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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Interesting Calculations from Ian Wright ON BIG Pick-Up
Trucks (Doug Weathers)
2. Re: Interesting Calculations from Ian Wright ON BIG Pick-Up
Trucks (Peter VanDerWal)
3. Re: Optima Trials and Tribulations (Peter VanDerWal)
4. Re: 14-50 with a handle! (Keith Richtman)
5. Re: Baldor Motor ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
6. Re: wanted: accessory battery recommendation (Roland Wiench)
7. Re: Optima Trials and Tribulations (John G. Lussmyer)
8. Re: What can I use a 600lb induction motor for? (Lee Hart)
9. Re: 14-50 with a handle! (Lee Hart)
10. Re: Interesting Calculations from Ian Wright ON BIG Pick-Up
Trucks (Lee Hart)
11. Re: Interesting Calculations from Ian Wright ON BIG Pick-Up
Trucks (storm connors)
12. Re: Optima Trials and Tribulations (Ralph Merwin)
13. Re: KillaCycle at Pomona, Finally!!! (Jim Husted)
14. Re: wanted: accessory battery recommendation (storm connors)
15. Re: Optima Trials and Tribulations (John G. Lussmyer)
16. Re: 14-50 with a handle! (Roland Wiench)
17. Re: What can I use a 600lb induction motor for?
(William Brinsmead)
18. Re: KillaCycle at Pomona, Finally!!! (and Honda brakes)
(Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins)
19. Re: new cars 2008 (keith vansickle)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 08:29:02 -0700
From: Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Interesting Calculations from Ian Wright ON BIG
Pick-Up Trucks
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
On Nov 8, 2007, at 9:47 AM, Steven Lough wrote:
> Mr. Wright thinks
> poster-child green-tech vehicles like the Toyota Prius are a dead-end
> compared to pickups.
This analysis ignores the fact that the work to make the Prius more
efficient HAS ALREADY BEEN DONE. You don't need to do ANYTHING to make
the Prius more efficient than a pickup truck. That's why people buy
them.
I agree that an effort to make other vehicles more efficient will pay
big dividends, but this doesn't imply that the effort already expended
on the "dead-end" Prius was wasted. The Prius is already paying back
the dividends earned!
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
http://www.gdunge.com/
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 09:48:23 -0700 (MST)
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Interesting Calculations from Ian Wright ON BIG
Pick-Up Trucks
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
It's a combination of both.
I assume by spirited you mean fast acceleration. The quicker you
accelerate, the more energy it takes. You also spend more time at high
speeds when you accelerate quickly (I.e. you get to 65 sooner, so spend
more of the distance traveling at 65 vs 30,35,40,45, etc.)
The more time you spend at speed, the more aero drag you have (unrecoverable)
If you accelerate quickly and then brake hard, you are wasting energy (vs
gliding), even regen won't get all of it back.
Plus, of course, Peukert.
> This brings up an interesting observation I have had about EV's that may
> be an issue with new converts.
>
> The EV wastes 10-20% of the energy on board and uses 80-90% while an ICE
> wastes about 75% and puts 25% to the road.
> I wonder if this effects when you drive spirited in an EV; it seems to
> effect the mileage a lot more.
>
> I have often wondered if this is purely the pukert effect and goes away
> with advanced chemistries or if it is somehow related to the the way the
> majority of energy gets converted to motive force in an ev and the
> majority of energy gets converted to heat in an ICE.
>
> I also have a rather low range EV and dislike the degrading performance
> as it goes from charged to empty. It use to be better, but I messed
> something up. I think my motor's torque constant is a poor match for my
> gear ratios,(warp9 in 300zx, stock tranny) it "lugs" in second drawing
> too many amps off the line and bucks in first because first is too low.
> It seems to start accelerating nicely after 3000rpm, I can feel an
> increase in acceleration with my buttometer. I used to get 350wh/mile
> now I get 425. I just haven't found out what changed when I put it back
> together. I know this seems like a brush timeing issue, but I have
> played with it.
>
> Does anyone have the torque constants for a warp 9 motor? is it
> different than an ADC FB-4001? It actually looks like an 8" ADC has
> better torque off the line than a 9".
>
> I realize that I don't need the rpm that the warp 9 is capable of and a
> little more low end grunt may be more efficient. Can this be easily
> changed?
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
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legalistic signature is void.
