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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Monthly NE EAA Meeting, Ampabout Stuff, too. (dave cover)
   2. GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Josh Creel)
   3. Zener Regulators ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
   4. Re: Monthly NE EAA Meeting, Ampabout Stuff, too. (Bob Rice)
   5. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Bob Rice)
   6. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Frank John)
   7. Re: Zener Regulators (Frank John)
   8. Re: battery tab welding (Jeff Shanab)
   9. Re: EVDL archive problem (Walter Guinon)
  10. Re: Zener Regulators (Christopher Zach)
  11. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Roland Wiench)
  12. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Mark Ward)
  13. Re: I want it all! (Jeff Major)
  14. Re: Zener Regulators (Mike Willmon)
  15. Re: Monthly NE EAA Meeting, Ampabout Stuff, too. (Lee Hart)
  16. Re: Does anyone have any comments about my motor mounts?
      (Mark Eidson)
  17. Six 1 month old 6 V GC batts (CG-2's) on e-bay $60 (Steve Powers)
  18. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Lee Hart)
  19. Re: 40% Efficiency?..lets do some Math! (Jeff Major)
  20. Re: Battery box on my S-10. (Lee Hart)
  21. Re: Six 1 month old 6 V GC batts (CG-2's) on e-bay $60 (Lee Hart)
  22. Re: Zener Regulators (Lee Hart)
  23. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Roland Wiench)
  24. Curtis pot replacement (Gerald Wagner)
  25. Re: Battery box on my S-10. (Josh Creel)
  26. Tesla - Finally on the  Automotive News Stands (Steven Lough)
  27. Re: Does anyone have any comments about my motor mounts?
      (Peter Gabrielsson)
  28. TH400 tailhousing  (was  Does anyone have any comments...)
      (MIKE WILLMON)
  29. Re: Curtis pot replacement (Roland Wiench)
  30. Re: Curtis pot replacement (Bob Bath)
  31. Re: Curtis pot replacement (keith vansickle)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:33:05 -0500
From: "dave cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Monthly NE EAA Meeting, Ampabout Stuff, too.
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
        <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On 2/3/08, Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> A Thought
> here: A separate contactor to shunt the controller OUT of the circit IF you
> wanted it ALL, battery wise? No current limit! Good for pulling out on blind
> curves, when the onrushing 55-60 mph SUV heaves into view!

Bob

I have a monster contactor sitting around that I have no good use for,
I'll bring it by if I can make the next meeting. I think it has a 24v
coil, but that shouldn't be a problem with the recent schematic
running aorund the list lately. It shows how to run a 24v coil with 12
volts.

Dave Cover



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:44:02 -0500
From: "Josh Creel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"

I'm having a little trouble sorting out what I need as far as gauges for my 
S-10 conversion.  Does anyone have any suggestions as to what works best?  I 
guess I would like to have a little computer screen,  RPM, Miles/Hr, battery 
pak voltage, Watt/Hrs used, etc.  But I'm not sure what is available,  I've 
been looking at stuff on the web so long, I've gotton myself confused.  

Thanks

Josh

www.jcsevparts.com


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:50:49 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [EVDL] Zener Regulators
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

I would like to know if anyone has first hand experience with those  homemade 
Zener Regulators.  I have seen several variations including ones  with 1 and 
2 PR2 bulbs as well as different zeners and resistors.  Just  looking for 
opinions from people who have actually built and used them.
 
Thank  you,

Dave Delman
1981 Electric DeLorean  Project
electricdelorean.com



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:56:46 -0500
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Monthly NE EAA Meeting, Ampabout Stuff, too.
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
        reply-type=original

   Hi Dave;

   I was wondering IF it COPUPD mess up the Cursit's mind being shunted OUT, 
probably under load? I have contacters loud enough. Or ya would have to drop 
Curtis out FIRST?They are too expensive to kill, on a whim?

   Seeya

   Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dave cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Monthly NE EAA Meeting, Ampabout Stuff, too.


