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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Aluminum vs Copper interconnects (Dan Frederiksen)
2. Re: Battery theory (Lee Hart)
3. Re: Curtis Heat Sink Source (Lee Hart)
4. Re: 12v to 15v DC/DC on eBay (Lee Hart)
5. Re: Curtis Heat Sink Source (Dave Cover)
6. Re: Sustainable goals...used components (Bob Bath)
7. Electric Pump for Power Brakes (was Another EV (Ranger)
Grin!) (Dave Oliveria)
8. Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay? (Dave Oliveria)
9. Re: Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay? (Jim Husted)
10. Re: killacycle crash - High quality video
(Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins)
11. Re: Battery theory (Jeff Shanab)
12. Trojan 24tm (Carl Clifford)
13. Re: Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay? (Roland Wiench)
14. BugE (Michael Perry)
15. Re: Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay? (Tom Shay)
16. Re: Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay? (Bob Bath)
17. Looking for Dean Grannes and Stephanie Masumura (Chip Gribben)
18. Re: Looking for Dean Grannes and Stephanie Masumura
([EMAIL PROTECTED])
19. Re: killacycle crash - High quality video (Derek Barger)
20. Re: SAFT point of contact (Evan Tuer)
21. Wheel Alignment Surprise (Mark Hanson)
22. Re: SAFT point of contact (Dmitri)
23. Re: Wheel Alignment Surprise (Timothy Balcer)
24. Re: Trojan 24tm (Timothy Balcer)
25. Re: Battery theory + advice on charger (Timothy Balcer)
26. Re: Battery theory + advice on charger (Rod Hower)
27. Chain length calculator. (Lawrence Rhodes)
28. Re: Cell reversal (storm connors)
29. Re: Electric Pump for Power Brakes (was Another EV (Ranger)
Grin!) (storm connors)
30. Re: Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay? (Dave Oliveria)
31. Re: San Francisco visit (storm connors)
32. Russco Charger On Ebay ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
33. Slow Traffic (Jeff Major)
34. Re: Electric Pump for Power Brakes (was Another EV
(Ranger)Grin!) (Roland Wiench)
35. Test (Jeff Major)
36. Re: Test (Jim Husted)
37. Re: Test (Jeff Major)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:31:24 +0200
From: Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Aluminum vs Copper interconnects
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
why don't you tell what the problem is instead? what would happen
Mark Hanson wrote:
> Try aluminum bussbars instead of copper cable and then let us know
> about dissimilar metal creep next year.
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 10:15:55 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery theory
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> Hypothetically we start with these two cells at 20% and 90% and apply
> a regulated charge voltage to them while connected in parallel.
> Wouldn't the 90% full tend to climb rapidly and take less current
> while the 20% cell would tend to draw more charging current?
Maybe... but what if the 90% full cell just heats up faster because it
is so close to full, so its voltage actually drops, causing it to draw
even more current and overcharge even faster?
> And I disagree with the 90/10% estimate. I have a pdf here of a study
> that illustrates this is not the case.
Experiments always trump talk! Bring on the data! Better yet, do the
experiments yourself! Remember that many published studies are done to
promote somebody's product, not to provide "truth". They need to be
independently verified before they can be accepted as fact.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 13:54:36 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Curtis Heat Sink Source
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Chet Fields wrote:
> wondering if there is a sort of stock or off the shelf heatsink that
> would work with a Curtis 1221C... The Wakefield extrusion 5384 in
> about a 12" length seems to be just about right but I don't know of
> any sources for just that small amount.
It used to be that heatsink manufacturers kept short lengths of
their various extrusions in stock. You could order (say) a 4-foot
piece and cut and machine it to your desired specs yourself. This was
a quick and easy way to do prototypes or one-offs.
But lately, all the ones I've talked to have stopped doing this.
EVERYTHING has minimum orders and long lead times. Yes, they have
distributors; but they only stock the little "toy" heatsinks.
I've had better success going to surplus outfits and buying either a big
old heatsink, or some piece of junk equipment that has one on it and
salvaging that. Be aware that even these don't last long, because the
scrap value of aluminum is high.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 14:14:54 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 12v to 15v DC/DC on eBay
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Hump wrote:
>> You could buy one for each of your batteries and hook the output to
>> the next battery in the string chaining them all the way down the
>> string then looping the last one back to the first battery and your
>> pack would charge itself.
It could be used to *balance* the pack. But to charge it, connect all
their 12v inputs to a single large source that is AC powered.
Vicor modules are very reliable and well made, so this could be an
excellent modular charging system. But the cost would be prohibitive
(unless you get them cheap like this).
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> Hmm, sounds much too complicated, besides the voltage potential between
> the first and last battery might exceed the device's isolation
> capabilities.
