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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: DC/DC with flexible pack voltage? (Mark Eidson)
   2. Re: Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-) (Dan Frederiksen)
   3. Re: Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-) (Mike Willmon)
   4. Re: Siamese8 rebuild (was RE:  EVision Heaven) (Mike Willmon)
   5. Re: Siamese8 rebuild (was RE:  EVision Heaven) (Mike Willmon)
   6. Re: EV Digest, Vol 6, Issue 28 (Chip Gribben)
   7. Re: EVision Heaven (Morgan LaMoore)
   8. Re: battery box doesn't fit (EVDL Administrator)
   9. Re: DC/DC with flexible pack voltage? (Chuck Homic)
  10. Re: DC/DC with flexible pack voltage? (Mark Eidson)
  11. Re: E-meter questions (Pestka, Dennis J)
  12. Re: Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-) (MIKE WILLMON)
  13. Re: Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-) (MIKE WILLMON)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 11:02:12 -0700
From: "Mark Eidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC/DC with flexible pack voltage?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
        <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I tried having the batery tied to the DC-DC but I would still get drop
outs with the main contactor disconnecting and the Zilla reporting
errors under heavy acceleration.  I once had to restore the default
settings in the Zilla flash to correct errors caused by the dropouts.
This is problem is caused when the dropouts occured diring hairball to
Zilla communication......Now I have a separate battery and charger for
the 12V supply to the Zilla and hair ball.  I still use the DC-DC for
other 12V loads that are not critical to operation.  me

On 1/9/08, Chuck Homic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mark Eidson wrote:
> > I had a problem with my DC-DC dropping out when the pack dropped
> > during high current loads......I eventually had to add a separate 12V
> > battery for the Zilla and associated controls.  me
> >
> Yes, I plan to use a small accessory battery (small SLA or motorcycle
> starting battery or something) with the DC-DC, to handle any
> high-current spikes.  (Power accessories like windows and such, might
> want a power steering pump, etc.)  It would help in this case too, I assume.
>
> If the DC-DC cuts off when out of its voltage range (and automatically
> cuts back on), maybe that's fine for me.  I'm pretty concerned about
> touching the high end of the voltage range when coming off a fresh
> charge, though.  Don't want to smell anything in that case.
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 18:05:55 +0100
From: Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-)
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

looks nice. what batteries are you using?

Mike Willmon wrote:
> After a couple weeks, measuring, cutting, looking at, measuring again,
> welding, measuring, looking at, measuring again, welding some more and
> finally painting....we got the motor mounts finished and tonight the motors
> went "into the Pinto".
>   



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 07:27:51 -0900
From: Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-)
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

After a couple weeks, measuring, cutting, looking at, measuring again,
welding, measuring, looking at, measuring again, welding some more and
finally painting....we got the motor mounts finished and tonight the motors
went "into the Pinto".

Jim, we didn't Even touch them, so how's that ;-P  And the batteries are
here now so there is nothing holding us up now....well...almost nothing ;-)

After much concern and re-measuring and several attempts at the drawing
board we finally mocked the motors up with wood. And just measured and cut
everything to fit.  There seems to be huge tracts of real estate inside the
Pinto, at least compared to what I've seen and heard about a certain white
Datsun 1200.  5/8" terminal clearance on one of the back motor studs and
1/2" on the other.  1/2" under the back motor to the front end cross member.
1/2" each side of the rear motor inside the tunnel.  Front CE shaft does not
encroach past where the radiator would normally mount.  The angle is just
right for matching to a rear end (which is next to go in by the way).  The
gear coupler has over 1/2" clearance over the steering rack (because the
space between the motors straddles the steering unit.  These things would
have a huge downward angle (~11 degrees) if they were Siamese just to clear
the top of the tunnel and the top of the steering gear.  Having the motors
split allows them to set down a couple inches creating the perfect motor
angle for the driveline.

Enjoy some pics.

http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6198.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6209.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6212.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6213.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6214.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6218.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6220.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6223.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6224.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6225.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6226.JPG
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6227.JPG


Mike Willmon



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 07:28:38 -0900
From: Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Siamese8 rebuild (was RE:  EVision Heaven)
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Awwww, Jim has to rebuild the motors anyway and it gives John an excuse to
have it in the shop.  Plus Jim rarely gets to see his babies anyway.  Might
as well put all kinds of neat stuff on the thing ;-P

Dollars to donuts says Jim has his paint shop buddy paint the Siamese killer
up to look like a nuclear warhead or titamium plated WarP drive complete
with Plasma vents (venting plasma of course).

