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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Red painted stamped? out motor adapters (Mike Willmon)
2. Re: Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-) (Mike Willmon)
3. 14V auxiliary battery (Jay Caplan)
4. BB- 600 NiCads (Josh Creel)
5. Re: Battery Life (shred)
6. Re: Battery Life (Metric Mind)
7. Re: motor/generator add on for ICE....Also making an adapter
(m gol)
8. Re: Size of LiFePO4 cells (Jeff Shanab)
9. Re: BB- 600 NiCads (John G. Lussmyer)
10. Re: Battery Life (Roland Wiench)
11. Re: Red painted stamped? out motor adapters (Adrian DeLeon)
12. Re: A EV Hybrid Grin (Jeff Shanab)
13. Re: 14V auxiliary battery (Roland Wiench)
14. Re: Red painted stamped? out motor adapters (Rush)
15. Re: 14V auxiliary battery (EVDL Administrator)
16. Re: BusBar sizing (Jeff Shanab)
17. Re: Shocking Outlets WAS Cross Country EV trip with, LionEV
opportunity (Ryan Stotts)
18. Re: Tesla restructing (David Nelson)
19. LiFePO4 on ebay (m gol)
20. calling Lee Hart (Carl Clifford)
21. Re: 14V auxiliary battery (Paul)
22. Re: LiFePO4 on ebay (Dan Frederiksen)
23. Re: LiFePO4 on ebay (Morgan LaMoore)
24. Re: Optima Trials and Tribulations (John G. Lussmyer)
25. Call for EV community: immediate action (Peter Eckhoff)
26. test disregard (Peter Eckhoff)
27. Re: Size of LiFePO4 cells (SteveS)
28. Zagato wiring. (Lawrence Rhodes)
29. "Who Killed the Electric Car" Movie posted on Google (M. Barkley)
30. Is it possible to charge and discharge at the same time?
(David Hrivnak)
31. Question about Isolated Charger behavior (electruck)
32. Re: Size of LiFePO4 cells ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
33. Re: Is it possible to charge and discharge at the same time?
(Morgan LaMoore)
34. "Magic Number" for air-cooled VW (Frank Schmitt)
35. Re: Question about Isolated Charger behavior (Morgan LaMoore)
36. Re: 14V auxiliary battery (Peter VanDerWal)
37. Re: Optima Trials and Tribulations (Dan Frederiksen)
38. Re: Battery Life ((-Phil-))
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:01:12 -0900
From: Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Red painted stamped? out motor adapters
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
It has a canev sticker on it so it must be here http://www.canev.com/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Dan Frederiksen
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 11:11 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: [EVDL] Red painted stamped? out motor adapters
>
> I've seen these fire engine red, top hat shaped motor adapters a few
> places. who makes these?
>
> like this one:
> http://www.evhelp.com/Images_files/Installed_Controller.jpg
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 10:09:02 -0900
From: Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-)
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Dude, those extra holes were life savers. A rail down the side of even one
motor and you can weld on any kind of attachment or motor mount you wanted
:-)
That oughtta be standard from Netgain, as well as the lift hole.
Just a question because I can't remember...you filled that hole in the
regular WarP9 that the snap switch wires came out, right? Since it wasn't
on top I couldn't see if you turned it to the bottom. But I seem to
remember you said you filled it.
I just built up the tailshaft housing mount to hook it to the existing
tranny cross member. Those dudes ain't going anywhere. No tailshaft
waggin' on this shaft. Once the rear end goes in I can set the pinion angle
and get the driveshaft built.
More later.
Mike
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Jim Husted
> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 9:50 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Crazyhorse Pinto Motors are in :-)
>
>
> --- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > After a couple weeks, measuring, cutting, looking
> > at, measuring again,
> > welding, measuring, looking at, measuring again,
> > welding some more and
> > finally painting....we got the motor mounts finished
> > and tonight the motors
> > went "into the Pinto".
> >
> > Jim, we didn't Even touch them, so how's that ;-P
>
> Hey Mike
>
> Been meaning to chime in here 8^P Looks like you did
> me proud 8^) but then again, it could all be just a
> nice photoshop job 8^o So I take it those added holes
> worked out okay for ya huh?
>
> Anyway, can't wait to watch videos of you jamming down
> the track.
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _____________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:11:29 -0600
From: "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] 14V auxiliary battery
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I run a 12V deep cycle auxiliary battery for lights, etc. and would prefer
to stay with this rather than a DC/DC converter.
My question is whether there is a way to run 14V perhaps with a small 8V and
a small 6V batteries in series to run these lights etc for headlight
brightness. Is that too much voltage for the lights, etc.? Will a normal 12V
charger put out enough voltage to keep a 14V arrangement most of the way
charged up, or what would be a better charger for this?
What deep cycle 8V and 6V batteries together are of a size that would fit in
a normal 12V battery holder area?
Thanks
JLC
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:09:51 -0500
From: "Josh Creel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] BB- 600 NiCads
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
These nicads that I found all have a manufacture date before 1974, does any
one know if they would still be good? also the rating stamped on the is 34
amp/hr at 2 hour rate, doesn't sound like much to me....