Vicor specs 4000v isolation input-out, 1500v input to baseplate, and
500v output to baseplate. I've never had one fail hipot. However, the PC
board layout may compromise this.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:51:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Curtis Heat Sink Source
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> Chet Fields wrote:
> > wondering if there is a sort of stock or off the shelf heatsink that
> > would work with a Curtis 1221C... The Wakefield extrusion 5384 in
> > about a 12" length seems to be just about right but I don't know of
> > any sources for just that small amount.
>
I recycled a rust bucket of a Saab EV with a Curtis controller. The Curits was
mounted to a piece
of quarter inch aluminum plate, about 12" by 16". If you don't need significant
cooling, and you
can keep a good flow of air over the back of the plate, this might work for you.
Dave Cover
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 15:58:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Sustainable goals...used components
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Personally, I did a conversion based on a glider that
someone had done before. Might want to check and see;
I know someone has done a Tercel. The point is to
check out how many batteries they were able to sink
into it. Were they able to get an adapter plate for
it? Do they have suspension modification kits? Where
did they find space to mount each component. Are
there plenty of the model left in the junkyard if a
door handle breaks? etc. As you do your conversion,
be sure to videotape it for posterity (ie, someone
else making the journey you're going)...
Hope that helps,
--- docjim <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I have aquired two conversion candidates and need
> components on a very modest
> budget (read UNEMPLOYED IN MICHIGAN) I've been shy
> about making my
> purchases of used motors on eBay because I am
> terrified of making a $500 or
> greater mistake since I've got five special needs
> kids to feed! I need lots
> of advice and as many recommended used components
> (like Advance DC, Curtis,
> Zillas, etc) as I can get my hands on to complete
> these projects. The grade
> here is a modest 1-2% and my build goal is to make
> for highway speeds and 40
> mile range between charges. The Gross Vehicle
> Weight on the gliders I've
> gotten (Mercury Capri and Toyota Tercel) are 3300lbs
> and 2600lbs
> respectively.
>
> Although not a perfect solution, I have a source for
> lots and lots of lead
> acid batteries virtually free. Some deep-cycle,
> most not, all used. Trying
> to desulficate with off-the-shelf battery minder.
> Again, any advice is
> appreciated.
>
> Any suggestions or offers to sell me used or surplus
> components would be
> welcome either to the forum or by direct email
> response to me (jim at
> localestore.com) I can be reached at 989-672-3229
> during the day.
>
> Additionally, I've aquired a 1992 Mitsubishi Mirage
> conversion. Needs
> batteries and controller.
> --
> View this message in context:
>
http://www.nabble.com/Sustainable-goals...used-components-tf4439492s25542.html#a12666653
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? For $20 DVD you can purchase footage of my
'92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at: www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 17:12:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Oliveria <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Electric Pump for Power Brakes (was Another EV
(Ranger) Grin!)
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Storm,
Just checked out Summit Racing and their electic Vacuum Pump for brakes. Wow,
$330 for the kit not counting shipping and any taxes? That's a bit higher than
I was expecting. I was considering a used pulley vacuum pump, electric motor,
pressure switch and reservoir. I was budgeting around $150 or so for the all
the parts. A kit offers one-stop shopping with most of the labor already done
for you but the sticker shock still lingers!
Since driving my EV around town I'm becoming quite good at stopping with lots
of pressure. I haven't resorted to both feet yet (as Bob Rice suggests) but I
may come to that in an emergency!
I checked out your website on your poorman's charger and it looks like a great
idea! As I mentioned on your blog, though, I'm looking for a plug-n-charge
approach to recharging. I've been using Bob Rice's Monster Charger for two
weeks now and I find myself babysitting it; adusting the volts every so often,
etc.
Are you coming down for the next NEEAA meeting? We can talk more then about
these things.
Thanks!
Dave
PS: I bought an IOTA DC/DC for the 12v but just haven't found the place to
install nor connect it up yet.
----- Original Message ----
From: storm connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 4:29:41 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Another EV (Ranger) Grin!
Have you looked at the electric vacuum pump from Summit Racing?
There is also an on board charger installation on my blog. It puts out 177v
so it is good for a boost, but not quite enough for a full charge- but it
cost < $25. Also, if money is an issue, I've had good luck with my laptop
power supply for charging the 12V battery.
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:07:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Oliveria <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay?
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Good EVening, EVeryone;
I have two questions about what's typical in amp draw and a warm motor when I
drive. I just got my Ranger EV conversion to run two Mondays ago. Since then
I've been taking several runs including longer drives to determine range.
Q1 - I'm noticing that I seem to consistently draw from 200 to 450 amps in each
gear (2nd, 3rd, 4th) to get up to speed and in climbing hills (and sometimes
I'm still not going the posted speed limit). I appear to maintain 50mph at
100amps. Is this normal?
