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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Another EV1 soon to be running (Paul)
2. Re: EVs at Wal-Mart (Rick Beebe)
3. Re: Photo Album Suggestion (Jeff Shanab)
4. Conversion video (storm connors)
5. Re: Auburn Kodiak controller info (Jeremy Green)
6. Insulating batteries (Richard Acuti)
7. Re: Different kinds of battery conections (Lee Hart)
8. Re: Insulating batteries (Roland Wiench)
9. Re: Simovert Parameters (tehben)
10. Re: Conversion video (Bob Bath)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 15:38:37 -0800
From: Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Another EV1 soon to be running
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
On Dec 14, 2007, at 8:39 PM, Jim Husted wrote:
> The University of Missouri-Rolla recieved their
> modified Impulse9 motor today. It maybe old school
> but I was pretty happy with how it came out and proud
> to have been a part in getting another EV1 up and
> running 8^) I just posted pics and a blog about
> shortening it from 13.7" to 12.125 so it'd fit.
What have you done?
>
> Now I got to wait for Winter break to end before I get
> to see if EVerything fits! Anyway there's pics up for
> those who'd like a look see here:
What have YOU done?
>
> http://hitorqueelectric.com/
>
> Like I said in my blog, I'm an old motor slut and am
> willing to put my motor into just about anything...
> this one was pretty sexy though 8^o
> Hope you enjoy 8^) No AC motor hate mail now 8^P
So I shouldn't make comments like, "You took the 'hammer and sickle'
to that motor." LMAO
Actually, that cool. It looks like we might be able to get an idea of
the EV1 range as a DC EV. That is quite a motor shortening too. I
would never have expected you could take another 1-1/2 inches out an
an already short 9". Are you sure you didn't press the armature
instead of the shaft?
Paul Gooch
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 10:32:40 -0500
From: Rick Beebe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EVs at Wal-Mart
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
This press release says you can buy one at Sams Club (an arm of
Wal-Mart) in a limited release Christmas package.
http://pressroom.samsclub.com/articles/5332.aspx
--Rick
Ryan Stotts wrote:
> One of the more bolder statements I've ever read since they state it
> as so matter of fact, and the very first sentence too no doubt.
> Seeing as how "Hybrid Technologies" is involved; it's likely just more
> press release type material.
>
>
> "Walk into a Wal-Mart in the not-too-distant future and among the
> thousands of products for sale will be an electric car."
>
>
> http://editorial.autos.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=440939
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 08:15:15 -0800
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Photo Album Suggestion
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Ah ha! I was playing with the buttons under site navigation and search
does nothing but scroll to the top(probably the popup blocker), didn't
see the button across the top. Thanks
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 11:19:12 -0500
From: "storm connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Conversion video
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I just got Steve Clunn's video and wish I had it before! How to make
your own adapters, installing batteries and lots of clever ideas. No
matter how much experience you have, I'll bet you will learn
something. How to get things right without a lot of sophisticated
tools and measuring devices. Sort of reminds me of one of my all time
favorite shows, The Woodright's Shop. 5 thumbs up!
Description here: http://www.cloudelectric.com/inc/sdetail/388
--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 11:21:56 -0500
From: Jeremy Green <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Auburn Kodiak controller info
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
When I had a kodiak in my car, I was a little annoyed with the reverse
too. I connected a tiny relay to the reverse switch that connected a
resistor in parallel with the potbox to reduce the range and make
reverse a little less twitchy.
Unfortunately this doesn't work on my current T-Rex controller because
it doesn't have a potbox...
-Jeremy
On Dec 15, 2007, at 10:29 PM, Deanne Mott wrote:
> Mike,
>
> Interesting stuff. On your first scanned page, it starts off "With the
> change to Processor control..." does this mean there's microcode in
> this beast? Wonder how to tell if you have the later controller, that
> has the slow reverse and all. The really fast reverse is something
> that I've mostly gotten used to, but parallel parking is not something
> I care to do in the EV.
>
> thanks, De
>
>> I have loaded what info I have on Auburns at:
>>
>> http://evalbum.com/tech
>>
>> Thanks,
>> --
>> Mike Chancey,
>> '88 Civic EV
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 11:40:09 -0500
From: Richard Acuti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Insulating batteries
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
In my Bug, I have 3 battery "pods".
The front and rearmost pods are in the trunk and engine compartment where they
are essentially exposed to outside temperatures. The batteries are contained in
"cages" or frames and not "boxes" so much of the battery casing is exposed.
There is absolutely no room inside these cages to slip in any type of
insulation.
