you can't find these, here are some links:
> https://www.rvautoparts.com/09976-Permatex-Battery-Cleaner-For-Sealing-And-Coating-The-Terminals_p_374771.html
> Permatex Battery Cleaner For Sealing And Coating The Terminals
> Price: $1.04  (+shipping)
> 
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/American-Grease-Stick-AGS-Battery-Terminal-Protector-Dielectric-Grease-Pouch-4-g/128539358
> American Grease Stick (AGS) Battery Terminal Protector Dielectric Grease,
> Pouch, 4 g
> $1.19  Free delivery
> 
> I would 1st be concerned as to why there is a build up.
> Is the pack old (on its last year of tired life) thus its voltages have
> changed,
> but the charger is still banging away like it is a new (higher voltage)
> pack?
> Could be the last equalizing charger-stage is on too long.
> 
> Or was electrolyte spilled out of the cells because of over flow. 
> Cells should never be 'topped off before charging. Each cell should only
> have 
> enough 'distilled water' added to cover the plates before charging. Then
> once 
> the battery is fully charged, distilled water is added to the ring at the
> hole for the cap.
> 
> My approach to working the PbSO4 pack is to first put on old-clothes you
> don't mind
> allowing acid to eat holes into, wear rubber/kitchen gloves, and eye
> protection.
> Items you'll need are: baking soda, a cup to mix to with tap-water,
> paper-towels,
> a glass (windex) type glass cleaner, rubbing alcohol, and the tools to
> loosen &
> tighten the terminal clamps.
> 
> With the ac cord unplugged from the EV, the pack power 'kill switch set to
> off, and 
> all caps on their cells, I lightly hose down the tops of the batteries. 
> Then make several cups of baking-soda solution (2tbs per cup of tap-water)
> to pour 
> over the visible acid build up (to neutralize it).
> 
> Let that bubble up, and set for a few minutes, until bubbling stops. then
> rinse off 
> with tap-water. Repeat if acid-build up is very bad. 
> 
> Now that the acid level is much lower, use your tools to remove the terminal
> cables.
> Place each cable end with acid build up in a baking soda solution for
> several minutes 
> (to neutralize the acid). Rinse & repeat if needed.
> 
> I lightly spray the tops of the batteries with the glass cleaner (to remove
> road-grime 
> contamination), and wipe down with a paper towel.
> 
> With a new paper towel fold it in a pad, put alcohol on it, and use that to
> clean the
> cable ends and terminal sides that with make metal-to-metal contact with
> each other
> when joined back together (using your tools).
> 
> An EV old timer said he put Vaseline on the terminals before you put the
> clams on
> (he was a EE). He said the tight frictional fit makes the cable end
> bite-into the 
> terminal post (making metal-to-metal contact, despite the Vaseline)
> 
> Im of a different mind-set that has worked well for over 15 years. I do not
> coat the 
> cable end nor the terminal post, until after I have put the alcohol cleaned
> pieces
> together tightly. I then coat all surfaces of each post union (bottom and
> tops) with
> said anti-acid grease.
> 
> With a clean paper towel folded as a 2 ply, I remove the caps and lay them
> out on
> the towel. With another clean paper towel, I gently wipe away any road grime
> still
> on the battery top that were held by the battery caps (being careful to wipe
> away 
> from the holes in the battery). 
> 
> I then ensure each cell has enough 'distilled water' to cover the plates.
> Then 
> check/clean the bottom of a cap with a clean paper towel before replacing
> the 
> cap back onto the battery.
> 
> Then I do a slow level-1 l1 charge overnight to fully charge the battery.
> Afterward,
> I again remove the caps in the same manner, and then fill with
> 'distilled-water' the 
> now fully charged battery to its ring at the caps hole.
> 
> Place the caps back on, check the cable tightness again, and again lightly
> glass cleaner
> spray the tops of the battery, wiping down with a paper towel. (btw, the
> glass
> cleaner is a mild alkaline solution, so it helps neutralize any residual
> acid, besides 
> keeping the tops clean for when you show them to the public or keeping pack
> leakage 
> currents to a minimum).
> 
> Then, rinse off your tools, recycle the used paper towels, wash your gloves
> and hands 
> with a mild soap, then change, and rinse your clothes.
> 
> 
> 
> For EVLN EV-newswire posts use:
> http://evdl.org/archive/
> 
> 
> {brucedp.neocities.org}
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/
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