Q2 - My 9" ADC motor smells like it's warming up the windings after each trip.
I've felt for temp and it's been warm. Today it was down right hot to the
touch after a 8-mile trip to town and back. I put a meter on the temp switch
pigtails after I got home to make sure that they weren't closed (indicating a
high-temp condition). Is this high temp thing normal?
Thanks for your guidance in advance!
Dave "Still EV Grinning" O
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 18:39:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hey Dave
If ya want take some pics of the brush leads and
commutator (best you can) and email them to me and
I'll have a look. I'll also check for your
advancement if you catch me a shot of the brushes and
the housing. It sounds as if you may have a lot of
stops and hilld by you and it may be causing the motor
to work a bit harder.
Adding an air blower to blow through it would allow it
to run cooler and increase it's duty cycle. The
internal motor fan isn't super at lower RPM's and
doesn't do anything when you come to a stop for
example.
Anyway I'd be able to tell you more after some pics.
Hope this helps.
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
____________________________________________________________________________________
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:47:36 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
From: "Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] killacycle crash - High quality video
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Derek,
Are you racing at Bandimere, and will it be open to the public?
Thanks,
BB
>Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 23:30:35 -0600
>From: "Derek Barger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>We are racing against a gas powered drag bike for a show. It would be
>nice to beat the other team if possible. It is not just who finishes
>first but they are looking at other aspects. Such as how well we apply
>the torque to the ground in the first 60ft. Hopefully they will have
>some cool high speed camera going like Myth Busters. To see how well
>our launches are. How fast we are in the pits compared to gas powered
>equipment. We are going to be doing some fast charging. It is easier
>to dump gas in a fuel tank but with the Rudman charger we hope to be
>just as fast. At least it will be less fumes and mess than normal
>racing fuel and less expensive.
>I am hoping that we can prove that electric racing is just as
>practical or better than an ICE racing program. That might open some
>eyes.
>
>Derek Barger
>KillaCycle Team
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:03:49 -0700
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery theory
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
After thinking about it two cells may not tell us what we need to know.
2 items in parallel looks an awfully lot like 2 in series LOL
But seriously, the current from one battery has no choice as to where it
will go. WE may need to have 3 or more in the test to really get a good
picture of how they behave.
Nice job on the software! What 'api' is it useing? I wanna know if I can
compile it for linux :-) wxgtk? cocoa, mono?
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:25:55 -0600
From: Carl Clifford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Trojan 24tm
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi List,
Anyone have an opinion on the Trojan 24TM? It's on sale for 129.00 at Gander
Mountain and I thought I should look into an alternative to the Hawker 1200's
for my USE S10 since as someone pointed nobody ever saw one with many miles on
it.
I am going to re-fit it with one string of 312v instead of two. The max
voltage draw is less than 200v if I undertand correctly so the Hawkers probably
weren't a good option from that point of view anyway.
My head spins when I try to sort throught all of the batteries Trojan makes, so
if anyone has another recommendation, that would be great.
Thanks
Carl Clifford
Denver
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:36:37 -0600
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello Dave,
You may not have a high enough overall gear ratio. I am pulling a 7000 lbs
EV and in 1st gear to 25 mph at 6000 rpm at a overall ratio of 19.5:1 and
2nd gear to 45 mph at 6000 rpm which is a 13.5:1 overall gear ratio in 2nd
gear.
It is best to keep the rpm up as high as possible.
I can keep it at 200 amps either in 1st or in 2nd gear. Also I am using a 6
inch Dayton 6 inch 150 cfm blower that attaches to the brush covers. Use a
6 inch carb filter housing attach to the input air on the fan. This is with
a Warp 9 motor.
I run the fan all the time, no matter what the ambient temperature is. I
have a Stewart Warner temperature sensor on the the motor which have never
went above the ambient air temperature. It is best to connected the
temperature thermo switches to a on dash 12 vdc LED to warn you of the high
temperature.
If the temperature warning lights come on, then let up on the accelerator,
and leave the blower fan running to cool down your motor.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Oliveria" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 7:07 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay?
> Good EVening, EVeryone;
>
> I have two questions about what's typical in amp draw and a warm motor
> when I drive. I just got my Ranger EV conversion to run two Mondays ago.
> Since then I've been taking several runs including longer drives to
> determine range.
>
> Q1 - I'm noticing that I seem to consistently draw from 200 to 450 amps in
> each gear (2nd, 3rd, 4th) to get up to speed and in climbing hills (and
> sometimes I'm still not going the posted speed limit). I appear to
> maintain 50mph at 100amps. Is this normal?