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 09:50:29 -0700 (MST)
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Optima Trials and Tribulations
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Hmm, I thought maybe he was just seeing a capacitor charging (i.e. no real
load)
> John, sounds like you were measuring AC mA to me. My
> Fluke 87 (one of the early ones) is at home, so I
> can't confirm, but I seem to remember when you rotate
> the knob to measure current, it is by default AC
> current and you have to push the orange "shift" button
> to get it to measure DC current.
>
> - Steven Ciciora
>
>
> --- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> From: John G. Lussmyer
>> > So I checked a random reg with my Fluke 87 meter.
>> > Hook the reg up, and the current jumps up to mA
>> and then starts
>> > dropping, and continues dropping.
>> > After a minute or two, it was down to 0.2uA!
>>
>> John, that can't be correct. What model regs do you
>> have? The early ones all had an LM358 which draws a
>> couple milliamps of supply current, plus a few
>> resistors that add a bit more. The later regs have a
>> lotmore parts, so I would expect them to draw even
>> more.
>>
>> --
>> "Excellence does not require perfection." -- Henry
>> James
>> --
>> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
>> leeahart-at-earthlink.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> For subscription options, see
>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
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------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 10:06:43 -0500
From: Keith Richtman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 14-50 with a handle!
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
On 11/9/07 7:15 AM, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=14-50+with+a+handle&searchbtn.x=12&searchbtn.y=12
Nice find Lawrence! The manufacturer, Camco, sells the plugs separately
(p/n 55255), though the the online retailers sell the plug alone for
about the same price as the assembled adapter at JC Whitney.
<http://www.camco.net/Menu.cfm?SupCategoryId=10000&SubCategoryId=223&ProductId=2539>
Keith
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 08:18:53 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Baldor Motor
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
Jeff,
That is actually a larger motor. Mine is shorter and not as wide.
Mine is only 15 or so inches long not including the shaft. 17 or so
inches including the shaft. May be close but the one pictured is for
sure larger than mine. By the way, that is the first one I found.
Specs will be sketchy until I can actually come up with another
baldor motor with every thing intact.
Pete
On Nov 9, 2007, at 7:57 AM, Jeff Major wrote:
>
> Pete,
>
> Might be the spec for the Baldor?
>
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/tech/
>
> Jeff
>
>
> --- gottdi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>
>> I am rebuilding an older electric vehicle and
>> putting it back on the road. It
>> is a 67 Datsun Bluebird 4 door sedan. It was
>> converted years ago and used in
>> San Francisco for many years. The little car has a
>> Baldor motor installed
>> but no information tags remain on the motor. The
>> motor has been removed but
>> will be reinstalled soon. I have looked at the motor
>> and brush areas and
>> even hooked up 12v to see if it works. I was told it
>> did not. It does at
>> least with 12v. All looks clean and does not smell
>> of burnt motor. I know
>> that smell anywhere. I was wanting to know if
>> someone here on this list is
>> using a baldor motor and could pass along some
>> information. It looks like a
>> very good motor. Clean and no rust anywhere on the
>> motor. Here is my photo
>> album of the motor.
>>
>> www.inertext.homeunix.com/baldor
>>
>> I am still unsure of what advancing the motor is for
>> and if any motor can be
>> advanced or only some? Not all of my information is
>> here yet so I am doing
>> this slowly. I have the ability but I do need to go
>> through the learning
>> curve. I did that with my VW TDI.
>>
>> www.inertext.homeunix.com/newlife
>>
>> That is the photo album of my TDI.
>>
>> I am thinking of zilla for my controller but some
>> have said it's a 6 month
>> wait. Yuck!. Ok, what about curtis or Alltrack? Or ?
>> Is there more?
>>
>> What about chargers? I do plan on Optima Yellow
>> tops. Price is not an issue.
>>
>> I know it's alot but I need the info.
>>
>> Thanks a bunch
>> Pete
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 09:36:25 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] wanted: accessory battery recommendation
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello Michael,
My accessory battery in my EV has now been running now for 6 years. It is a
Trojan deep cycle 12 volt that has a 225 minutes reserved capacity at 25
amps which is about half the reserved capacity of a T-106 that has 447
minutes reserved at 25 amps.
This battery also has 820 cranking amps at 32F. It is larger then a
standard 12 volt battery which is 13.38 L by 9.75 H by 6.75 W.
A accessory battery should be require to deliver the required current while
maintain its voltage above 11 volts. Should be capable of delivering 50
amperes without excessive voltage drop.
