Send EV mailing list submissions to

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to

You can reach the person managing the list at

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of EV digest..."

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Vacuum Pump Noise, the easy way (storm connors)
   2. Re: That was some good advise (on my batteries) (Roger Stockton)
   3. Re: Heath Kit controller? (Jack Murray)


Message: 1
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 14:41:39 -0400
From: "storm connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Vacuum Pump Noise, the easy way
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252

I have a Vac pump sold by "Stainless Steel Brakes". It is a motor driven
unit. Do tou suppose the CL-60 would work on it? I don't want to damage it.
How does the CL-60 make it quieter? Does it slow it down?

On 8/21/07, Mark Hanson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi,
> Just put a CL-60 (inrush surge protector from Digi-Key or Allied) in
> series
> with the Gast Vacuum pump and it starts and runs much quieter.  I did this
> on my last 5 EV's.  On my E-Porsche I didn't need one since I'm using a
> 17mm
> master cyl with the fulcrum point higher on the brake peddle.
> Have a renewable energy day,
> Mark
> _________________________________________________________________
> Find a local pizza place, movie theater, and more?.then map the best
> route!
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see



Message: 2
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 11:43:37 -0700
From: "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] That was some good advise (on my batteries)
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="US-ASCII"

Steve Powers wrote: 

> 4. I was very surprised that no one recommended the 12
> V Group 24 Daka (East Penn) AGM 80 AH batts.

DEKA is known for the quality of their AGMs, but that doesn't mean their
AGMs are at the same level.

The DEKA (Seamate 8A24M, 79Ah C/20, 140min RC, 470CCA/660CA, 53lbs)
looks OK on paper, but the real test is whether or not it will stand up
to the high currents Evs routinely subject their batteries to.  Concorde
makes high quality AGMs, for instance, but they have been shown not to
stand up well to the rigours of EV use.  I don't recall hearing from
anyone on the list using DEKA AGMs with success (I believe one of the AK
guys, Mike W perhaps?, started with a set of the group 31s but
encountered some sort of difficulties with them and set them aside in
favour of a set of floodies after just a short time).

For what its worth, the DEKA 8A24M, despite being a larger, heavier
battery has lower cranking amp ratings than the D34[M] Optima:
470CCA/660Ca vs 750CCA/870CA which would make me question if the DEKA
will survive EV use as well.

The Optima (and Orbital) is proven in EV use and at the 1hr rate it
should deliver 94% of the capacity of the group 24 DEKA while weighing
nearly 19% less.

I know 10 Optimas will do what you require because I have 10 in my car
and have an 8mi (each way, but I charge at work) commute.  I know that
at 50% DOD it is possible to get 1000-1500 cycles from a set of properly
cared for YTs in an EV.  The DEKAs may hold up as well, or they may not,
I can't say.

> 5. Just one last time, what is the fundamantal
> difference between the Optima D34s (yellow top) and
> D34MS (blue top).

Colour of the lid, and the blue top marine version comes with both SAE
automotive posts and threaded studs, which provides a convenient means
of attaching individual chargers or regs or monitors, etc. independently
of the high-current traction wiring.




Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2007 11:49:03 -0700
From: Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heath Kit controller?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Dan, what have you contributed besides constant verbal garbage?  Jack

Dan Frederiksen wrote:
> if power electronics actually were expensive we could look to a 
> contactor controller but I reiterate that Ian Hooper summed up the power 
> electronics cost in a curtis to roughly 80$ total. while some modules 
> are quite expensive it seems that doing it with many small IGBTs in 
> parallel is quite cheap. certainly far better than a mechanical 
> solution. so if you indeed have a working design, show it so others can 
> build it too, be it with large surplus modules or brand new small 
> transistors
> Dan
> Jack Murray wrote:
>>The cost of the controller is all in the testing and research, not in 
>>the assembly.  While it seems the Zilla IS expensive to assemble from 
>>the comments (never seen one), recovering the cost of all the 
>>development is most important.
>>The controller I've built using IGBT modules is not hard to assemble at 
>>all, and perhaps once its all debugged I could sell the circuit board 
>>and others could get the modules and caps etc to build one, but I'll bet 
>>by that time the cheap ebay IGBT modules won't be available anymore, and 
>>new ones are very expensive.
>>My view is that a low-cost way of getting a controller is to build a 
>>hybrid contact controller with the low-cost low-voltage controllers,
>>use them for smooth take-off, then switch them out with contactors.
>>There are a lot of ways to build things to save money, there just is NO 
>>INCENTIVE AT ALL for someone to build test and debug such systems.
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see


For subscription options, see

End of EV Digest, Vol 1, Issue 66

Reply via email to