Could I (and should I) attach some insulation to the batteries with an
adhesive? Or perhaps to the top and bottom of the cages? Would this add any
value or am I just trying to make myself feel better?Rich
A.Marylandhttp://www.austinev.org/evalbum/371.html
_________________________________________________________________
i?m is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a
difference.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 11:04:13 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Different kinds of battery conections
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Tim Gamber wrote:
> I have a few gold plated ring terminals lying around and would like
> to use them for the high current wiring on the bike.
Gold is used for *low* current contacts. It serves no purpose for high
current contacts, and in fact is worse than silver, copper, and other
metals.
The gold plated ring terminals you have were probably made for cosmetic
purposes. Most of them are actually cheap inferior terminals made of
steel or brass that have been gold plated just to make them look nice.
You can use them if appearance matters more than function. Be aware
though, that you really shouldn't leave your high power wiring exposed
-- it is a safety hazard!
> Is it OK to mix different kinds?
Yes. Electricity is blind. It doesn't care what it looks like! What it
*does* care about is resistance.
The best material for terminals is copper. Since it corrodes easily, it
is usually coated with some other metal to provide corrosion resistance.
The common ones are tin, lead, nickel, silver, and gold.
> Also the bike i have is mostly made of aluminum but there are also
> going to be different kinds of metal on board the bike. Is it
> possible for things like brass, steel, aluminum, or copper to react
> with each other and cause degradation of the frame?
Yes. Any two different metals that touch each other form a battery. If
the junction gets wet with any electrolyte (water containing almost
anything), one of the metals gets oxidized (it rusts, corrodes, etc.)
and the other gets reduced (plates stuff out of the liquid).
The various metals can be ranked on a scale, called the "electromotive
series". Here are some common metals:
magnesium (easiest to corrode end)
aluminum
zinc
chromium
steel
iron
nickel
lead
stainless steel
bronze
brass
copper
silver
platinum
gold (hardest to corrode end)
The farther apart two metals are in this list, the faster the one at the
top corrodes. Note that gold is the hardest to corrode itself, but
because it is at one end of the scale, it *accelerates* the corrosion
the most for any other metal in contact with it! So, using a gold
terminal on (say) a steel screw is bad.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 10:53:20 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Insulating batteries
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
Hello Richard,
At one time, I had battery boxes made out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plates
that where welded together. There was no insulation on them the first
winter and when brought outside from a 70 degree garage to a 0 F degrees or
lower outside temperature. The batteries would cool to 10 degrees above
ambient temperature in with 4 hours.
My first modification to this battery boxes or will work on a battery racks
is to snap on a battery blanket on the outside of the battery box or rack.
I went to a upholstery shop to get some 3/4 thick soft foam and some
external vinyl material to make these blankets.
I have my own heavy industrial duty sewing machine, I sew panels with the
vinyl on both sides of the foam with about 3 to 4 inches of vinyl flaps on
the edge for snapping this blanket together around you boxes or rack.
I made the sides in once piece so it would wrapped all around and made the
top and bottom piece snap to the side pieces. Make sure if you do this type
of installation, that the top piece over laps the side panels and the side
panels over lap the bottom piece.
Also install one through grommet in the center of the bottom piece to let
the water to drain out. If there is a large temperature change of lets say 0
F. ambient air and the batteries are at 70 F. There may be condensation and
this grommet hole lets it drain out. You can put in a plastic drain tubing
to direct away the water.
You can also take some of that small heat tape that has a metal shield over
it and install it to the inside of the insulated battery blanket.
I first sandwich this tape between two layers of 3-M vinyl black electrical
tape that you can get from 2 to 4 inches wide. I then sew this the heating
tape to another layer of vinyl on the bottom piece which is grommet together
with the insulation blanket so the water will run out. You can install this
type of heat tape on the sides if it is required, and just plug the bottom
heating unit to the side heater unit.
Normally if you get the thermostat units for this heat tape, it will only
take the temperature to 40 degrees to keep water from freezing. This still
work for me, because my distance is short and I always kept my batteries
above 70% SOS.
When it was very cold, like -35 F. I would charge the batteries 2 or 4
hours before I leave which will warm them up in this insulated box from 60
F. to 78 F. I had to climb a 7 to 8 percent hill to work every morning for
a two mile run at 400 to 600 amps, which warm up the batteries. Many times,
the heat tape would not kick in because my battery temperature was still
above 60 degrees 6 to 8 hours later.
Roland
It takes -90 F to freeze 1.300 SG 100% SOC electrolyte and -10 F to freeze
1.700 SG 50% SOC electrolyte.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 9:40 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Insulating batteries
In my Bug, I have 3 battery "pods".