> On 2/3/08, Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> A Thought
>> here: A separate contactor to shunt the controller OUT of the circit IF 
>> you
>> wanted it ALL, battery wise? No current limit! Good for pulling out on 
>> blind
>> curves, when the onrushing 55-60 mph SUV heaves into view!
>
> Bob
>
> I have a monster contactor sitting around that I have no good use for,
> I'll bring it by if I can make the next meeting. I think it has a 24v
> coil, but that shouldn't be a problem with the recent schematic
> running aorund the list lately. It shows how to run a 24v coil with 12
> volts.
>
> Dave Cover
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
> -- 
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date: 
> 9/22/2007 1:27 PM
>
> 



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:15:07 -0500
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
        reply-type=original

   Hi Josh;

   I'm old fashioned a bit here. I like plain old analog type panel meters. 
Large format3-4" square. Usually install 12 volt "Grain of Wheat" type 
bulbs, you model RR guyz know them. Any Hobby shop that sells parts would 
know them, glue two of them inside the meter faces area. put them in series 
so the'll last forever.I'm surprised at the relative lack of selection at 
the EV parts depts. E Bay has a selection of stuff, IF you have time to wade 
through it!? Got 3 600 amp Miller meters from welding gear? for 12 bux each. 
Of course yur not done<g>! Gotta hunt down some 600 amp SHUNTS! Found them, 
too. Shunts were cheep, too.All Electronics in CA. Volt meters, too, same 
hunt thing!IF ya have a GOOD quality meter, like say, a Simpson, 60-70 bux, 
nowadaze, you can get used to how your volts read, or how far yur gunna go! 
Sorta like a sailer reads the wind on a sailboat, to trim his sails. Yur Amp 
meter helps too, between the two you WILL learn how far yur going! How 
"Soft" the pack is getting, FAR from home<g>!

   OK that's my "Beginner" pack. Read all that OTHER stuff, too. But don't 
go crazy. Christ! There are ENOUGH diss-tractions driving nowadaze. Case in 
point; Radios, that you need an engineering degree to operate! Just to turn 
on, tune, you have to look at and diddle, you will not see the broad in the 
Escalade on the fone blowing by the STOP sign, to take evasive action! I 
sorta like my dashbored PLAIN, to keep an eye on traffic and the stupid shit 
EVerybody else is pulling.

    YMMV, though.

     Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Josh Creel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:44 AM
Subject: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?


> I'm having a little trouble sorting out what I need as far as gauges for 
> my S-10 conversion.  Does anyone have any suggestions as to what works 
> best?  I guess I would like to have a little computer screen,  RPM, 
> Miles/Hr, battery pak voltage, Watt/Hrs used, etc.  But I'm not sure what 
> is available,  I've been looking at stuff on the web so long, I've gotton 
> myself confused.
>
> Thanks
>
> Josh
>
> www.jcsevparts.com
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
> -- 
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date: 
> 9/22/2007 1:27 PM
>
> 



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 06:23:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Josh,

I use an analog ammeter and voltmeter mounted in plain view.  You can calculate 
max speed in each gear so as to not overspeed your motor, so you don't 
necessarily need motor RPM (although this would be cool).  You can also use an 
E-Meter to keep track of AH out and AH in.  I think the ammeter and voltmeter 
are minimum requirements.

Devices like PakTrakr (?), EVision add capability but I don't feel I need them 
at this point.


----- Original Message ----
From: Josh Creel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2008 8:44:02 AM
Subject: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?


I'm 
having 
a 
little 
trouble 
sorting 
out 
what 
I 
need 
as 
far 
as 
gauges 
for 
my 
S-10 
conversion.  
Does 
anyone 
have 
any 
suggestions 
as 
to 
what 
works 
best?  
I 
guess 
I 
would 
like 
to 
have 
a 
little 
computer 
screen,  
RPM, 
Miles/Hr, 
battery 
pak 
voltage, 
Watt/Hrs 
used, 
etc.  
But 
I'm 
not 
sure 
what 
is 
available,  
I've 
been 
looking 
at 
stuff 
on 
the 
web 
so 
long, 
I've 
gotton 
myself 
confused.  