>
> Q2 - My 9" ADC motor smells like it's warming up the windings after each
> trip. I've felt for temp and it's been warm. Today it was down right hot
> to the touch after a 8-mile trip to town and back. I put a meter on the
> temp switch pigtails after I got home to make sure that they weren't
> closed (indicating a high-temp condition). Is this high temp thing
> normal?
>
> Thanks for your guidance in advance!
>
> Dave "Still EV Grinning" O
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 19:29:05 -0700
From: "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] BugE
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
For those interested, I received this email from Edward Gunderson (via the
BugE Interest group). For the couple who may not know of this vehicle, it's
a home-built kit EV. (You can buy the basic chassis along with additional
kits... add batts and a few hours and you have an EV.)
************************************
The BugE is available for test drives at:
Revolution Cycles
302-8049
1061 W. 2nd St.
Eugene OR 97402
Revolution also has an interesting assortment of new and used
bicycles and accessories.
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 20:07:30 -0700
From: "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
I had a Ranger EV conversion with a 9-inch ADC motor, 120-volt batery pack
and 500-amp controller. That truck was slow as I'm sure yours is. My
Ranger
couldn't be hurried to accelerate from a stop or to climb a hill without
rapidly
heating the motor.
You should be measuring motor current, not battery current. To keep the
motor
temperature reasonable, keep the motor rpm up and the motor current under
300
amps. If that means that drivers behind you are extremely distressed, so be
it. You
have to decide whether you want your motor to live or whether you want to
accelerate and climb with the fast traffic. I got used to climbing hills at
half the speed
of the others as I hope you will.
I live on a hill and the last half mile coming home is
uphill and steep. I climbed that hill in 1st gear at about 200 amps and
15mph which was
plenty with a hot motor and a tiring battery pack. I could have climbed in
2nd gear
at about 25 mph and 350-400 amps but I wanted to spare the motor and
batteries.
My next door neighbor with an F-150 would tease me about my slow truck.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Oliveria" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 6:07 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay?
> Good EVening, EVeryone;
>
> I have two questions about what's typical in amp draw and a warm motor
> when I drive. I just got my Ranger EV conversion to run two Mondays ago.
> Since then I've been taking several runs including longer drives to
> determine range.
>
> Q1 - I'm noticing that I seem to consistently draw from 200 to 450 amps in
> each gear (2nd, 3rd, 4th) to get up to speed and in climbing hills (and
> sometimes I'm still not going the posted speed limit). I appear to
> maintain 50mph at 100amps. Is this normal?
>
> Q2 - My 9" ADC motor smells like it's warming up the windings after each
> trip. I've felt for temp and it's been warm. Today it was down right hot
> to the touch after a 8-mile trip to town and back. I put a meter on the
> temp switch pigtails after I got home to make sure that they weren't
> closed (indicating a high-temp condition). Is this high temp thing
> normal?
>
> Thanks for your guidance in advance!
>
> Dave "Still EV Grinning" O
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:09:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Dave, I'm afraid I'm missing a couple of vital pieces.
a) If you are pulling that many battery amps from
floodies, not good.
If you are talking controller amps to the motor,
you're going to be okay, especially if you're talking
about the 400-450 from a dead stop only, and not
constant.
The other thing is that the motors are made to really
heat up to the touch. They have insulation, and are
built to specs such that they can handle it.
Obviously, you haven't given us _specific_ temps, but
you never described it as "burning hot omigosh, OUCH!"
so I'm going to say it sounds like mine, which is 3200
lbs., and 8" armature.
peace,
--- Dave Oliveria <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Good EVening, EVeryone;
>
> I have two questions about what's typical in amp
> draw and a warm motor when I drive. I just got my
> Ranger EV conversion to run two Mondays ago. Since
> then I've been taking several runs including longer
> drives to determine range.
>
> Q1 - I'm noticing that I seem to consistently draw
> from 200 to 450 amps in each gear (2nd, 3rd, 4th) to
> get up to speed and in climbing hills (and sometimes
> I'm still not going the posted speed limit). I
> appear to maintain 50mph at 100amps. Is this
> normal?
>
> Q2 - My 9" ADC motor smells like it's warming up the
> windings after each trip. I've felt for temp and
> it's been warm. Today it was down right hot to the
> touch after a 8-mile trip to town and back. I put a
> meter on the temp switch pigtails after I got home
> to make sure that they weren't closed (indicating a
> high-temp condition). Is this high temp thing
> normal?
>
> Thanks for your guidance in advance!
>
> Dave "Still EV Grinning" O
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? For $20 DVD you can purchase footage of my
'92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at: www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings,
and more!
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658
------------------------------
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 00:07:19 -0400
From: Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Looking for Dean Grannes and Stephanie Masumura
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
Hello,
If anyone has contact information for Dean and Stephanie please let
me know. Last address information I have is Fremont, CA.