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 12:13:39 -0800 (PST)
From: shred <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery Life
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
"A standard EV will use about 30 to 50 battery amperes and sometimes
up to 100 battery amperes for hill climbing if the rig is gear right."
I don't know about your EV but my 120vdc converted VW rabbit at 50 MPH pulls
about 165 battery amps and about 280 going up hills.
Neal
Roland Wiench wrote:
>
> The Odyssey PC1750 is a combination cranking and deep cycle battery. It
> has
> only a deep cycle capability of five seconds of cranking about 300 amps.
>
> For a on the road EV, A deep cycle battery normally can crank over 100
> minutes at 75 amperes. A standard EV will use about 30 to 50 battery
> amperes
> and sometimes up to 100 battery amperes for hill climbing if the rig is
> gear
> right.
>
> If a battery is discharge to 50% DOD it will last twice as long as it was
> discharge to 80% DOD. I have for the last past 6 years discharge my
> batteries to about 20%, so it is estimate they will last about 4 times a
> long or about 1500 cycles.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 6:52 AM
> Subject: [EVDL] Battery Life
>
>
>> I'm looking at the Odyssey PC1750 Batteries for my 65 Datsun truck.
>> 72 AH 58 lbs.
>> (13) for a 156V system.
>> They are claiming 400 cycle life at 80% DOD.
>> I'm trying to design for a 50% daily DOD.
>>
>> Is there any way to get a rough estimate on cycle life at 50% DOD, base
>> on the 80% rating.
>>
>> Thanks;
>> Dennis
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> For subscription options, see
>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/50-mile-commute-EV-in-GB-tp14728200s25542p14778382.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 12:25:04 -0800
From: Metric Mind <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery Life
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
That statement refers to a high voltage systems, AC or DC.
At > ~350VDC traction pack you'd hard pressed to consume more
than 200 battery amps under hard acceleration.
I cruise @65 mph with 45 battery amps and never saw more than
140 amps consumed (345V pack). Granted, my EV is light and
low drag, but in general battery current will be reduced by the
same proportion as battery voltage is raised (all else being equal).
Victor
shred wrote:
> "A standard EV will use about 30 to 50 battery amperes and sometimes
> up to 100 battery amperes for hill climbing if the rig is gear right."
>
> I don't know about your EV but my 120vdc converted VW rabbit at 50 MPH pulls
> about 165 battery amps and about 280 going up hills.
> Neal
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 11:27:18 -0900
From: "m gol" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] motor/generator add on for ICE....Also making an
adapter
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Yes, and he did a great job.
I just wish there was some explanation concerning pollution.
You know diesel has the Particulate problem.
They are know measuring doen to PM0.1 and supposedly it's worse then they
thought.
On Jan 12, 2008 6:50 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Noise is not going to be a real factor but the pollution may be.
> Depends on how efficient the industrial diesel really is. It will
> still be better than gas except for the nox problem of diesel. I am
> sure he only was trying to prove you can build your own hybrid diesel/
> electric and have it work.
> On Jan 12, 2008, at 1:33 AM, m gol wrote:
>
> > Looks like a Kubota 21hp diesel....
> >
> > How does it compare with the stock engine in noise and air pollution?
> >
> > On Dec 10, 2007 6:37 AM, Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> While not 100% EV- It show you how to thing about the Adapter
> >> plate. I
> >> thought using an Etek was a bit small however but he was looking
> >> for a
> >> minor
> >> power boost rather than an EV propulsion.
> >>
> >> On Dec 9, 2007 7:51 PM, M. Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>
> >>> You could do as this guy did at 21ponies.com, this is
> >>> a link to online DVD:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >> http://video.google.com/videoplay?
> >> docid=1169467178299431655&q=skorboard&total=10&start=0&num=10&so=0&ty
> >> pe=search&plindex=0
> >>>
> >>> He replaced the gasoline engine with a combo
> >>> diesel/electric motor for a hybrid.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --- Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Has anyone ever seen a 1925 dodge.... the idea of
> >>>> unit that serves as both
> >>>> the starter motor and the generator is not that new.
> >>>> Though, the idea of
> >>>> using it as hybrid may be.
> >>>>
> >>>> I also remember reading on the web a few years ago
> >>>> of sometime of someone
> >>>> putting a small belt driven motor on a subaru
> >>>> justy's engine (to make it
> >>>> accelerate faster). Worked fairly well from what I
> >>>> recall.
> >>>>
> >>>> Z
> >>>>
> >>>> On Dec 9, 2007 6:28 PM, robert harder
> >>>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> GM is working on a hybrid system for these
> >>>> vehicles that incorporates an
> >>>>> ac motor/generator as a replacement for the
> >>>> alternator and the starter its
> >>>>> is driven and drives through the accessory belt
> >>>> certainly would be the easy
> >>>>> way to do add-on hybrid for existing vehicles
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> For subscription options, see
> >>>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> For subscription options, see
> >>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> For subscription options, see
> >> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:00:28 -0800
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Size of LiFePO4 cells
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Perhaps it is more like the flat panel screens. When they first started
the percent area without an error was really high so the larger the more
expensive.