Thanks

Josh

www.jcsevparts.com
_______________________________________________
For 
subscription 
options, 
see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev





      
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Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  
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------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 06:24:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Zener Regulators
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I have three on my 36 volt m-cycle using a single PR2 bulb each.  The bulbs 
seem to light up at the appropriate time and resting voltages on the batteries 
are pretty close.


----- Original Message ----
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2008 8:50:49 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Zener Regulators


I 
would 
like 
to 
know 
if 
anyone 
has 
first 
hand 
experience 
with 
those  
homemade 
Zener 
Regulators.  
I 
have 
seen 
several 
variations 
including 
ones  
with 
1 
and 
2 
PR2 
bulbs 
as 
well 
as 
different 
zeners 
and 
resistors.  
Just  
looking 
for 
opinions 
from 
people 
who 
have 
actually 
built 
and 
used 
them.
 
Thank  
you,

Dave 
Delman
1981 
Electric 
DeLorean  
Project
electricdelorean.com



**************Biggest 
Grammy 
Award 
surprises 
of 
all 
time 
on 
AOL 
Music.  
  
 
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)
_______________________________________________
For 
subscription 
options, 
see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev





      
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 06:28:17 -0800
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] battery tab welding
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I neglected to explicitly say you need an inverter welder, Bill is right
.
While the HF25 is an inverter welder, I didn't realize that it is only
2400A max.
Bill, with thin tabs, can you get by with 2400 Amps? Obviously this
would only be good for scooters,bikes or an EV that has a LOT in parallel



------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 06:56:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Walter Guinon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EVDL archive problem
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii




EVDL Administrator wrote:
> 
> Thanks to Nabble support, the problems with the archive seem to have been 
> resolved.  I appreciate your patience.
> 
> I am seeing a shorten list of topics on the archive search results using
> Mozilla Firefox and and Windows XP Home edition. No help from refresh. 10
> AM
> 
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> 
> 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/EVDL-archive-problem-tp15056229p15268876.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at 
Nabble.com.



------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 09:43:37 -0500
From: Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Zener Regulators
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I would like to know if anyone has first hand experience with those  homemade 
> Zener Regulators.  I have seen several variations including ones  with 1 and 
> 2 PR2 bulbs as well as different zeners and resistors.  Just  looking for 
> opinions from people who have actually built and used them.

Sure. I run 50 of them in my Prizm, four of them in my solar shed, and 
one on my kid's Power-Wheels (26ah Hawkers for the Prizm and 
PowerWheels, 4 100ah 12-370's in the shed)

They work great. The Prizm batteries were used when I got them 6 years 
ago, and were way out of balance when I installed the regs 2 years ago. 
Since then they run fine.




------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:28:29 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello Josh,

I find that the most important gage for a EV is the motor amp meter.  This 
gage takes off the a shunt that is install between the controller and the 
motor.

Next is the battery amps which is taken from a shunt between the battery and 
the main contactor.

Lets say your motor is rated for a continuous ampere of 200 amps, a battery 
ampere meter will not read that. The battery amps may be reading 50 amps 
while your motor may be at 200 amps.

Thinking your batteries are rated for 800 amps and you running the battery 
ampere at 200 amps, your motor amperes could be way over 600 amps.

A motor like a ADC and Warp can only with stand a short burst of over ampere 
for a short time, so motor ampere is the one to watch.  Many people have 
overheat or burn out there motors because motor indications was not use.

The next meter is a meter to find out how much energy is use from the 
battery and replacing that energy to the correct level and at what rate.

This would be like a E-Meter such as a Link-10. It reads the amount of 
ampere-hour use and recharge, it also records the amount of watthours, 
battery amperes, battery voltage, percentage of charge and battery 
temperature.

The next meter would be a tachometer, so you do not over speed the motor. 
Some controllers, have a speed sensor input where you input the maximum rpm 
of the motor.