To charge this type of battery, you need a regulated DC power supply that
has a output between 11 volts and 15 volts and can deliver the required
current continuous use. A starting battery are normally rated by cranking
amps which is not the rating for continuous use.
The charging system for a deep cycle battery use as a accessory battery
should be at least 25% of the ampere-hour capacity of your battery. If you
have a 200 ampere-hour battery, the charging system should be able to
deliver 50 amperes.
If you are use a DC-DC converter, than you must have it at 14.8 volts for
charging and than it should be able to drop back to a float voltage of 14
volts.
Standard alternators with a fix regulator may only charge from 13.5 to 14.5
volts for cranking type of batteries. A DC-DC converter is fine for use as
a power supply, but may not have the voltage to charge a deep cycle battery
for short charge periods.
This is the problem I had. My standard cranking type battery with a DC-DC
power supply and standard alternator, there was not enough charging time for
the battery if I only drove 1 mile at a time and had to charge it with the
onboard main battery charger which also had a 12 volt charge circuit.
I therefore install a Trojan 12v SCS 225 deep cycle battery. I also had to
change the alternator and remove the DC-DC converter off this circuit. I
later use four IOTA DC-DC converters that are crank up to 14.8 volts, that I
now only use to run my accessory motors. Do not use them to charge the
battery other wise it will cook the batteries.
A typical engine alternator may not be able to meet the requirements if a
large capacity battery is use. Alternators are typically rated for the
current they can deliver when they are cold. Many alternators cannot
produce over 13.6 volts when they are hot and a 100 ampere alternator may
only deliver 50 amps when they are hot.
I therefore use a heavy duty high-output alternator that is used in RV's,
utility trucks and semi-trucks that have to charge banks of deep cycles
batteries. They have a external regulator adjustment, where you can adjust
the voltage from 13.6 to 16 volts which will drop to the float level if the
batteries are charge.
A delivery truck that does a lot of short distance driving will have the
voltage to 16 volts or if you have a over the road long distance rig, then a
lower voltage is selected.
The wire must be size that runs from the DC-DC converter or alternator. The
existing No. 10 or pair No. 10 wire that ran from your alternator circuit
will have to be increase to keep the voltage drop above 10 volts.
According to my engineering handbook. A DC cable with 200 amps at 12 volts
will require to be a No. 3/0 AWG for a distance of 10 feet to maintain a
volt drop not less than 2 volts. I am only run 100 amps maximum, so I am
using a No. 1 AWG cable.
If you are using a alternator, be sure to use the small alternator pulley
which may be about 2 to 2.5 inch diameter and a large 6 inch or more on the
drive. A engine normally idles at 500 rpm, so this makes the alternator
rpm at about 1500. A alternator needs at least 1100 rpm for it to be
excited.
A EV normally may start out at 1 rpm, and the alternator will not kick in
until you get to a higher rpm. This is where my DC-DC converters is used at
this lower rpm. When the alternator comes up to excitation, then it
provides the accessory power, plus provides REGEN power by the kinetic
energy provided by the motor during the coast down periods.
During the coast down periods. My motor and battery ampere is 0 amps. The
DC-DC converters are at 0-amps drawing no power from the main battery pack,
but my alternator is now providing all the accessory load at this time using
kinetic energy.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 6:29 AM
Subject: [EVDL] wanted: accessory battery recommendation
> Like to get some recommendations on a GOOD accessory battery - pretty
> sure mine is
> going south. When the headlights are on and the electric vacuum pump
> kicks in, the radio
> blinks out - and forget about when the heater is on...!!! I'd rather
> pay a bit more for something that will last and can handle the
> load....
>
> Thx, Mike
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 08:55:29 -0800
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Optima Trials and Tribulations
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Steven Ciciora wrote:
> John, sounds like you were measuring AC mA to me. My
> Fluke 87 (one of the early ones) is at home, so I
> can't confirm, but I seem to remember when you rotate
> the knob to measure current, it is by default AC
> current and you have to push the orange "shift" button
> to get it to measure DC current.
>
Ding! Give the man a cigar! You were exactly correct.
This morning I went out WITH a pair of glasses this time, and checked my
meter. It did default to AC current.
So I switched it to DC and checked again.
2.38ma draw. Still darn tiny.
Also, I've been doing some experiments (evil laugh here) on my batteries.
