Great info.

Yes, I considered the extra 12v battery and then 120v inverter at 1.5 kW to
drive an L1 cord, but as you say, it would

Be quite inefficient.  With the 240W solar panel, probably giving a total
of 1kWh per day (average per year at my latitude), then that would only
give about 50 minutes of charging at L1.  Hardly worth it.



So my probable use is:

1)      Wire solar charger to 12v battery for charging/maintenance – AND
providing 12v power for when car is ON and sitting, to reduce the static
VOLT load of about 500W when sitting-and-ON.  Can anyone confirm the true
energy load when Volt is ON and parked?



2)      Wire to small GT inverter connected to J1772 charging socket so
that while sun is shining and Volt is plugged in, then my home grid gets
the power.  But then I have to standardisze on either a 120v GT inverter
and only L1 charging or go with a 240v GT inverter and only use L2
charging..  But only the 120v GT inverters are cheap enough to be practical
here (about $75 each)



My Volt is already configured with a 1500 W quasi-sine inverter in the
trunk just for routine running of tools, etc and lighting/refrigerator in
the house when the grid goes down.  So that is why having the 240W of solar
panels can provide some benefit.



Frankenvolt:  http://aprs.org/my-EVs.html



Yesterday I completed the rear-end sidecurtain stuff and it seems I was
able to do it with flat plywood sidecurtains and a modestly curved piece of
plywood and plexiglass across the back.  I was amazed that I could find
surfaces where the mostly flat plywood would fit and close the gaps.



Bob





*From:* Marco Gaxiola <mgaxi...@gmail.com>
*Sent:* Monday, May 18, 2020 2:05 PM
*To:* Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.evdl.org>
*Cc:* Robert Bruninga <bruni...@usna.edu>
*Subject:* Re: [EVDL] FrankenVolt coming along...



That is correct, none of the HV wiring outside the battery pack will
energize, before those internal HV contactors pre-charing, closing and
energizing the HV bus first before any HV module can draw or add energy
from the pack.



The magic process starts typically when you plug your J1772 EVSE on a
120Vac outlet. (L1) there is only a small number of modules on the Volt-EV
that wakes up after Pilot signal handshaking with the EVSE, and all this
happens on the 12V side first.



After a few validations, one of those awaken modules have the ability to
wake up the BMS inside the battery pack and also provide 12V power, so the
BMS can close the HV contactors (generally 2 for charging), and those may
be ones requiring most power than everything else during that L1 session.



To put in some numbers: maybe 3 CAN modules awaken drawing 1A each, plus
those 2 HV contactors, maybe 1A each = 5Amps total, that would represent
70watts approx. This without considering if the DCDC also wakes up and your
12V battery is low and requires charging. Although this would be
temporarily and as soon your 12V batt enters floatation mode, that power
will be insignificant.



So, in the case you would be able to do all that magic, to avoid opening
the pack and bypass that HV circuitry; then you may want to have a trigger
point from your PV that can ensure you will not produce less power than
that 'static' required to keep those 12V modules. And still you would be at
risk if the vehicle 12V batt is too low, rather than charging the HV pack,
you will discharge it for maybe 20-40mins. But the good thing on this is
that your 12V batt will be full now and that is the most important thing to
start with. (no 12V batt, no HV even-though HV batt full).



But not a grid-tie inverter, that will not work if it doesn't see a 120V
since wave, you just need a 12Vdc -> 120Vac 1.5Kw continuous power
inverter, powered by an additional 12V battery that is charged from your
PV. That may be the most practical way, not best efficient, but easy to do
method if I'm not missing something else.







On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:39 AM Robert Bruninga via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
wrote:

I assume those conductors are not alive until the main contactor inside
the battery box is activated.  And once those are activated through some
kind of volt software magic, the static load of powering up the system
will draw more power than the 240 watts the solar panels can produce.

Bob


-----Original Message-----
From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> On Behalf Of Peter VanDerWal via EV
Subject: Re: [EVDL] FrankenVolt coming along...

> Oh, and I still welcome anyone with info on where I can easily access
> the 300V battery terminals for charging.

> Maybe use vampire splice connectors on the high voltage cables to the
Accessory "Power Control Module" in the trunk?
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