The usual instrument for measuring insulation leakage is called a "megger" or "hipot tester". This can give you a quantified value of the leakage in ohms-per-volts. Most any motor shop will have one, and can test for you.

Finding your fault is likely going to me more involved even if you buy or borrow the megger. I sniffed for leakage in my hydroelectric generator wiring by building a GFCI tester out of the cord from an old pressure washer and a light bulb, and went looking for the fault. It's a go/no go proposition, disconnecting parts of the circuit and testing, repeating as many times as necessary until you stop getting trips.

In your case, since you aren't getting consistent tripping, you either need to find a GCFI that trips consistently and use that to test, or increase the amount of leakage in the test circuit to just below the threshold of tripping, then connect the car, which should trip the GCFI until the fault is corrected. Adding some very high value resistors between the "hot" leg of the GFCI output and ground will increase it's sensitivity. This, by itself, might be a trial and error project, and will require some number of resistors on hand to experiment with. You will be careful when fiddling with this, right?

Of course, you know where to look for common fault paths in the car? Motor brush carbon dust, dried and cracked insulation on high voltage conductors, intrusion of road splash and dust near energized conductors, etc? Any place that pack voltage and 12 volts from the cars electrical system come together, even come close at all, are highly suspect, metering, BMS, relays and contactors, etc. If you start getting close to the problem(s), then a visit to the motor shop's megger might be more informative.

The ultimate solution might be to have a big, heavy isolation transformer that you lug around everywhere. That was one of the good features of the old Lester chargers, full isolation, and they made your car ride stylishly low, no need for coil-overs...

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