Since they all seem to indicate being Not full, I've been putting my
bench supply on each one in turn. Set to 14.8V, and leave it on for a
couple of hours. This generally ends with a 0.6A charge rate.
I did that on 3 batteries yesterday, so it's been 12-18 hours since they
were on the charger/supply.
12.98, 12.94, 12.98 are the readings. Still seem a bit low.
(Note: Since I still have my completely DEAD pack of Optimas, I'm trying
the reforming trick someone mentioned. I've hooked up a bench supply
and set it for 4A current limit. It started at around 11V and sat there
for a long time. It's now up at 12.1V after about 16 hours. It'll be
interesting to see if it ever goes higher.)
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 09:14:51 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] What can I use a 600lb induction motor for?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Zeke Yewdall wrote:
> http://darkforestcreature.com/photos/Motors.JPG
> There's an old abandoned mine near my house, with lots of old
> 1940/50's era trucks, air compressors, a giant turbodiesel generator,
> and lots of big old motors. This picture is of one of the largest
> motors. 75HP, 3 phase, about 2 and a half feet in diameter. Designed
> to drive an air compressor via 15 V-belts.
Old electric motors were larger for a number of reasons. Wire insulation
wasn't as good, so they couldn't let them get as hot as modern motors.
This meant a much larger size and much more cooling was needed to keep
the temperature down. There have also been many incremental advances in
bearings, magnetic materials, and other details.
For stationary applications, weight is a virtue, so there was no attempt
to save material. Also keep in mind that this 75 HP motor could deliver
that amount of power continuously, 24 hours a day for many decades!
When high power-to-weight and high temperature operation was a
requirement, they *could* build high performance motors in the 1940-50's
-- they just cost a lot more. For example, look at the aircraft
starters and generators of the period.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 09:28:30 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 14-50 with a handle!
To: Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Electric Vehicle
Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=14-50+with+a+handle&searchbtn.x=12&searchbtn.y=12
Neat! I wonder if Camco (the manufacturer?) sells just the cord ends.
Somehow, I have little desire for a cord with a 30-amp 3-pin plug on one
end and a 50-amp 4-pin on the other end!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 09:56:16 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Interesting Calculations from Ian Wright ON BIG
Pick-Up Trucks
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> The EV wastes 10-20% of the energy on board and uses 80-90% while
> an ICE wastes about 75% and puts 25% to the road. I wonder if this
> effects when you drive spirited in an EV; it seems to effect the
> mileage a lot more.
>
> I have often wondered if this is purely the Peukert effect and goes
> away with advanced chemistries...
EV efficiency remains high over a broad range of speeds. While the
motor, controller, and battery efficiency might peak at 80-90% at 10 HP,
it only falls to 70-80% at 1 HP or 100 HP.
What happens with high speed, spirited driving is that
a) You need more horsepower, so the energy usage per mile is higher.
For example, you might need 250 WH/mile at 30 mph, but 500 WH/mile
at 70 mph.
b) The Peukert effect means your lead-acid batteries provide less
energy per charge. At high power you may only get 10 KWH from a
20 KWH lead-acid pack, but it also needs only 11 KWH to fully
recharge it. The battery's energy efficiency is about the same;
The other 10 KWH is still there; you just can't get at it at high
discharge currents.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 12:31:32 -0500
From: "storm connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Interesting Calculations from Ian Wright ON BIG
Pick-Up Trucks
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
"bucks in first because first is too low." What does this mean? If I
use low gear the only effect is to approach the red line on the motor
quickly. I've never experienced anything I could characterize as
"bucking" in an electric.
storm
On Nov 9, 2007 8:47 AM, Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> This brings up an interesting observation I have had about EV's that may
> be an issue with new converts.
>
> The EV wastes 10-20% of the energy on board and uses 80-90% while an ICE
> wastes about 75% and puts 25% to the road.
> I wonder if this effects when you drive spirited in an EV; it seems to
> effect the mileage a lot more.
>
> I have often wondered if this is purely the pukert effect and goes away
> with advanced chemistries or if it is somehow related to the the way the
> majority of energy gets converted to motive force in an ev and the
> majority of energy gets converted to heat in an ICE.
>
> I also have a rather low range EV and dislike the degrading performance
> as it goes from charged to empty. It use to be better, but I messed
> something up. I think my motor's torque constant is a poor match for my
> gear ratios,(warp9 in 300zx, stock tranny) it "lugs" in second drawing
> too many amps off the line and bucks in first because first is too low.