As the production methods got better the ability to make larger format
without lots of waste allowed the prices to drop. I have seen this in
many areas of technology. In the jelly roll cell the problem is any dirt
or varience of particulate size that can cause a short and the whole
cell is bad. The seperator has to have a better tolerance of thickness
across it's width or a pressure spot will become a short in less cycles.
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:00:07 -0800
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] BB- 600 NiCads
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Josh Creel wrote:
> These nicads that I found all have a manufacture date before 1974, does any
> one know if they would still be good? also the rating stamped on the is 34
> amp/hr at 2 hour rate, doesn't sound like much to me....
>
You probably want to join the BB600 Yahoo Group.
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:03:06 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery Life
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I made a boo boo, the below statement should read the capacity of 5 minutes
of cranking about 300 amps. Its is over 1500 amps for about 5 seconds.
These batteries have brass terminals which will with stand that ampere. My
lead terminals, cannot withstand over 250 battery amps for too long which
does happen with my older CableForm controller using a 5.57:1 gear ratio.
This cause shrinking of the lead post and I must check new battery
connections at least three times before the torque reading is stable.
Using a Zilla controller, my maximum battery ampere I pull is about 125 amps
using a overall gear ratio of 13.5:1. This is about 400 motor amps which
peaks at about 3000 rpm, then as the vehicle is still accelerating while
holding a constant accelerator position, the motor ampere starts to drop to
about 200 amps and battery to 50 amps.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "shred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery Life
>
> "A standard EV will use about 30 to 50 battery amperes and sometimes
> up to 100 battery amperes for hill climbing if the rig is gear right."
>
> I don't know about your EV but my 120vdc converted VW rabbit at 50 MPH
> pulls
> about 165 battery amps and about 280 going up hills.
> Neal
>
> Roland Wiench wrote:
> >
> > The Odyssey PC1750 is a combination cranking and deep cycle battery. It
> > has
> > only a deep cycle capability of five seconds of cranking about 300 amps.
> >
> > For a on the road EV, A deep cycle battery normally can crank over 100
> > minutes at 75 amperes. A standard EV will use about 30 to 50 battery
> > amperes
> > and sometimes up to 100 battery amperes for hill climbing if the rig is
> > gear
> > right.
> >
> > If a battery is discharge to 50% DOD it will last twice as long as it
> > was
> > discharge to 80% DOD. I have for the last past 6 years discharge my
> > batteries to about 20%, so it is estimate they will last about 4 times a
> > long or about 1500 cycles.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> > Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 6:52 AM
> > Subject: [EVDL] Battery Life
> >
> >
> >> I'm looking at the Odyssey PC1750 Batteries for my 65 Datsun truck.
> >> 72 AH 58 lbs.
> >> (13) for a 156V system.
> >> They are claiming 400 cycle life at 80% DOD.
> >> I'm trying to design for a 50% daily DOD.
> >>
> >> Is there any way to get a rough estimate on cycle life at 50% DOD, base
> >> on the 80% rating.
> >>
> >> Thanks;
> >> Dennis
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> For subscription options, see
> >> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
> >
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://www.nabble.com/50-mile-commute-EV-in-GB-tp14728200s25542p14778382.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:13:32 -0800
From: "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Red painted stamped? out motor adapters
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; delsp=yes;
charset=iso-8859-15
> I've seen these fire engine red, top hat shaped motor adapters a few
> places. who makes these?
Just like the sticker on top says: Canadian Electric Vehicles
http://www.canev.com/KitsComp/Components/Adapter%20page.htm
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:22:42 -0800
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] A EV Hybrid Grin
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Oops, I will be more careful with the details next time. Both Zeke and
Lee are correct of course.
I don't have an hour worth of juice in my EV. :-( The recommended fuse
for a Zilla 1K is a 400Amp semiconductor fuse(very fast blow). Mostly
because your battery pack doesn't see the same amps as the motor loop.
Which often made me wonder if I have a 156V pack, wouldn't I use a
higher amperage fuse than if I had a 300V pack?
Take the advice of looking at the charts! And a quick warning, they
often look like a straight line, but they are curves, they use log-log
graphs to straighten it out for us.
As I was told, the 80% rule is to let the device handle slight overload,
changes in ambient temperature, and surges and brown-outs.
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:31:37 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 14V auxiliary battery
To: "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Electric Vehicle
Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello Jay,
The normal charge for a 6 volt battery is 7.4 volts. The 8 volt battery is
9.4 volts. Together this makes 16.8 volts.
A 12 volt battery, the normally charge is 14.8 volts and 15.6 volts for a
equalization charge.
A equalization charge may be 7.8V for the 6 volt and 10.4V for the 8 volt
for some battery chargers. You will have to find a charger that can go to
at least to 17.2 to 18.2 volts to charge a 14 volt battery.
No, the 14 volts is not too much voltage for the head lights. I using a
heavy duty 145 amp alternator on my rig, which has external regulator
adjustments on the outside of the alternator. I have it set for 14.5 volts
for charging a 12 volt deep cycle battery and running up to 80 amps of
accessories.