Thanks,
Chip Gribben
NEDRA
http://www.nedra.com
------------------------------
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 22:08:29 -0700
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Looking for Dean Grannes and Stephanie Masumura
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
HI- Chip, Ino longer have a phone no. for Dean and Stephanie. The last
address I have is the Fremont one.
Do you know if Brian Serra is on the Lawless Ind. team or do you have a
phone no. Shawn Lawless?
-FT.
> [Original Message]
> From: Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Date: 9/18/2007 9:12:46 PM
> Subject: [EVDL] Looking for Dean Grannes and Stephanie Masumura
>
> Hello,
>
> If anyone has contact information for Dean and Stephanie please let
> me know. Last address information I have is Fremont, CA.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chip Gribben
> NEDRA
> http://www.nedra.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 01:20:14 -0600
From: "Derek Barger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] killacycle crash - High quality video
To: "Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Electric
Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
It will be at Bandimere is not public for this show. No one else will
be allowed in as far as I have heard. That way they can control
everything including noise. The TV show has rented the place for the 2
days of shooting with the 2 teams. I don't know the exact schedule but
if it is anything like the other TV production we have been in, more
than likely it will be a lot of waiting around for different shots.
Hurry up and wait.
Derek
On 9/18/07, Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Derek,
> Are you racing at Bandimere, and will it be open to the public?
> Thanks,
> BB
>
> >Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 23:30:35 -0600
> >From: "Derek Barger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> >We are racing against a gas powered drag bike for a show. It would be
> >nice to beat the other team if possible. It is not just who finishes
> >first but they are looking at other aspects. Such as how well we apply
> >the torque to the ground in the first 60ft. Hopefully they will have
> >some cool high speed camera going like Myth Busters. To see how well
> >our launches are. How fast we are in the pits compared to gas powered
> >equipment. We are going to be doing some fast charging. It is easier
> >to dump gas in a fuel tank but with the Rudman charger we hope to be
> >just as fast. At least it will be less fumes and mess than normal
> >racing fuel and less expensive.
> >I am hoping that we can prove that electric racing is just as
> >practical or better than an ICE racing program. That might open some
> >eyes.
> >
> >Derek Barger
> >KillaCycle Team
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 11:16:40 +0100
From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] SAFT point of contact
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
On 9/16/07, David Roden (Akron OH USA) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At any rate, here is the info as posted right here in April of this year.
> Pricing for Saft STM nicads is as follows. Hope you're sitting down.
>
> STM5-100MR/MRE - $605.00 ea
Try 700 Euro each, last I heard. That's $970.
I get the impression that they really don't want to build these
batteries any more. Saft UK refuse point blank to give a quote on
them now.
------------------------------
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 07:32:10 -0500
From: "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Wheel Alignment Surprise
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Hi,
I measured kWh before and after adjusting my toe in from 3/8" to 1/8" and
the same 400Wh per mile (no cheating at the AC line) was the same. I
measured over the same 30 mile distance twice for each adjustment and got
12kWh on my AC watt hour meter. The watt hour meter wouldn't detect a
percent or two difference so scrubbing of the tire (I noticed 1" outer wear)
over 4k miles probably takes 10 watts or so per mile but didn't noticeably
effect range *but* dragging brakes sure does have a noticeable effect.
The wheel alignment saga on my 74' 914 Porsche:
Adjusting the toe-in is a trivial task, measuring the front to rear tire
differential and adjusting the tie rods accordingly. Anyway I took it to
the first shop in Roanoke, VA Crescent Heights, left it for the day while I
was at work and then get a call at 12noon saying it's almost finished, then
at 4pm saying they can't "start" it to get it in the garage and to come over
right away. I come over and everyone runs out of the garage! I noticed
that the E-Porsche wouldn't go and upon checking the main 400A fuse with a
meter, I found out it was blown. In the hundreds of thousands of miles I
have been EV'ing I never have blown a main pack fuse. Anyway, they probably
stomped it to the floor to see what it would do so I hitched it up to the
back of my Ford Ranger and towed it home.
Shop number 2, NTB Tire America said on the phone, "sure we can do a toe-in
on an electric Porsche same as any other car". So I dropped it off for the
day and when I came back they hadn't touched it saying they were afraid to
start it or roll it. Appearntly there was a shift change and they didn't
talk to each other.
Shop number 3, Roanoke Auto Spring Works actually *did* the alignment and
said the frame I installed and right rear swing arm welded on was within
caster-camber alignment spec as well. When I picked it up i noticed it was
empty of electrons as they did some highway driving since they thought it
was cool. Just for grins a couple nights ago I checked the toe with a
ruller from center tread, front-rear since the front tires were sawtooth
wearing on the outside 1" portion. I found that it had a toe in of 3/8"! I
adjusted to 1/16-1/8 by turning each tie rod 1/2 turn and tightenned the
nuts back.