The front and rearmost pods are in the trunk and engine compartment where
they are essentially exposed to outside temperatures. The batteries are
contained in "cages" or frames and not "boxes" so much of the battery casing
is exposed. There is absolutely no room inside these cages to slip in any
type of insulation.
Could I (and should I) attach some insulation to the batteries with an
adhesive? Or perhaps to the top and bottom of the cages? Would this add any
value or am I just trying to make myself feel better?Rich
A.Marylandhttp://www.austinev.org/evalbum/371.html
_________________________________________________________________
i?m is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a
difference.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 10:30:54 -0900
From: tehben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Simovert Parameters
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Hmm... I messed with those parameters last night and really screwed it
up. Now It cuts off if I touch the accelerator :(
Does anyone have a suggestion for the parameters with a pack of 26 12v
batteries (312) ?
I want to set everything for the most impressive performance ;)
Thanks,
--
Tehben
'90 Toyota 4x4 Pickup
'hElix EV'
Website: www.helixev.com
evalbum: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1225
On Dec 15, 2007 2:31 PM, ProEV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Tehben,
>
> In Siadis, take a look at your recent errors. Main Menu, option 5. That
> should point you in the right direction.
>
> Off the top of my head, I would look at parameters 420-425
>
> For cutting out under hard throttle:
>
> 420 Vbat_undervolt If your pack sags below this voltage, the contactors will
> open.
> 421 Vbat-Min is the voltage that the inverter will try and maintain by
> cutting back on power. If this is too close to the setting of parameter 420,
> the voltage will dip below parameter 420's setting and the contactor will
> open anyway.
> 422 Vbat0-Min is the voltage that the inverter needs to restart.
>
> For cutting out during regen:
>
> 423 Vbat0_Max is the maxium voltage that the inverter will restart.
> 424 Vbat_Max is the voltage the inverter will try and maintain by cutting
> back regen current. If this is too close to the setting of parameter 420,
> the voltage will climb above parameter 425's setting and the contactor will
> open.
> 425 Vbat_Overvolt If your pack goes above this voltage, the contactors will
> open.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Cliff
> www.ProEV.com
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tehben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EV mail list" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 5:25 PM
> Subject: [EVDL] Simovert Parameters
>
>
> > Does anyone have a full list of parameters for the Siemens Simovert
> > and an explanation for what they're for?
> > I have a problem where the controller is turning off if I floor the
> > accelerator or if I am going over like 20mph or something and hit the
> > break activating the regen (which by the way is awesome! :D)
> > I am thinking that I still have something in the parameters limiting
> > current or something.
> >
> > I have the Ibat_Max_Pos and Ibat_Max_Neg set to 280 amps, but right
> > below that there are two parameters Ibat_Red_Pos and Ibat_Red_Neg that
> > are set to 10 amps and I haven't a clue what they are for... anyone
> > know?
> >
> > Yeah, there are a lot of things you can change.. but that did jump out at
> > me.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --
> > Tehben
> > '90 Toyota 4x4 Pickup
> > 'hElix EV'
> > Website: www.helixev.com
> > evalbum: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1225
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 11:58:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Conversion video
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hey, wait a minute!
Mine's just been re-vamped and is now better than
ever! My first 5 minutes shows the taperlock hub,
flywheel going on, etc. (got to get in a plug, so to
speak, for a car with a plug). (;-p
Seriously, I think all LISTers with an EV should have
their rig on DVD, to be made available to newbies for
a small price... Why re-invent the wheel for EVery EV?
peace,
--- storm connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I just got Steve Clunn's video and wish I had it
> before! How to make
> your own adapters, installing batteries and lots of
> clever ideas. No
> matter how much experience you have, I'll bet you
> will learn
> something. How to get things right without a lot of
> sophisticated
> tools and measuring devices. Sort of reminds me of
> one of my all time
> favorite shows, The Woodright's Shop. 5 thumbs up!
>
> Description here:
> http://www.cloudelectric.com/inc/sdetail/388
>
> --
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
> http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
> Storm
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
Thinking about converting a gen. 5 ('92-95) Honda Civic? My $23
"CivicWithACord" DVD (57 mins.) shows ins and outs you'll encounter, featuring
a sedan; a del Sol, and a hatchback, each running 144V/18 batteries. It
focuses on component/instrumentation/battery placement and other
considerations. For more info,
http://home.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\__
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
------------------------------
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End of EV Digest, Vol 5, Issue 49
*********************************