Check you controller specifications for the maximum 12 volt control voltage.
Many of them are rated at 14.5 volts.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 1:11 PM
Subject: [EVDL] 14V auxiliary battery
> I run a 12V deep cycle auxiliary battery for lights, etc. and would prefer
> to stay with this rather than a DC/DC converter.
>
> My question is whether there is a way to run 14V perhaps with a small 8V
> and
> a small 6V batteries in series to run these lights etc for headlight
> brightness. Is that too much voltage for the lights, etc.? Will a normal
> 12V
> charger put out enough voltage to keep a 14V arrangement most of the way
> charged up, or what would be a better charger for this?
>
> What deep cycle 8V and 6V batteries together are of a size that would fit
> in
> a normal 12V battery holder area?
>
> Thanks
> JLC
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:39:53 -0700
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Red painted stamped? out motor adapters
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
The white sticker is the key, it is just a standard adapter plate that has
been painted red. It is made by www.canev.com
Rush
Tucson, AZ
2000 Insight, 66.7lmpg, #4965
www.ironandwood.org
www.Airphibian.com
www.TEVA2.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Red painted stamped? out motor adapters
> Maybe these guys: http://www.e-volks.com/
>
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 17:04:21 -0500
From: "EVDL Administrator" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 14V auxiliary battery
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
On 12 Jan 2008 at 14:11, Jay Caplan wrote:
> My question is whether there is a way to run 14V perhaps with a small 8V and a
> small 6V batteries in series to run these lights etc for headlight brightness.
You might consider a 12-cell NiCd or NiMH pack instead, for 14.4 volts
nominal. Seems to me that this would be an ideal application for some of
those 34ah surplus NiCd cells.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not
reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:22:07 -0800
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] BusBar sizing
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
There will not be more than 42A per cell at 1000A of discharge.(26650's
the larger cells limit me to 500Amps and are 100Amps per cell max)
A little resistance may actually help balance current flow as it will
dominate the resistance of the cell. (gotta test that)
Someone else on this list is trying the paralleling of serial strings
with management, I will let him speak up if he wants.
Welds are smaller but have an extremely low resistance compared to
soldering. Lets please not go thru the solder vs crimp argument. We are
not gonna change each others minds. (Please see the archives if you are
interested) You will notice that soldering wires to a circuit board are
frowned upon by anyone with a service department for non disposable
electric hardware. The solder creeps up the wire and creates a break point.
The soldering requires getting the cell top and the tab to the same
temperature. Way to much gets soaked into the heatsink of the cell.
Welding offers the opportunity to marry the metal in a shorter time with
the heat localized at the weld site.
Furthermore, an inverter welder offers even more control over the amount
of energy that gets into cell. A much shorter pulse at a higher amp and
only the metal of the top and the tab are the heatsink. The serial weld
has two current paths. one thru the top of the cell and one thru the
tab, they come up to melt close to the same time.
If the cell puts out a lot of current momentarily a solder joint can fail.
AND it takes at least 10 times longer to solder.
I will weld 26650's or use the bigger cells with threaded ends. I just
want to be ready for whichever one comes in at a good price.
I am gonna use a micro and am gonna get started on the software side of
things.
I have 23 years experience making molds for plastic injection molding
for machines from 50ton to 2000ton; so when the time comes to make a
case, I know how to get a mold done on a budjet. But I am thinking of
staying away from plastic. The case now doesn't have a lot of water on
the other side. I think it now has to be treated more like an electrical
cabinet. We need to consider shorting events as the cases get smashed in
a wreck.
------------------------------
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 16:27:49 -0600
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Shocking Outlets WAS Cross Country EV trip with,
LionEV opportunity
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Bob Rice wrote:
> HI everybody;
>
> Doesn't ANYBODY MARK the damn things!!?? Paint spray my 240 volt outlets
> RED and MARK them..Duh! "240 Volts!!" In English, even.
Here's a red outlet I saw at work today ;
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/7/0112081058jp0.jpg
------------------------------
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 14:40:40 -0800
From: "David Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Tesla restructing
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
http://www.teslafounders.com/ is interesting to read. Martin E. also
has some interesting perspective on the EV business and he answers why
he won't be going into the conversion business.
--
David D. Nelson
http://evalbum.com/1328
------------------------------
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:48:16 -0900
From: "m gol" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] LiFePO4 on ebay
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
If you do an ebay search for lifepo4 you'll get several items:
Here's one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/48V-18AH-LiFePO4-Electric-Scooter-E-Bike-Li-Fe-Battery_W0QQitemZ220189541107QQihZ012QQcategoryZ75210QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
That's a 48v 18ahour for 399+95 shipping. He includes a 4(?)amp charger and
BMS.
That's about 55 cents a Whr.
I have been emailing him, but he doesn't think my application for an
electric car would work, but I would like to try using this in a combo pack
of lead and lithium.
Anyway, I was curious of your thoughts....duck tape and all!