Jim nice job on that e-bay motor by the way :-) I couldn't see the sides did
you put 1/2"-20 holes in the sides for easy mounting?  I can say that they
really worked out great for mine and prevented me from performing atrocities
like welding mounting tabs to the housings :-)

Mike Willmon

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Cor van de Water
> Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 12:47 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] EVision Heaven
> 
> John Wayland wrote:
> > We could not use the motor's forward section brush end bell's
> > tach sensor for use with the EVision, as that sensor was
> > already dedicated to the Zilla's Hairball.
> 
> Why could you not send that signal also to the Evision?
> If the sensor is generating a signal then it should be possible
> to send it two places, unless these two places use a different
> reference (for example one has the signal relative to ground
> while the other has the sensor input relative to +12 or one
> input has a high resistance input to receive a Voltage, while
> the other imput has a low impedance to monitor Current,
> but even that is relatively easy to solve with a little bit
> of electronics... I see no need for a second sensor!
> 
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]    Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water     IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225    VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675    eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Second Life:
> www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
> 
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 07:54:02 -0900
From: Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Siamese8 rebuild (was RE:  EVision Heaven)
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Awwww, Jim has to rebuild the motors anyway and it gives John an excuse to
have it in the shop.  Plus Jim rarely gets to see his babies anyway.  Might
as well put all kinds of neat stuff on the thing ;-P

Dollars to donuts says Jim has his paint shop buddy paint the Siamese killer
up to look like a nuclear warhead or titamium plated WarP drive complete
with Plasma vents (venting plasma of course).

Jim nice job on that e-bay motor by the way :-) I couldn't see the sides did
you put 1/2"-20 holes in the sides for easy mounting?  I can say that they
really worked out great for mine and prevented me from performing atrocities
like welding mounting tabs to the housings :-)

Mike Willmon

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Cor van de Water
> Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 12:47 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] EVision Heaven
> 
> John Wayland wrote:
> > We could not use the motor's forward section brush end bell's
> > tach sensor for use with the EVision, as that sensor was
> > already dedicated to the Zilla's Hairball.
> 
> Why could you not send that signal also to the Evision?
> If the sensor is generating a signal then it should be possible
> to send it two places, unless these two places use a different
> reference (for example one has the signal relative to ground
> while the other has the sensor input relative to +12 or one
> input has a high resistance input to receive a Voltage, while
> the other imput has a low impedance to monitor Current,
> but even that is relatively easy to solve with a little bit
> of electronics... I see no need for a second sensor!
> 
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]    Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water     IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225    VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675    eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Second Life:
> www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
> 
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 13:27:56 -0500
From: Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 6, Issue 28
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

Yea Lee that is absolutely absurd.

When I was living in a townhouse development several jokesters would  
reach into my EV and turn the lights on while it was parked or  
charging, during the daytime!  (I know, I should keep the doors  
locked) My car had 6 inch letters across the bottom of the door that  
said "Electric Car". So I'm betting these fools were thinking if they  
turn my lights on it would drive down the propulsion batteries. But  
that never happened. I'm sure they were probably surprised to see the  
car gone when I drove it to work.

It took a few times of this before I took the time to close the  
windows and lock the doors. But then people would unplug the car. I  
tried to make it not hazardous by laying the cord into a deep  
expansion crack in the sidewalk so the cord actually sank below the  
level of the sidewalk. But even so, people would still yank the cord  
out. That was actually an inconvenience because sometimes I'd leave  
for trips on an undercharged pack.

Probably kids just goofing off. I'm glad we finally moved out of  
there and moved to a place with a garage where the only person  
tripping over the cord is me.

Chip


On Jan 9, 2008, at 12:56 PM, Lee Hart wrote:

> His comments that electric cars can't be driven at night because  
> the lights take too much power is just plain absurd. Headlights  
> don't even use 1% of the power needed for propulsion.



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 12:22:29 -0600
From: "Morgan LaMoore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EVision Heaven
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
        <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On 1/9/08, John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I agree with you, that there's probably a circuit that can be designed
> to make a duplicate 2nd channel output from the one sensor. Care to
> design it? You could probably market it to those who will be adding an
> EVision to their Zilla-equipped EVs.

The circuit required is very simple, just an opto-isolator with some
drive circuitry. Anyone who can solder 0.1" pitch parts can make one
on a protoboard.

Here's one I drew up quick:

                                 U1
                          ____________________
                         |            ________|_________________ Second +12V
                         |      ||   |        |     R3   |  |
                  R1     |      ||   |      __|_____^^^__|  >
  Main +12V ______^^^____|__    ||  _|_    |  |  |          >R5
                         |  |   ||  / \    |  |  |          >
                         | _|_  ||  ---   /   |  |       ___|___ Output
                         | \ /  ||   |  |/    |  |   Q2 |
                         | _V_  ||   |__|     |  |   |--|
                         |  |   ||      |     |  |---|
                       __|__|   ||      |\    |  >   |->|
                      |  |      ||        >   |  >R4    |
      Input ___    Q1 |  |      ||         |  |  >      |
               |   |--|  |      ||         |__|__|______|_______ Second Ground
               |---|     |      ||            |
               |   |->|  |____________________|
               >      |
               >R2    |
               >      |
Main Ground ___|______|

It would have looked a lot simpler if I hadn't drawn the internal
diagram of the opto isolator.