If you do not have a tachometer for now, here is a formula you can use to 
find out what the maximum mph in each gear would be:


                               RPM x Tire Circumference
                       MPH  =  -------------------------
                               Overall Gear Ratio x 1056

The Overall Gear Ratio is axle ratio times the transmission gear ratio in a 
selected gear.

The Tire Circumference is the one rolling turn with the weight of the 
vehicle on the tire.  Is measure by placing a mark on the tire and the 
ground and make one rotation and placing another mark on the ground.  Then 
measure between the two marks.

For example, my motor maximum rpm is 6000 rpm and my tire circumference is 
90 inches.  My rear axle is 5.57:1 and if I want to find out how fast I can 
go in 1st gear which my is a 2.75:1, then to find the overall ratio, I take 
5.57:1 times 2.75:1 = 15.3175:1 overall ratio.

So in 1st gear this becomes:


                             6000 rpm x 90 inches
                 33.3 MPH =  --------------------
                             15.3175  x 1056

Therefore I will normally not go over 30 mph in 1st gear.  You then can 
calculated what the maximum speed you can go in all the other gears.

Roland

> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Josh Creel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, February 4, 2008 8:44:02 AM
> Subject: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV? 



------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 7:42:00 -0800
From: Mark Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Hi Roland,

My car uses an automatic transmission so I was planning to look at motor 
current to find the shift points.  What do you think of that approach?

Mark Ward
95 Saab 900 SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com


---- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> Hello Josh,
> 
> I find that the most important gage for a EV is the motor amp meter.  This 
> gage takes off the a shunt that is install between the controller and the 
> motor.
> 
> Next is the battery amps which is taken from a shunt between the battery and 
> the main contactor.
> 
> Lets say your motor is rated for a continuous ampere of 200 amps, a battery 
> ampere meter will not read that. The battery amps may be reading 50 amps 
> while your motor may be at 200 amps.
> 
> Thinking your batteries are rated for 800 amps and you running the battery 
> ampere at 200 amps, your motor amperes could be way over 600 amps.
> 
> A motor like a ADC and Warp can only with stand a short burst of over ampere 
> for a short time, so motor ampere is the one to watch.  Many people have 
> overheat or burn out there motors because motor indications was not use.
> 
> The next meter is a meter to find out how much energy is use from the 
> battery and replacing that energy to the correct level and at what rate.
> 
> This would be like a E-Meter such as a Link-10. It reads the amount of 
> ampere-hour use and recharge, it also records the amount of watthours, 
> battery amperes, battery voltage, percentage of charge and battery 
> temperature.
> 
> The next meter would be a tachometer, so you do not over speed the motor. 
> Some controllers, have a speed sensor input where you input the maximum rpm 
> of the motor.
> 
> If you do not have a tachometer for now, here is a formula you can use to 
> find out what the maximum mph in each gear would be:
> 
> 
>                                RPM x Tire Circumference
>                        MPH  =  -------------------------
>                                Overall Gear Ratio x 1056
> 
> The Overall Gear Ratio is axle ratio times the transmission gear ratio in a 
> selected gear.
> 
> The Tire Circumference is the one rolling turn with the weight of the 
> vehicle on the tire.  Is measure by placing a mark on the tire and the 
> ground and make one rotation and placing another mark on the ground.  Then 
> measure between the two marks.
> 
> For example, my motor maximum rpm is 6000 rpm and my tire circumference is 
> 90 inches.  My rear axle is 5.57:1 and if I want to find out how fast I can 
> go in 1st gear which my is a 2.75:1, then to find the overall ratio, I take 
> 5.57:1 times 2.75:1 = 15.3175:1 overall ratio.
> 
> So in 1st gear this becomes:
> 
> 
>                              6000 rpm x 90 inches
>                  33.3 MPH =  --------------------
>                              15.3175  x 1056
> 
> Therefore I will normally not go over 30 mph in 1st gear.  You then can 
> calculated what the maximum speed you can go in all the other gears.
> 
> Roland
> 
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Josh Creel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2008 8:44:02 AM
> > Subject: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV? 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev



------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:12:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] I want it all!
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1


--- Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> EV Parts has a nice torque plot for
> the ADC 9" that goes out to 1200A and suggests that
> the 9" might operate as high as 50-55% efficient at
> that current (I suspect their chart may not be based
> on actual dyno measurements, but sensible
> extrapolation of ADC's plots based on the assumption
> that torque will continue to rise about linearly
> with further increases in current and that RPM and
> efficiency will continue to drop linearly with
> increased torque):
>
<http://www.evpartsgo.com/img/mt2119torquecurvebyus.PDF

> Roger.
> 

Hi Roger,

They should have never given a pencil to the idiot
that drew that curve.  He obviously just took a
straight edge and extended the lines.  This might work
pretty well for RPM and Amps vs torque, but fails
miserably for output power and efficiency.

It shows stall torque of 300 lb.ft. at 1200 amps.  At
300 lb.ft., Power Out = 0 RPM * 300 lb.ft. / 5250 = 0
HP.  Graph shows 93 HP.  Efficiency at 300 lb.ft. =
Power Out / Power In * 100 % = 0 / 72 kW * 100 % = 0
%.  Graph shows 55 %.

Regards,

Jeff M



      
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------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 07:25:22 -0900
From: Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Zener Regulators
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Here's a little sheet I put together on my build of the Lee Hart Zener Regs.
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Zener_Regs.pdf

They worked OK, but not quite aggressive enough for 100AH batteries.  
I figured I was getting about 1/2 AH per charge to the lower batteries.

Mike

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 4:51 AM
> To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
> Subject: [EVDL] Zener Regulators
> 
> I would like to know if anyone has first hand experience with those
> homemade
> Zener Regulators.  I have seen several variations including ones  with 1
> and
> 2 PR2 bulbs as well as different zeners and resistors.  Just  looking for
> opinions from people who have actually built and used them.
> 
> Thank  you,
> 
> Dave Delman
> 1981 Electric DeLorean  Project
> electricdelorean.com
> 
> 
> 
> **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
> (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-
> grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
> 48)
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev



------------------------------

Message: 15
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 10:30:03 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Monthly NE EAA Meeting, Ampabout Stuff, too.
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Bob Rice wrote:
>>> A separate contactor to shunt the controller OUT of the circit IF 
>>> you wanted it ALL, battery wise? No current limit! Good for pulling
>>> out on blind curves, when the onrushing 55-60 mph SUV heaves into
>>> view!

From: Dave Cover
>> I have a monster contactor sitting around that I have no good use for,
>> I'll bring it by if I can make the next meeting. I think it has a 24v
>> coil, but that shouldn't be a problem with the recent schematic
>> running around the list lately. It shows how to run a 24v coil with 12
>> volts.

Bob Rice wrote:
 > I was wondering IF it COULD mess up the Cursit's mind being shunted
 > OUT, probably under load? I have contacters loud enough. Or ya would
 > have to drop Curtis out FIRST? They are too expensive to kill, on a
 > whim?

Hi Bob and all,

There is no problem *closing* the bypass contactor on a Curtis. Connect 
it to short M- to B-, and away you go!

The big problem comes when you *open* the bypass contactor. The motor 
current will be above the Curtis's normal current limit (after all, that 
was why you closed it!) When the bypass contactor opens, this high motor 
current flows through the Curtis's weak freewheel diodes. They are 
barely good enough to survive *normal* current, let along 2-3 times more 
due to the bypass contactor. Bang!

There are ways to deal with this, though.

1. You could have a motor ammeter, and always make sure that the motor
    has "spun up" enough so the current is below the Curtis's limit.

    But, that depends on human nature. Someday you'll forget.

2. You could add a separate *large* freewheel diode across the motor,
    to handle the moment when the bypass contactor turns off.

    But, it will have to be a pretty good diode; fast, low on-state
    voltage drop, good heatsinking, etc. The Curtis diodes are in
    parallel, so the external one needs to be good enough to carry
    most of the current.