> It seems to start accelerating nicely after 3000rpm, I can feel an
> increase in acceleration with my buttometer. I used to get 350wh/mile
> now I get 425. I just haven't found out what changed when I put it back
> together. I know this seems like a brush timeing issue, but I have
> played with it.
>
> Does anyone have the torque constants for a warp 9 motor? is it
> different than an ADC FB-4001? It actually looks like an 8" ADC has
> better torque off the line than a 9".
>
> I realize that I don't need the rpm that the warp 9 is capable of and a
> little more low end grunt may be more efficient. Can this be easily changed?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 09:45:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Optima Trials and Tribulations
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
John G. Lussmyer writes:
>
> Also, I've been doing some experiments (evil laugh here) on my batteries.
> Since they all seem to indicate being Not full, I've been putting my
> bench supply on each one in turn. Set to 14.8V, and leave it on for a
> couple of hours. This generally ends with a 0.6A charge rate.
> I did that on 3 batteries yesterday, so it's been 12-18 hours since they
> were on the charger/supply.
> 12.98, 12.94, 12.98 are the readings. Still seem a bit low.
Now would be a good time to do the "2 amps for an hour, voltage unregulated"
phase on one of these batteries. Note that the voltage may go as high as
17.5v. Watch the temperature and stop the cycle if the battery starts over
heating. Let them rest "a while" afterwards and then recheck the voltage.
Ralph
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 09:47:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] KillaCycle at Pomona, Finally!!!
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hey Bill, crew
Hopefully all the issues are now behind you and that
you find the 7's and the trip well worth the effort.
Best wishes
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 12:56:01 -0500
From: "storm connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] wanted: accessory battery recommendation
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Ebay #190170569185 for instance.
storm
On Nov 9, 2007 10:43 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> What's a lotas?
>
>
>
> On Nov 9, 2007, at 7:29 AM, storm connors wrote:
>
> > 55 Amp Iotas are on Ebay for under $150. I coupled one with a small
> > sealed lead acid battery. It holds the battery at 13.6 v all the time.
> > It is not wired thru the ignition switch. So far it is working nicely.
> > storm
> >
> > On Nov 9, 2007 10:01 AM, John G. Lussmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >> Zeke Yewdall wrote:
> >>> amps usually. Why not use a 12 volt golf cart battery, just like
> >>> you'd use for a traction pack. Or a Concorde SunXtender deep cycle
> >>> AGM (that's what I'm planning for mine). It can't handle high
> >>> currents from starting an ICE (though I did use a 30AH Concorde
> >>> in my
> >>> ICE car for a while when the SLI battery died), but it'll handle
> >>> cycling, which starter batteries hate, alot better.
> >>>
> >>
> >> Then, since you are choosing an expensive battery, why not just use a
> >> DC-DC and stop worrying about it?
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> For subscription options, see
> >> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
> > http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
> > Storm
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 09:58:40 -0800
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Optima Trials and Tribulations
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Ralph Merwin wrote:
> Now would be a good time to do the "2 amps for an hour, voltage unregulated"
> phase on one of these batteries. Note that the voltage may go as high as
> 17.5v. Watch the temperature and stop the cycle if the battery starts over
> heating. Let them rest "a while" afterwards and then recheck the voltage.
>
I've actually done that a couple of weeks ago on all the batteries.
One thing on my recent 14.8V charging. One of the batteries was
crackling (just barely audible) when the charge was done.
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:10:39 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 14-50 with a handle!
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>, "Lawrence
Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
If you go to a RV dealer, they have all combinations of theses cord ends.
There is a 15 or 20 amp 120 volt plug to 50 amp 3 and 4 wire adapters that
are also listed.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Electric Vehicle
Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 14-50 with a handle!
> Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> > http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=14-50+with+a+handle&searchbtn.x=12&searchbtn.y=12
>
> Neat! I wonder if Camco (the manufacturer?) sells just the cord ends.
> Somehow, I have little desire for a cord with a 30-amp 3-pin plug on one
> end and a 50-amp 4-pin on the other end!