Here's the parts:

R1: 1k
R2,R4: 100k
R3: 10k
R5: 2k, 1/4W
Q1, Q2: 2N7002
U1: 6N135

All of that should cost less than $4 from digikey. You might want to
add a capacitor to the power supply on each side; that would add about
$0.50 more. The perfboard you mount it to will be about half the cost
of this device!

Also, if you could find the right opto-isolator, you could probably do
away with the transistors and most of the resistors. This opto is
really cheap, though.

I put the transistor on the input because I'm not sure whether the RPM
sensor can provide the 10mA required by the opto. Also, if the RPM
sensor provides a TTL output, you should connect R5 to +5V instead of
+12V secondary.

-Morgan LaMoore



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 13:42:44 -0500
From: "EVDL Administrator" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] battery box doesn't fit
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On 8 Jan 2008 at 12:59, m gol wrote:

> I have the T-box. I thought that goes into the rear?

That one goes under the back seat.  I think the one you have fits '91-'93 
(possibly '94) Metros, not the later models.  

You might check with Electro Automotive.  I think they have charge of the 
Solectria designs, and they had battery box designs to fit later Metros.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not 
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email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 13:57:44 -0500
From: Chuck Homic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC/DC with flexible pack voltage?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Is that what Otmar suggested, or did you even bring it up with him?  
(That's the first thing I would do.)

This seems crazy.  If the zilla is powered by an accessory battery fed 
by the DC-DC, it shouldn't matter if the DC-DC cuts off.  The result 
would be exactly what you have now, unless the DC-DC is lame and 
actually sucks current from your accessory battery when it undervolts.

Mark Eidson wrote:
> I tried having the batery tied to the DC-DC but I would still get drop
> outs with the main contactor disconnecting and the Zilla reporting
> errors under heavy acceleration.  I once had to restore the default
> settings in the Zilla flash to correct errors caused by the dropouts.
> This is problem is caused when the dropouts occured diring hairball to
> Zilla communication......Now I have a separate battery and charger for
> the 12V supply to the Zilla and hair ball.  I still use the DC-DC for
> other 12V loads that are not critical to operation.  me
>
>   



------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 12:31:09 -0700
From: "Mark Eidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] DC/DC with flexible pack voltage?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
        <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

That is what appeared to be what was happening.......or the DC-DC was
not keeping the battery charged properly........The simplest thing for
me to do was just isloate the battery and Zilla since I had a 12V
charger laying around......When I set the Zilla to prevent the battery
pack from drooping below 60V to prevent the drop out my acceleration
was pathetic when the pack was down 60% SOC. I have a direct drive @
4.75:1 so the currents can be pretty high at start up.  The DC-DC is a
Servcon 622/11086 72/80 300W and will dropout for 330ms if the input
goes below 60V.  This dropout must look something like a
short........me

On 1/9/08, Chuck Homic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Is that what Otmar suggested, or did you even bring it up with him?
> (That's the first thing I would do.)
>
> This seems crazy.  If the zilla is powered by an accessory battery fed
> by the DC-DC, it shouldn't matter if the DC-DC cuts off.  The result
> would be exactly what you have now, unless the DC-DC is lame and
> actually sucks current from your accessory battery when it undervolts.
>
> Mark Eidson wrote:
> > I tried having the batery tied to the DC-DC but I would still get drop
> > outs with the main contactor disconnecting and the Zilla reporting
> > errors under heavy acceleration.  I once had to restore the default
> > settings in the Zilla flash to correct errors caused by the dropouts.
> > This is problem is caused when the dropouts occured diring hairball to
> > Zilla communication......Now I have a separate battery and charger for
> > the 12V supply to the Zilla and hair ball.  I still use the DC-DC for
> > other 12V loads that are not critical to operation.  me
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 13:32:14 -0600
From: "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] E-meter questions
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
        <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"

Thanks Lee;

I'm using the isolated DC/DC converter, so I guess I'm covered.

Thanks again;
Dennis 

-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Hart [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 10:05 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] E-meter questions

Pestka, Dennis J wrote:
> I recently purchased an e-meter for my Datsun truck conversion, ~ 2 
> months. I'm confused about this EV Filter. What is it, and do I need 
> to be concerned if my E-Meter has it?