3. You could add a couple of contactors, and a sequencing circuit.
    When you "floor it", it closes the bypass contactor. An auxiliary
    contact on the bypass contactor powers a second contactor. Its
    contacts a) disconnect the Curtis M-, and b) connect your freewheel
    diode. This diode can now be a big old slow one (cheap) because
    it's not fighting with the Curtis diodes.

    When you let up the accelerator, the bypass contactor drops out.
    Its auxiliary contacts then open. But a big capacitor holds the
    second contactor in for a second; this allows time for the motor
    current to flow through the big freewheel diode and drop below
    the Curtis's current rating. Then the second contactor drops out,
    removing the big freewheel diode and reconnecting the Curtis M-.

    The main thing here is the need for two big contactors, a big
    diode, and fooling-around time to get it wired and tested.

4. Other ideas?

-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net



------------------------------

Message: 16
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:34:07 -0700
From: "Mark Eidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Does anyone have any comments about my motor
        mounts?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
        <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Mike,
Did the TWarP9's 1.370 hardened, splined shaft through a Turbo 400
Shorty tailshaft require any special machine work?  This is a really
clean looking hookup.  me.

On 2/3/08, Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Josh,
> Looks good!  Yet another version of the twin rails like I'm doing on the
> Pinto http://www.evalbum.com/1093 .  The difference is that I'm picking up
> the motor housing directly.  I did the same with the Mitsubishi
> http://www.evalbum.com/756 .
>
> However it looks like you're setting up to use the alternator so having that
> front plate like you do allows you to run the rails between them and
> outboard of the motor housing.  There's no reason at all that won't work :-)
>
> I also like the way you're reusing the clutch dick for your adaptor.  I
> can't quite tell, are you using a taper-lock type hub or is that a press fit
> with a keyway?
>
> You might revise your 0-60 mph estimate however if you're going to run only
> 120V.  You can see some simulations I did at lower motor voltages on my
> Mitsubishi at the bottom of the page here http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/
> With my 4060 lb truck at 120V and 400A I top out at 56 mph and it took all
> of 45 seconds to get there. At 120V and 500 amps however I was able to get
> 60 mph in just over 30 seconds.
>
> Keep on truckin'
>
> Mike
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of Josh Creel
> > Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 7:38 PM
> > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> > Subject: [EVDL] Does anyone have any comments about my motor
> > mounts?
> >
> > Checkout what I come up with on my S-10 conversion.  does anyone
> > have any thoughts as to how well these mounts should work?
> >
> > http://www.jcsevparts.com/services
> >
> > Thanks for any advice.  I'm getting to the point where I'll need to order
> > more parts to get much further ;-)
> >
> > I hope I can get  the battery racks built tommorrow.
> >
> > I'm looking at going with 120 vdc system instead of the 144vdc,  any
> > thoughts?
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



------------------------------

Message: 17
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:42:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Six 1 month old 6 V GC batts (CG-2's) on e-bay $60
To: ev <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Starting bid $60.

6 Volt Golf Car/Electric Vehicle Batteries Item
number: 270209019235 

Not near there, but maybe good for someone who is.

I believe theses are Exide GC-2.  Not great batts, but
if you live near there and they go for $100 or so for
the lot ... that could be a good deal.

Steve


      
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 



------------------------------

Message: 18
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 10:54:36 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Josh Creel wrote:
> I'm having a little trouble sorting out what I need as far as gauges
> for my S-10 conversion.  Does anyone have any suggestions as to what
> works best?  I guess I would like to have a little computer screen,
> RPM, Miles/Hr, battery pak voltage, Watt/Hrs used, etc.  But I'm not
> sure what is available,  I've been looking at stuff on the web so
> long, I've gotton myself confused.

The absolute minimum is an analog ammeter (battery amps) and voltmeter 
(battery volts). An expanded scale voltmeter is good (like 100-150v for 
a 120v pack). You can read them fast without taking your eyes off the 
road. Once you learn what they mean, you can manage your batteries 
pretty well.