------------------------------
Message: 20
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 16:16:28 -0700
From: Carl Clifford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] calling Lee Hart
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Lee Hart, please send me an email off list - my mails don't seem to be making
it through
Thanks
Carl
------------------------------
Message: 21
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:31:04 -0800
From: Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 14V auxiliary battery
To: Jay Caplan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Electric Vehicle
Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
They make 14 volt batteries for racing applications.
12 volt nominal to 12 volt DC to DC converters are available and if
the output can be adjusted up a bit you could have a stable 14v
system while your 12v battery discharges.
I've looked into 24 volt to 12 volt DC to DC converters too. They
seem to be available in a range of amp ratings for a reasonable cost.
I haven't enquired so I don't know just how available they really
are. I think they are (or at least some of them are) for semi trucks
to use RV accessories in the sleeper section.
A DC to DC converter will provide a more stable output voltage
provided its not short on amps. My suggestions are provided to help
in that hunt. Another way would be a 14.4 volt stack (12 cells) of
high current capacity NiCads. David Roden already mentioned that and
it might be a good application for the BB-600 cells (but they are
only 34 amp hour and NiCads can have serious parallel charging issues.)
HTH,
Paul Gooch
On Jan 12, 2008, at 12:11 PM, Jay Caplan wrote:
> My question is whether there is a way to run 14V perhaps with a
> small 8V and
> a small 6V batteries in series to run these lights etc for headlight
> brightness. Is that too much voltage for the lights, etc.? Will a
> normal 12V
> charger put out enough voltage to keep a 14V arrangement most of
> the way
> charged up, or what would be a better charger for this?
------------------------------
Message: 22
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 00:15:52 +0100
From: Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] LiFePO4 on ebay
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
m gol wrote:
> That's a 48v 18ahour for 399+95 shipping. He includes a 4(?)amp charger and
> BMS.
>
> That's about 55 cents a Whr.
>
yeah it's not bad but the pack is bms limited to 2C discharge which wont
be enough for a car unless you have a quite big pack. some of these
Chinese LiFePO4 cells are 10-20-30C cells so it's a shame to waste so
much potential. understandable for him targeting scooters but less
suited for us.
it's fairly obvious that the first to put good cheap cells together into
high current capable car battery like packs will see a fair amount of
business.
Jeff, if you can get plastic cases done it's worth considering. I figure
a 25V 20Ah block would have wide appeal. lead acid conversions could die
over night
------------------------------
Message: 23
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 17:02:59 -0600
From: "Morgan LaMoore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] LiFePO4 on ebay
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
On Jan 12, 2008 4:48 PM, m gol <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> That's about 55 cents a Whr.
>
> I have been emailing him, but he doesn't think my application for an
> electric car would work, but I would like to try using this in a combo pack
> of lead and lithium.
My guess is that the BMS probably can't handle multiple packs in
series. You could parallel them fine, but if the BMS tried to cut off
the pack due to a problem, it would just blow the BMS.
Still, it would be nice for a 48V Lithium vehicle without the hassle
of packaging and BMS!
-Morgan LaMoore
------------------------------
Message: 24
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 16:20:50 -0800
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Optima Trials and Tribulations
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
John G. Lussmyer wrote:
> So, my final test results are: (Note: discharging at 26.6A, not the 25
> for "Reserve Capacity". Also all batteries were at about 50 deg F)
>
> Battery Minutes
> #1 85
> #2 85
> #3 82
> #4 79
> #5 83
> #6 76
> #7 85
> #8 82
> #9 85
> #10 - waiting for replacement
> #11 80
> #12 52
> #13 48
>
> I'm going to hook up my PFC and do some forced charging to see if that
> helps the situation.
> I'm also going to get #12 and #13 replaced.
>
(Remember that I had already had to have a couple of batteries replaced
since they wouldn't charge properly - this was a brand new pack, bought
all at once.)
Note that I did receive #10, and it tested out at about 83 minutes
reserve capacity.
I also had #12, and #13 replaced. They were shipped back on 11/14/2007.
(to BatteriesRUs)
On the same day, I was told the replacements would ship that week.
On 11/30 I was told they would ship before Christmas.
On 12/17 I was told that A) All returned batteries tested good at the
factory, and that the last 2 replacements would ship that week.
(I did reply and ask if "tests good" meant a standard CCA test, or a
full Reserve Capacity test. If the latter I'd like to see the results.
They've never sent test results, just insist they "test good".)
On 12/28/07 I was told they would definitely ship on 1/3/08.
On 1/5/08 I was told they tested and shipped the batteries on 1/4/08.
(and that Optima did the testing, still no test results other than "they
are good".)
On 1/10/08 I finally received tracking #'s for the 2 batteries that had
been shipped - on 1/9/08.
WHY do people lie about something that will be easily verifiable?
Generally I don't get mad at companies until they do lie.
I am now royally pissed at BatteriesRUs.com, and am really hoping that
these last 2 replacements are actually good.
If they ARE good, that will mean that I had to go through 18 batteries
to find 13 good Optimas.