The stock E-meter works down to 10 volts. If its supply voltage dips
below this, it shuts down and loses its data. Since you're not supposed
to take a lead-acid battery below 10.5v, this works out OK.

But some EV'ers routinely pull huge currents from nearly dead batteries
(they shouldn't, but they do!) :-( They also tend to "cheap out" and
power the E-meter from a 12v tap on their main battery pack (you're
supposed to use an isolated DC/DC converter). There is also a tremendous
amount of noise on a battery pack with a big motor controller. The
result is that the E-meter shuts down and loses data every time you step
hard on the throttle.

The "EV filter" is a 1N4001 diode, 2.2 ohm resistor, and a 1000uF 50vdc
capacitor. The capacitor is across the E-meter's +12v power and common. 
The diode and resistor are in series, between the capacitor positive and
the external +12v power. Its purpose is to filter out the huge power
supply noise spikes, and hold up the E-meter's power during brief drops
below 10v.

If you use a proper isolated DC/DC converter, you don't need the EV
filter.

If your meter doesn't have it and you think you need it, it can be added
externally.

--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net





------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 09:59:52 -0900
From: MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-)
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Yes on the coupler bolts.  They actually provided bolts with the kit but the 
nuts have crush threads on them and we didn't want to mess them up yet.  We'll 
still have to pull the motor out one more time to touch up paint the mounts and 
get all the shavings out from drilling the holes. (and yes Jim, we did cover 
them when we drilled the motor mount holes ;-)

Carharts are a requirement.  Mine are insulated though and for 65 degrees in 
the garage they were overkill :-)

----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wednesday, January 9, 2008 7:44 am
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-)
To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List' <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>

> Mike Willmon wrote:
> 
> > After a couple weeks, measuring, cutting, looking at,
> > measuring again, welding, measuring, looking at, measuring
> > again, welding some more and finally painting....we got the
> > motor mounts finished and tonight the motors went "into the Pinto".
> 
> Congratulations Mike; it's looking great!
> 
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6225.JPG
> 
> You are going to replace those through bolts on the couple with 
> some allen head cap screws that are all the same (proper) length, 
> and with locknuts or nuts and washers and lockwashers, aren't you? ;^>
> 
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6226.JPG
> 
> You know you're in AK when you're wearing your Carharts to work in 
> the garage! ;^>
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Roger.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> 



------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 10:01:03 -0900
From: MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-)
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I couldn't figure out why they would not power the rear end but Jim tells me 
you have to put squirrels inside them, doh!  Who woulda known?

----- Original Message -----
From: "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wednesday, January 9, 2008 8:12 am
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-)
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>

> Nice Job!
> 
> Just for fun I couldn't help noticing you have made a paper-towel 
> powered 
> pinto!  ;-)
> 
> -Phil
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mike Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 1:35 AM
> Subject: [EVDL] Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-)
> 
> 
> > After a couple weeks, measuring, cutting, looking at, measuring 
> again,> welding, measuring, looking at, measuring again, welding 
> some more and
> > finally painting....we got the motor mounts finished and tonight 
> the 
> > motors
> > went "into the Pinto".
> >
> > Jim, we didn't Even touch them, so how's that ;-P  And the 
> batteries are
> > here now so there is nothing holding us up now....well...almost 
> nothing 
> > ;-)
> >
> > After much concern and re-measuring and several attempts at the 
> drawing> board we finally mocked the motors up with wood. And just 
> measured and cut
> > everything to fit.  There seems to be huge tracts of real estate 
> inside 
> > the
> > Pinto, at least compared to what I've seen and heard about a 
> certain white
> > Datsun 1200.  5/8" terminal clearance on one of the back motor 
> studs and
> > 1/2" on the other.  1/2" under the back motor to the front end 
> cross 
> > member.
> > 1/2" each side of the rear motor inside the tunnel.  Front CE 
> shaft does 
> > not
> > encroach past where the radiator would normally mount.  The angle 
> is just
> > right for matching to a rear end (which is next to go in by the 
> way).  The
> > gear coupler has over 1/2" clearance over the steering rack 
> (because the
> > space between the motors straddles the steering unit.  These 
> things would
> > have a huge downward angle (~11 degrees) if they were Siamese 
> just to 
> > clear
> > the top of the tunnel and the top of the steering gear.  Having 
> the motors
> > split allows them to set down a couple inches creating the 
> perfect motor
> > angle for the driveline.
> >
> > Enjoy some pics.
> >
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6198.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6209.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6212.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6213.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6214.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6218.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6220.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6223.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6224.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6225.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6226.JPG
> > http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Motor_Install_8Jan08/DSCF6227.JPG
> >
> >
> > Mike Willmon
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> 



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