I was going to use a simple 12v inverter to 120 VAC and then 2 diode, 2
capacitor voltage doulbler to 330 VDC at 600 mA or so max, straight to the
Volt battery.  No activation of Volt's BMS.  Safety is provided by a
pushbuton activation latch that can only be turned on when I know there is
room in the battery for 4 miles or more and sun is shining.  When the sun
goes down, the latch falls out and any subsequent days, will not activate
unless I push the  button when there is the 4 miles range available at the
top.  So all I need to find is the tap point directly to the battery before
the contactors.  Fuses and diodes will also be used.

Bob

On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 3:37 AM Ing. Marco Gaxiola <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Hey Rob..
>
> Hopefully you recover quickly and ready for that EV project.
>
> With regards using the 240W solar to charge the HV battery; that may not
> be that easy if you want to do that Straight DC to DC:
>
> - First you will need to have an efficient DC-DC step-up converter from
> 20-40Vdc into something around 300-400Vdc with MPPT feature. (Not easy to
> get).
>
> - Then the most complicated part you’ll have to wake certain modules up
> from the Volt (BCM, HV charger, BMS and maybe a few other) so it can
> properly track the energy being generated by your solar panel.
>
>    But that won’t be easy. In fact, it will be quite complex since all
> these modules requires to see the AC power from the EVSE, sense the pilot
> and proximity signals in order to close HV contactors. And those conditions
> may not exist or if they do, may set Trouble codes since no AC will be
> present.
>
>
>     An idea just came to my mind,  very very basic but efective suggestion
> would be: to build a box with a considerable size 12.8V LiFePO4 battery, an
> ‘Off the shelf’ solar charger controller and a 1.5Kw 12v-120v AC inverter
> to generate Level1 enough to use the Volt onboard charger.
>
>     An internal automatic inter connection in between the inlet charge
> port can be made, so nothing can be seen from outside while charging from
> solar.
>
>     The solar panel will continuously charge the 12.8V lithium pack all
> the times. When enough charge and vehicle is turned off, it can start L1
> charging the car. When the charge on that lithium battery goes low, the
> charge controller will automatically cut off the output but the solar will
> continue to charge the battery to a minimum set point, after some
> minutes/half hr. output will re-enable and L1 charge re-start for a few
> minutes again.
>
>     This process can go over and over as long there is sun and car
> requires the charge. It’s not the best and most efficient way but will work
> with no problem.
>
>
> Marco
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 16, 2020, at 11:29 PM, Robert Bruninga via EV <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> >
> > When I recover in a few months, you can see my ideas for flattening the
> roof
> > and  adding 240W of solar panels to my Volt in a Back-to-the-future
> design
> > on this web page.  Also adding a bed for a Volt-Inn.
> >
> > I know it makes no practical economic sense, but makes it a real
> eye-catcher
> > and conversation starter.
> >
> > Now all I have to figure out is where I can feed in the 300 VDC for
> charging
> > the HV battery...
> >
> > http://aprs.org/my-EVs.html
> >
> > Bob
> > _______________________________________________
> > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> > ARCHIVE: http://www.evdl.org/archive/index.html
> > INFO: http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org
> > Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
> >
>
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