Digital gauges are an improvement for voltage, because small difference 
are important. Amps are more of a relative thing; digital tends to jump 
around a lot and take longer to read (more time with your eyes off the 
road).

Some form of state-of-charge ("fuel") gauge comes next. The cheap ones 
are all basically voltmeters marked "Empty...1/4...1/2...3/4...Full". 
Not very accurate, but neither are the gas gauges in most cars.

Engineers are interested in numbers, and want to measure all sorts of 
things. Amphours, Kilowatts, Temperature, Number of Cycles on batteries, 
etc. The E-meter / Link-10 is probably the best deal for the price, but 
there are others.

Things really start to get complicated if you want to measure (or do 
something about) individual battery voltages.

-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net



------------------------------

Message: 19
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 09:04:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 40% Efficiency?..lets do some Math!
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1


--- John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hello to Jeff and All,
<snip>
> Example (1) ...the GM EV1 inverter outputted 102 kw
> into its AC motor 
> that GM stated made 137 hp...that's a 100%
> efficiency claim, yet no one 
> challenged that stat.
> 
> Example (2) ...the AC Propulsion 'AC 150'  model
> 'system' (includes 
> motor) is rated at 150 kw that they rate at 200
> hp...that's a 100% 
> efficiency claim, yet no one challenges this stat.
> 
> Example (3)...Electro Automotive lists their lower
> power model Azure AC 
> system at 83% efficient, then turns around and
> publishes stats of 156V 
> input @ 280 amps = 43 kw saying it then makes 58
> hp...that's a 100% 
> efficiency claim, yet no one challenges that stat.
<snip>

Hi John,

I am not connected over the weekend.  Glad to see a
bit of response about the 40% when I got back on line
this morning.  I have been thinking about how to do
some math on it.  Seems like there is no dyno data
available.  Hopefully I can get to that soon.  In the
mean time, to address the points above.....

Example (1):  The GM EV1 was "rated" at 102 kW.  That
is propulsion motor output.  Not inverter.  So the
100% efficiency is simply the conversion of kW to HP. 
Not a system efficiency.  And I have seen dyno test on
the system where actual shaft power exceeds 102 kW
(137 HP).  That was 429.7 A at 308.3 V for 132.49 kW
input to the inverter.  And 109 lb.ft. at 7005 RPM
shaft output for 145.4 HP or 108.46 kW output power. 
Efficiency at the point is 81.7 %.

Example (2):  I am sure the 150 kW is output power
rating (peak, I believe).  Here again, 100 % is just
the conversion of kW to HP.  If you go to the ACP web
site, they have the complete efficiency map of the
motor and controller.

I don't know much about #3.  It does look fishy.

Point is that these AC ratings are output power, on
the motor shaft.  At least the ones from reputable
sources.  Just in metric (kW) instead of HP.  No 100 %
efficient claims.

And in a AC/DC war, we should compare apples to
apples, not output to input.

Regards,

Jeff M


      
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs



------------------------------

Message: 20
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 11:12:30 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery box on my S-10.
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Josh Creel wrote:
> Well I got the rear battery box built and mounted for my s-10
> conversion.  Still trying to figure out how to make the 2 battery
> boxes in front of my axle.  I'm trying to get 12 batteries up there.
> Really tight fit.  If anyone has any suggestions, they would be
> greatly appreciated!

I can't help you with specifics on the S-10, but here are some general 
ideas that have proven useful.

Make cardboard boxes the size of your batteries (including the 
terminals). It is much easier to test-fit them in place. See how many 
you can fit and still close the hood, have room for the wiring, etc.

Once you have the basic arrangement, get a sheet of styrafoam and a tube 
of the glue for it at the lumber company. Make a box to fit your 
batteries. Test fit this box into the space available. You may find you 
need to trim corners, or extend an edge so it can sit on something solid.

Now, you can use this box as a template to make your real box. Or, 
fiberglass over the styrafoam to make it *become* the real box. Use 
epoxy resin, not polyester, so it won't attack the foam. This gives you 
a strong, light box that's acid proof and insulates your batteries.