Lesson 4: I'll do my alignments in the future and not take my car to
bumpkins..
Have a renewable energy day,
Mark
_________________________________________________________________
A place for moms to take a break!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
------------------------------
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 08:51:57 -0400
From: "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] SAFT point of contact
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Nickel is dying. Li-Ion here we go!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 6:16 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] SAFT point of contact
> On 9/16/07, David Roden (Akron OH USA) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> At any rate, here is the info as posted right here in April of this year.
>> Pricing for Saft STM nicads is as follows. Hope you're sitting down.
>>
>> STM5-100MR/MRE - $605.00 ea
>
> Try 700 Euro each, last I heard. That's $970.
> I get the impression that they really don't want to build these
> batteries any more. Saft UK refuse point blank to give a quote on
> them now.
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:28:22 -0400
From: "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Wheel Alignment Surprise
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
So.. I have to ask...
Why didn't you take it to Porsche of Roanoke? Cost?
--T
------------------------------
Message: 24
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:32:51 -0400
From: "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Trojan 24tm
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
That is listed as a 'Dual Purpose' battery.. which means it has
lighter plates to allow more energy to come out for starting engines.
The technical response to this is "Don't use dual purpose batteries".
That being said, you should ask Trojan about using it in this
application.. Give em a call. They are nice. :)
Hopefully someone here has actually had experience with them, but it's
a longshot.. most folks here use T-105 or an analog of that.
On 9/18/07, Carl Clifford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi List,
>
> Anyone have an opinion on the Trojan 24TM? It's on sale for 129.00 at Gander
> Mountain and I thought I should look into an alternative to the Hawker 1200's
> for my USE S10 since as someone pointed nobody ever saw one with many miles
> on it.
>
> I am going to re-fit it with one string of 312v instead of two. The max
> voltage draw is less than 200v if I undertand correctly so the Hawkers
> probably weren't a good option from that point of view anyway.
>
> My head spins when I try to sort throught all of the batteries Trojan makes,
> so if anyone has another recommendation, that would be great.
>
> Thanks
>
> Carl Clifford
> Denver
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 25
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:38:45 -0400
From: "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery theory + advice on charger
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Yep!
I have 18 BB600s to play with now, and I am going to get 2 good
floodies as well. I'll have a 24V floodie pack and a 21V NiCD pack to
play with then. I can get an inexpensive 24V controller, and a big
nasty resistor as well as a pot, and do some real experiments to test
out the idea of a hybrid pack.
By the way.. Lee (or anyone else!).. what is a good brand/source for a
charger I can use for the NiCD -and- the floodies? Obviously, I don't
need to have anything that is automatic, just be able to control
voltage limit and current limit, etc. so that I can run numbers. In
fact I don't want it to be automatic. Just to have a couple of dials
and meters.
> Experiments always trump talk! Bring on the data! Better yet, do the
> experiments yourself! Remember that many published studies are done to
> promote somebody's product, not to provide "truth". They need to be
> independently verified before they can be accepted as fact.
------------------------------
Message: 26
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 06:54:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery theory + advice on charger
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I've charged my BB600's using an HP6269B power supply,
50V max and 60Amps max. Find one on ebay for a
reasonable price. This gives you lots of flexibility
for a range of battery voltages. I can do constant
current or constant voltage by tweaking the knobs on
the supply.
Rod
--- Timothy Balcer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yep!
>
> I have 18 BB600s to play with now, and I am going to
> get 2 good
> floodies as well. I'll have a 24V floodie pack and a
> 21V NiCD pack to
> play with then. I can get an inexpensive 24V
> controller, and a big
> nasty resistor as well as a pot, and do some real
> experiments to test
> out the idea of a hybrid pack.
>
> By the way.. Lee (or anyone else!).. what is a good
> brand/source for a
> charger I can use for the NiCD -and- the floodies?
> Obviously, I don't
> need to have anything that is automatic, just be
> able to control
> voltage limit and current limit, etc. so that I can
> run numbers. In
> fact I don't want it to be automatic. Just to have a
> couple of dials
> and meters.
>
> > Experiments always trump talk! Bring on the data!
> Better yet, do the
> > experiments yourself! Remember that many published
> studies are done to
> > promote somebody's product, not to provide
> "truth". They need to be
> > independently verified before they can be accepted
> as fact.
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 27
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 07:34:10 -0700
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Chain length calculator.
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/index.html This seems very acurate.
It should be helpful with ebikes, motorcycles & scooters. Lawrence
Rhodes.....