I am now quite sure that the only reason that Optima's return history is
so good is that 99.9% of their customers won't notice a 50% loss of
capacity.
------------------------------
Message: 25
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:08:25 -0500
From: Peter Eckhoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Call for EV community: immediate action
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
Hello All,
As a community, we need to be able to advise our members and new
recruits about where to invest their money in purchasing EV
technology.
A case in point is with one of our TEAA (Triangle Electric Auto
Association) members. He is asking for 12 members of our community to
listen and participate in a forum to explore a current conflict
between a national vendor of EV Technology (a controller unit) and an
officer
in the TEAA. Both parties have agreed to an open forum discussion of
their differences. Preference will be given to selecting participants
from across the USA so that all parties participating will be able to
share an accurate assessment of the conflict and potential resolution
so as to diminish any hearsay or rumor. The wide dispersion across
the nation will also facilitate awareness throughout the EAA membership
of consumer issues and EV technology promotion. The support of consumer
service is an issue with EV technical components, as is the
functionality of the equipment. We hope this will be the first of as
many needed forums for other members of our EV community to build
better awareness and community inter-support for the cause of
promoting dependable EV conversions.
Participants in this forum will be given access to any documentation
necessary to review and explore the presently conflict. It is hoped
that this first effort will promote a responsible sale and usage of
EV Technology. It is also hoped that this type of forum may provide a
level of accountability so that future EV converters may have a
method to seek assistance and affect resolution with EV component
manufacturers. Finally, for vendors who have built effective EV
technology but are dealing with an unreasonable customer, the forum
may serve to facilitate better communications toward the conflict
resolution and awareness in the EV community of the vendors customer
friendly activities.
The design of this forum is a non-binding open discussion of the
present conflict, where the 12 mediators comment and moderate the
discussion, but neither party will be bound to the forum?s
suggestions. What will happen, is that members of the EV community will
all get to
explore the present conflict, and better advise their peers and
members regarding EV purchase decisions and/or usage.
To participate, interested parties should forward their emails,
phones, and a best time to reach them to Dr. Don Crohan through TEAA
email at
teaaprez ?AT- yahoo ?dot- com. A panel will be selected and a
time and date will be organized from the schedules of the panel members.
Other
interested parties may still learn of the results through a
transcript or summary of the meeting.
Panel members will have forwarded to them process guidelines. A toll
free telephone number, date, and time will be provided to
participants for them to call in at no expense to them.
A summary of the main points and goals of this forum are:
1. Create an open forum of communication,
2. Be able to listen to both sides of the situation
3. No one in the panel is required to offer commentary nor solutions
4. Those participating can offer advice on how communication isgoing
5. Participants will be able to other community members of the
situation, if the discussion in the forum promotes any concerns
6. This type of efforts will hopefully promote EV conversions by
increasing accountability and responsibility on vendors and users by
allowing members be able to get quality and product and service
expected and needed to make EVs a viable alternate form of transport
and offer vendors the chance to confront any rumors that might be
untrue regarding his pro-customer service approach. In short, the
more open communication will serve to promote a healthier and supportive
EV community.
7. It will allow us to better understand issues vendors and users
go through in constructing EVs.
Thank you for your interest and support,
Peter Eckhoff,
President TEAA
------------------------------
Message: 26
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:32:18 -0500
From: Peter Eckhoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] test disregard
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
------------------------------
Message: 27
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:13:53 -0500
From: SteveS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Size of LiFePO4 cells
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Actually Valence makes Lithium-phosphate batteries that satisfy this
need. They make a group 24 and and a smaller size (100Ah and 40Ah
respectively at 12.8V). They also have built-in BMS. They can be
recharged with an AGM charger (at least theoretically - we have had some
problems with that so far). The group 24 delivers a full 100A-h. Not
cheap, but actually considering everything is self contained they are
not unreasonable. They also really exist.
- SteveS
Dan Frederiksen wrote:
> it really isn't that big a problem if we could just get someone to put
> the damn cells together in an efficient, inexpensive, high current and
> reliable manner.
> I think that eventually we will see the battery makers waking up to that
> fact and making screw terminals on medium sized batteries.
>
> I think we could all live with that. maybe a plastic case around them to
> give them a bit of strength. but why would they make those.. it's not
> like people would buy them :)
> a 12V,25V,50V and 100V 20Ah module maybe with legoblock style
> paralleling connectors so they can just be stacked. and screw terminals
> for serial.
>
> Dan
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 28
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 17:18:10 -0800
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Zagato wiring.
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
The Zagato has a rear mounted motor on the axle with gear reduction. It has
three traction wires going to the motor. The main contactor is wired to the
positive(black wire to the motor) & another positive goes to the reversing
contactors Battery negative goes to the same reversing contactor. The other
reversing contactor has the two other motor wires hooked to it(green &
white). . I somehow have to figure out how to put full voltage to the
motor. I want to keep the reversing contactors but lose the two speed
contractor controller. I somehow think the forward in first speed is
running parallel with full voltage & the main contactor is used to go full
voltage. I can't really experiment as it is a direct drive & I don't want
it flying out of my grasp. We are on a hill so we can't jack it up.