>
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 10:26:14 -0800
From: William Brinsmead <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] What can I use a 600lb induction motor for?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Speaking of big motors check this one out, I still haven't been able to
get any info on it , railroad, big diesel welder,
et. any clues. Weighs 1100 lbs. and looks to handle many kilo amps with
it's double ended armature.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/preview.php?vid=1120
------------------------------
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 12:25:33 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: "Dave (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] KillaCycle at Pomona, Finally!!! (and Honda
brakes)
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
All,
It's good to hear from Bill this AM, as I was about to post a new "Where's
KillaCycle" thread (like Dave Stensland did last year when I hauled the bike
from Illinois to Maryland). Bill's post reminded me of the trip back from
Woodburn in '02. We were all in a hurry to get back, and his van started
leaking coolant (or was that drinking?), and then as we got closer to home (or
the barn!), the trailer tire blew out with Dave Stensland at the helm! Although
Bill asked me to ride shot-gun on this trip (Derek and Steve couldn't make it),
I stayed on the home front to, among other things, cut and split firewood, and
replace the brakes on my daughter's gas Honda (yes, although she grew up
driving an EV, she has gone to the dark side!). It's never unEVentful when
traveling with Bill, and I'm still kicking myself for not going to the land of
the fruits and nuts with him! I'm also reminded of the return trip from Lost
Wages, when John Bryan, Dave, and myself, were now known as "the thr!
ee chair monkeys", but that's a Stensland story...
Speaking of the Honda brakes, the parts store gave me pads and shoes that were
too big, so I'm wondering if it is common now for an automatic tranny to have
bigger brakes than a standard, or is this unique to the '94 Honda Civic?
Thanks, and Suck Amps for me, 'cause I'm wrenching on gassers,
BB
>Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 01:30:36 -0500
>From: Bill Dube
>
>At 9:30 PM I arrived at Pomona with the KillaCycle after a very
>LOOONG and expensive trip from Denver.
>
>On the Colorado Utah border, I replaced the fuel filter, hoping that
>it would repair my ailing 1986 F-350 6.9 Cummins. Nope.
>
>In Parowan Utah, the truck wouldn't do more than 40 MPH, so, with the
>very hospitable help of the Napa store owner, David, we replaced the
>lift pump.
>
>In Las Vegas, again down to 45 mph, I chanced upon J&S Diesel
>Service. James Martinez diagnosed the problem in about 15 minutes. I
>needed a new injection pump.
>
>$1500 later, the truck is running better than it ever did, but the
>water pump is starting to seep anti-freeze. Running at night, at 55
>mph, with the heater on full to keep the temp below 210 F, I made it
>to Pomona!.
------------------------------
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 11:38:40 -0800 (PST)
From: keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] new cars 2008
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
WHERE DID YOU GET THE "ALL IN ONE" ASSEMBLY ?
sorry for the caps lock i really was not shouting
--maybe jumping for joy though if the package you
allude to is any good and not toooooo expensive. tell
more
see you at EVS-23
--- Jukka J???rvinen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yes, but due the same integrated design vehicle
> technology is mostly on
> Can-buses and fast connects. That in other hand
> makes them fast to
> convert mechanically na dthen it's just cracking the
> SW from there.
>
> I'm actually having fun with my BMW 530i -05. I can
> now put wipes and
> blinkers on .. remotely :)
>
> It takes 2 hours to take the motor out and
> disassemble the entire front
> of the car. Then slipping in the predesigned
> battery-pack-motor-and-controller-all-in-one block
> takes another 2
> hours. Maybe even 3 if not in hurry.
>
> Currently I'm going through several different
> layouts on the front pack
> to have best setup for cooling and collisions.
>
> -Jukka
>
>
> David Roden kirjoitti:
> > I know passions often run high on Things
> Automotive - but please try to stay
> > on topic, folks. You can get general rants about
> desigh, quality, and
> > serviceability on any ICE vehicle forum - which is
> where they belong, rather
> > than here.
> >
> > In one sense, we do have to care about modern
> vehicles - because the highly
> > integrated design often makes them difficult to
> convert. We should
> > certainly discuss how to solve these problems.
> >
> > You can avoid them entirely by converting
> venerables (such as old VWs,
> > Ghias, Civics, Datsuns, Rabbits, etc.). They do
> have some advantages as
> > gliders. But then you have a whole different set
> of problems - spares
> > availability, rust (where I live), restoration
> requirements, crashworthiness
> > and occupant protection, etc. And THOSE concerns
> are worth discussing.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> > EVDL Administrator
> >
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> = = = =
> > EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> = = = =
> > Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses
> will not
> > reach me. To send a private message, please
> obtain my
> > email address from the webpage
> http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> = = = =
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
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End of EV Digest, Vol 4, Issue 23
*********************************