------------------------------
Message: 28
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 10:54:49 -0400
From: "storm connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Cell reversal
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
<ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
If you have a series string of cells, one cell is always at a lower voltage
than the others. If you keep drawing power from the pack each of the cell's
voltage is reduced. Eventually the weakest cell will be reduced below 0
volts. At this point, the negative terminal becomes positive and vice versa.
Lead acid batteries will be permanently damaged. Be careful with them not to
let the voltage of the 12 volt battery go below 10.5v under load. As your
pack gets discharged, watch your voltmeter. Use your right foot gently to
keep the amps low enough not to drop the voltage of the pack below the
minimum. You may have to let the pack rest a bit before proceeding.
On 9/17/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Can someone explain "cell reversal:" Causes, symptoms (how to recognize)
> and
> results. I hear it mentioned frequently, but don't understand.
> Roger Daisley
> Pullman, WA
> http://www.96-volt.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm
------------------------------
Message: 29
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 11:23:09 -0400
From: "storm connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electric Pump for Power Brakes (was Another EV
(Ranger) Grin!)
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I suffered the sticker shock as well. I bought it after buying a GM unit
that turned out to be no good. I don't think there has been anything on the
EV that didn't cause sticker shock. I rationalize it by considering what it
would cost to build a Buick from the parts counter.
FWIW, the only babysitting needed with the charger is to make sure you don't
pop the circuit breaker on the feed when the batteries are low. With the top
voltage around 177v, you are doing a taper charge automatically. After an
hour or so of charging, I turn it all the way up and the amperage keeps
falling. Note it does have a timer so I won't forget it overnight or
something, but a couple extra hours at 1 amp shouldn't hurt anything.
Hoping to make the Oct meeting, but may have to close the NH cottage that
weekend.
On 9/18/07, Dave Oliveria <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Storm,
>
> Just checked out Summit Racing and their electic Vacuum Pump for
> brakes. Wow, $330 for the kit not counting shipping and any taxes? That's
> a bit higher than I was expecting. I was considering a used pulley vacuum
> pump, electric motor, pressure switch and reservoir. I was budgeting around
> $150 or so for the all the parts. A kit offers one-stop shopping with most
> of the labor already done for you but the sticker shock still lingers!
>
> Since driving my EV around town I'm becoming quite good at stopping with
> lots of pressure. I haven't resorted to both feet yet (as Bob Rice
> suggests) but I may come to that in an emergency!
>
> I checked out your website on your poorman's charger and it looks like a
> great idea! As I mentioned on your blog, though, I'm looking for a
> plug-n-charge approach to recharging. I've been using Bob Rice's Monster
> Charger for two weeks now and I find myself babysitting it; adusting the
> volts every so often, etc.
>
> Are you coming down for the next NEEAA meeting? We can talk more then
> about these things.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dave
>
> PS: I bought an IOTA DC/DC for the 12v but just haven't found the place
> to install nor connect it up yet.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: storm connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 4:29:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Another EV (Ranger) Grin!
>
>
> Have you looked at the electric vacuum pump from Summit Racing?
>
> There is also an on board charger installation on my blog. It puts out
> 177v
> so it is good for a boost, but not quite enough for a full charge- but it
> cost < $25. Also, if money is an issue, I've had good luck with my laptop
> power supply for charging the 12V battery.
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm
------------------------------
Message: 30
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 08:29:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Oliveria <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Bob/Roland,
Thanks for your replies. To answer your questions:
- my amp shunt is on the battery side (24 x 6v = 144v system of Interstate
2200's; T105 equiv).
- I've checked all battery connections immediately after driving and all are
still cool to the touch
- Motor cables from the controller are the only warm ones
- All traction battery cabling is 2/0 with soldered connections
- motor isn't scalding hot so probably okay (ADC motor drawing says sensor
closes at 120C)
- I'll connect the sensor up to something to light up remotely in the cab
- I don't have a tach connected yet so have not been going high in RPMs
- my DCP controller takes a tach input and output can go to my instrument
cluster
- I'm currently trying to locate a 2 pulse/rev tach sensor to connect up
- good to know that higher RPM (but less then 6,000) is better
Thanks,
Dave
----- Original Message ----
From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 12:09:40 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ranger Conversion Amps & Warm Motor Okay?
Dave, I'm afraid I'm missing a couple of vital pieces.
a) If you are pulling that many battery amps from
floodies, not good.
If you are talking controller amps to the motor,
you're going to be okay, especially if you're talking
about the 400-450 from a dead stop only, and not
constant.
The other thing is that the motors are made to really
heat up to the touch. They have insulation, and are
built to specs such that they can handle it.
Obviously, you haven't given us _specific_ temps, but
you never described it as "burning hot omigosh, OUCH!"
so I'm going to say it sounds like mine, which is 3200
lbs., and 8" armature.
peace,
--- Dave Oliveria <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Good EVening, EVeryone;
>
> I have two questions about what's typical in amp
> draw and a warm motor when I drive. I just got my
> Ranger EV conversion to run two Mondays ago. Since
> then I've been taking several runs including longer
> drives to determine range.