Lawrence Rhodes.....
------------------------------
Message: 29
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:06:22 -0800 (PST)
From: "M. Barkley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] "Who Killed the Electric Car" Movie posted on Google
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
If this link is a duplicate, I apologize, just wanted
to make sure everyone knew the entire movie of "Who
Killed the Electric Car" was on Google. Hopefully
it's up there legally. If so, send the link to anyone
you know that might not have seen the movie by now.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=5977085690337730430
------------------------------
Message: 30
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 22:37:19 -0500
From: "David Hrivnak" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Is it possible to charge and discharge at the same
time?
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I am building a hybrid vehicle hoping to improve the gas mileage and cut
down on CO2. Because the ICE will be there for the longer range, power
steering, brakes, AC and many other niceties I thought I can use some of the
excess power from the alternator to run a trickle charger for a little more
range especially on long highway trips. I wired in an inverter and a Soneil
7203SR (72V) charger. All was well until I got the electric motor
installed. The motor was pulling about 400 amps up a hill when the charger
started to smoke and upon inspection was fried.
I was advised that if you try to charge and discharge as the same time the
charger will see the sag on the batteries and try to compensate and burn
itself out. Is that likely to be true or did I have a random failure or a
defective charger? The charger has been working for about 6 months keeping
the batteries at a full charge state. But I JUST installed the motor so the
two have been in operation together for less than a minute before the
failure occurred.
Thank you
David J.? Hrivnak
www.hrivnak.com
Personal Account WWJD?
------------------------------
Message: 31
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 22:50:47 -0500
From: electruck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Question about Isolated Charger behavior
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
Hello listers,
So I connected up my DC-DC converter (CC Power) and was a bit puzzled
when I checked the output with my clamp ammeter. It showed positive
amps when I checked both the positive and negative leads from the
converter to the 12v battery.
I have noticed when charging my traction pack with my PFC-30 that the
clamp ammeter reads positive on the negative lead and the meter
reads negative on the positive lead. (I could have that backwards,
but on one lead the meter reads negative)
As an experiment I connected up my 12v battery charger (which I
believe is an isolated charger) and it reads positive on both leads.
Is it a property of an isolated charger that it reads positive amps
while a non-isolated charger with show negative on one lead?
Or have I got a wiring error somewhere?
While I'm asking about DC-DC converters, is it normal for the
converter to draw a low current from the 12v battery when there is
not traction pack voltage applied to the converter input?
Thanks,
John in Mass, (subscribed with a new email in case anyone is checking)
------------------------------
Message: 32
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:56:28 -0800
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Size of LiFePO4 cells
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I don't see Valence's pricing coming down anytime soon. But the various
no-name Chinese suppliers seem to be starting to yield better quotes. So
obviously there is waning interest in Valence.
-----Original Message-----
Actually Valence makes Lithium-phosphate batteries that satisfy this need.
They make a group 24 and and a smaller size (100Ah and 40Ah respectively at
12.8V). They also have built-in BMS. They can be recharged with an AGM
charger (at least theoretically - we have had some problems with that so
far). The group 24 delivers a full 100A-h. Not cheap, but actually
considering everything is self contained they are not unreasonable. They
also really exist.
------------------------------
Message: 33
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 21:58:56 -0600
From: "Morgan LaMoore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Is it possible to charge and discharge at the same
time?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
On Jan 12, 2008 9:37 PM, David Hrivnak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I was advised that if you try to charge and discharge as the same time the
> charger will see the sag on the batteries and try to compensate and burn
> itself out. Is that likely to be true or did I have a random failure or a
> defective charger? The charger has been working for about 6 months keeping
> the batteries at a full charge state. But I JUST installed the motor so the
> two have been in operation together for less than a minute before the
> failure occurred.
It depends on the charger. This isn't the kind of thing a charger
maker would test, so it's unknown and not the intended use of the
charger. If the charger maker designed for it, though, it's definitely
possible to charge while driving, even with sag.
My guess is that the charger finished constant-current mode and
switched to constant voltage mode. Then, the motor turned on and drew
more current than the charger could provide. Because the charger was
in constant voltage mode, it tried to keep the battery voltage at the
finish charge voltage, which would require enough current to fry it.
(This is exactly the failure mode that you described.)
However, if the charger had instead switched back to constant current
mode, it would have been fine; it would have put the bulk charge
current into the sagging battery voltage, which is exactly what you
want. So fixing it is a fairly simple software change. Sadly, though,
the manufacturer probably doesn't care about fixing this kind of thing
because it's not the intended use of their product.
You might be able to find a different kind of charger that handles
this properly. I can't think of a better way to test it than guess and
check, though; you don't have the code, and the manufacturer probably
won't help you.
-Morgan LaMoore
------------------------------
Message: 34
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 18:18:03 -0800
From: Frank Schmitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] "Magic Number" for air-cooled VW
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
I'm converting a 1969 VW Fastback and am getting ready to bolt the
motor up to the transmission.
I was able to measure the magic number (flywheel to mounting flange
distance) on the engine before I pulled the flywheel, but as I was
doing this I noticed that the crankshaft had about a quarter inch (!)
of axial play. The tolerance for this is .006", which may have
something to do with the engine not staying in tune for the previous
owner.
The bottom line is that my magic number measurement is worthless. Does
anyone happen to have this information written down?
Thanks
-Frank
http://t3ev.blogspot.com/
------------------------------
Message: 35
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 22:04:02 -0600
From: "Morgan LaMoore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Question about Isolated Charger behavior
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Try measuring the current with the LCD facing the charger, flipping
the meter so the LCD is away from the charger, and measuring again;
you should get opposite polarities.
If the side with the LCD faces the charger both times, then the
positive and negative leads should read opposite polarities. Isolated
vs. non-isolated has nothing to do with it.
-Morgan LaMoore
------------------------------
Message: 36
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 22:05:48 -0700 (MST)
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 14V auxiliary battery
To: "Jay Caplan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Electric Vehicle
Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
14V would actually be better.
Normal voltage with the ICE running is around 14-15V (to keep the SLI
battery charged up).
However, a 12V charger won't work to charge a 14V battery, it will be
about 2.5V low. It might be able to charge the 14V battery, but would
take a week or two.
> I run a 12V deep cycle auxiliary battery for lights, etc. and would prefer
> to stay with this rather than a DC/DC converter.
>
> My question is whether there is a way to run 14V perhaps with a small 8V
> and
> a small 6V batteries in series to run these lights etc for headlight
> brightness. Is that too much voltage for the lights, etc.? Will a normal
> 12V
> charger put out enough voltage to keep a 14V arrangement most of the way
> charged up, or what would be a better charger for this?
>
> What deep cycle 8V and 6V batteries together are of a size that would fit
> in
> a normal 12V battery holder area?
>
> Thanks
> JLC
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
------------------------------
Message: 37
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 01:52:26 +0100
From: Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Optima Trials and Tribulations
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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John G. Lussmyer wrote:
> WHY do people lie about something that will be easily verifiable?
> Generally I don't get mad at companies until they do lie.
> I am now royally pissed at BatteriesRUs.com, and am really hoping that
> these last 2 replacements are actually good.
>
> I am now quite sure that the only reason that Optima's return history is
> so good is that 99.9% of their customers won't notice a 50% loss of
> capacity.
>
yeah it sucks being in the clutches of dark minds who think lying and
ignoring will make things go away. sales people is a particularly
stricken group but far from exclusive unfortunately. I trust you were
careful to avoid mistakes in the testing?
if you were you could write a thoughtful letter to optima leadership
about the abysmal quality control that might be acceptable for a pure
starter battery but not a deep cycle. communicate in a non threatening
manner that the results will be published online but that you would like
to include a solemn promise from them that they will improve immediately
always go straight to the top, lower ranks often suffer from the
secretary syndrome (mediocrity which thinks it knows best in a misguided
attempt to shield the boss from the obviously deranged customer) "you
couldn't possibly know something we don't" "don't you think we test our
product" "we've been doing this for.."
Dan
------------------------------
Message: 38
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 20:15:23 -0800
From: "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery Life
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
You can't quote Amps, because on a Higher voltage system the Amps will be
less. (if all else is the same) It should be WATTS used when quoting
power consumption.
-Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "shred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery Life
>
> "A standard EV will use about 30 to 50 battery amperes and sometimes
> up to 100 battery amperes for hill climbing if the rig is gear right."
>
> I don't know about your EV but my 120vdc converted VW rabbit at 50 MPH
> pulls
> about 165 battery amps and about 280 going up hills.
> Neal
>
> Roland Wiench wrote:
>>
>> The Odyssey PC1750 is a combination cranking and deep cycle battery. It
>> has
>> only a deep cycle capability of five seconds of cranking about 300 amps.
>>
>> For a on the road EV, A deep cycle battery normally can crank over 100
>> minutes at 75 amperes. A standard EV will use about 30 to 50 battery
>> amperes
>> and sometimes up to 100 battery amperes for hill climbing if the rig is
>> gear
>> right.
>>
>> If a battery is discharge to 50% DOD it will last twice as long as it was
>> discharge to 80% DOD. I have for the last past 6 years discharge my
>> batteries to about 20%, so it is estimate they will last about 4 times a
>> long or about 1500 cycles.
>>
>> Roland
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 6:52 AM
>> Subject: [EVDL] Battery Life
>>
>>
>>> I'm looking at the Odyssey PC1750 Batteries for my 65 Datsun truck.
>>> 72 AH 58 lbs.
>>> (13) for a 156V system.
>>> They are claiming 400 cycle life at 80% DOD.
>>> I'm trying to design for a 50% daily DOD.
>>>
>>> Is there any way to get a rough estimate on cycle life at 50% DOD, base
>>> on the 80% rating.
>>>
>>> Thanks;
>>> Dennis
>>>
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>>
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>>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://www.nabble.com/50-mile-commute-EV-in-GB-tp14728200s25542p14778382.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
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End of EV Digest, Vol 6, Issue 40
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