>
> Q1 - I'm noticing that I seem to consistently draw
> from 200 to 450 amps in each gear (2nd, 3rd, 4th) to
> get up to speed and in climbing hills (and sometimes
> I'm still not going the posted speed limit). I
> appear to maintain 50mph at 100amps. Is this
> normal?
>
> Q2 - My 9" ADC motor smells like it's warming up the
> windings after each trip. I've felt for temp and
> it's been warm. Today it was down right hot to the
> touch after a 8-mile trip to town and back. I put a
> meter on the temp switch pigtails after I got home
> to make sure that they weren't closed (indicating a
> high-temp condition). Is this high temp thing
> normal?
>
> Thanks for your guidance in advance!
>
> Dave "Still EV Grinning" O
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? For $20 DVD you can purchase footage of my
'92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at: www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings,
and more!
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 31
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 11:32:58 -0400
From: "storm connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] San Francisco visit
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Any San Franciscans there?
On 9/16/07, storm connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I am flying out to San Francisco next Sunday. I will be at the Westin-St.
> Francis until Thursday morning. Any suggestions? I am working 9-5 but
> perhaps some EVers would like to get together for dinner?
>
> --
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
> http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
> Storm
--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm
------------------------------
Message: 32
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 08:30:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [EVDL] Russco Charger On Ebay
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Russco chargers occasionally appear on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/RUSSCO-Electric-Vehicle-Car-SC-18-120-Charger-NR_W0QQitemZ270166031684QQihZ017QQcategoryZ48618QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
This charger is currently just shy of $300. New price is $690. I know
nothing about this particular charger nor its seller.
Russ Kaufmann
RUSSCO Engineering
http://www.russcoev.com
The Other PFC Charger With Built In GFCI
------------------------------
Message: 33
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:35:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Slow Traffic
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hi David and all,
I have been getting unusually low volume of posts
lately. I see responses to posts I never saw. I use
a simple yahoo account with no filters or spam guards.
Is something screwed up or is just slow?
Jeff M
____________________________________________________________________________________
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for
today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
------------------------------
Message: 34
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 10:50:40 -0600
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electric Pump for Power Brakes (was Another EV
(Ranger)Grin!)
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
----- Original Message -----
From: "storm connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electric Pump for Power Brakes (was Another EV
(Ranger)Grin!)
> I suffered the sticker shock as well. I bought it after buying a GM unit
> that turned out to be no good. I don't think there has been anything on
> the
> EV that didn't cause sticker shock. I rationalize it by considering what
> it
> would cost to build a Buick from the parts counter.
>
> > Just checked out Summit Racing and their electic Vacuum Pump for
> > brakes. Wow, $330 for the kit not counting shipping and any taxes?
> > That's
> > a bit higher than I was expecting. I was considering a used pulley
> > vacuum
> > pump, electric motor, pressure switch and reservoir. I was budgeting
> > around
> > $150 or so for the all the parts. A kit offers one-stop shopping with
> > most
> > of the labor already done for you but the sticker shock still lingers!
> >
> > Since driving my EV around town I'm becoming quite good at stopping with
> > lots of pressure. I haven't resorted to both feet yet (as Bob Rice
It is best to set up a relationship with a independent auto parts dealer if
you can fine one. I been going to the same auto parts store for now about
47 years now. These type of dealers can get you any type of part made from
who ever you want.
Also a Auto World store is a good one that has these type of performance
parts, that I also use on a EV.
I purchase a belt driven GMC vacuum pump from them for about $80.00 which
was listed at about $150.00 at the GM dealer. I did all the leg work, find
out what the part number is, and make the supply run with a purchase order
from the auto parts store to pick up the item.
Then for a motor, get a 12 volt motor from Summit or Jegs that is about
$55.00 or you can get the motor, with mounting brackets, pullys and etc for
about $80.00.
Roland
------------------------------
Message: 35
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 10:46:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Test
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Just seeing if this thing works. Sorry.
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------------------------------
Message: 36
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 11:10:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Test
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hey Jeff
Reading you loud and clear here. Volume on the list
has been super light on my end also.
Cya
Jim Husted
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------------------------------
Message: 37
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 11:27:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Test
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Jim,
I don't think it is working quite right.
Glad you're still out there.
Jeff
--- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey Jeff
>
> Reading you loud and clear here. Volume on the list
> has been super light on my end also.
>
> Cya
> Jim Husted
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! -
> their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo!
> Games.
> http://sims.yahoo.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
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> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
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End of EV Digest, Vol 2, Issue 50
*********************************