If things are really tight so you can't have the thickness of the 
styrafoam, you can fiberglass the foam box, then cut out the excess 
foam. It cuts easily with a saw or hot wire, and you can clean out the 
dregs with acetone (makes styrafoam disappear)!

-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net



------------------------------

Message: 21
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 11:18:06 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Six 1 month old 6 V GC batts (CG-2's) on e-bay $60
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Steve Powers wrote:
> Starting bid $60. 6 Volt Golf Car/Electric Vehicle Batteries Item
> number: 270209019235. I believe theses are Exide GC-2.

I think the golf cart batteries at my Sam's Club at Exide GC-2's. They 
only want $67 each, and that's new with a warranty.

When I've bought used golf cart batteries, I've only had to pay $10-$20 
for them. Go to a place that services golf carts; they always have a 
midden heap of half-used, mismatched batteries. Bring your tester, and 
sort out the promising ones.
-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net



------------------------------

Message: 22
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 11:30:39 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Zener Regulators
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Dave Delman asked:
 >> I would like to know if anyone has first hand experience with those
 >> homemade Zener Regulators. I have seen several variations including
 >> ones with 1 and 2 PR2 bulbs as well as different zeners and
 >> resistors. Just looking for opinions from people who have actually
 >> built and used them.

I have of course, but I'm prejudiced :-)

I used them for 18 months on my pack of Concorde 12v 95ah batteries. 
They were pretty well balanced because I had been using my Battery 
Balancer. The zener-lamp regs held them in balance at first, but slowly 
lost ground as the batteries continued to age.

I sent a set to Jonathan Dodge, who used them with a set of Optimas in 
his Porsche EV. From the test data, they worked pretty well, and reduced 
the voltage difference between batteries about 3:1.

I sent a set to John Wayland; but I don't know if he ever did anything 
with them.

Mike Willmon wrote:
> Here's a little sheet I put together on my build of the Lee Hart
> Zener Regs. http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Zener_Regs.pdf
> 
> They worked OK, but not quite aggressive enough for 100AH batteries.  
> I figured I was getting about 1/2 AH per charge to the lower batteries.

I'd say that's about right. With a single PR2, they can only correct up 
to 0.5 amps of imbalance (0.5 amphours per hour of operation). They are 
generally active for the last 2-4 hours of charging, so they can correct 
about 1-2 amphours of difference between batteries.

The 1-lamp version is best for batteries under 50 amphours. The 2-lamp 
version was a way to double the balancing current, for higher amphour 
batteries. In principle, you could build a version with a still higher 
current bulb for 6v 200ah batteries, but I haven't tried it (balancing 
isn't really necessary for floodeds).
-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net



------------------------------

Message: 23
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 10:34:09 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>,     "Mark
        Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="UTF-8"

Hello Mark,

I have use both type of transmissions.  It was first a GM TH-350 with and 
then without the torque converter.  The clutches only lasted 1000 miles with 
out the torque converter.  I now use a GM TH-400 TCI automatic that is 
converted to manual using a manual value body which is a shift only 
transmission like a manual.

I use the large 4 inch tachometer that is converted to a motor ampere meter 
by programming the Zilla for AMP ON TACH which I can read the motor ampere 
on the tachometer.

I can pull away from 0 mph at a normal street acceleration and can keep it 
at 200 motor amps on a level grade.  If there is a slight up hill grade, it 
may go to 300 amps while holding the accelerator peddle at one constant 
position.

I find as the speed increases from 0 to 30 mph on this slight up hill grade, 
the motor ampere will go from 0 to 300 amps, and as it hits 300 amps, and 
even while the speed is increasing, the motor ampere is now dropping from 
300 amps back to 200 amps.

Now if the EV happens to be on level grade and then the GE 11 inch motor 
will come down to 150 motor ampere while my battery ampere is about 50 amps.

Before I had a motor ampere meter install, I really cook the motor windings 
to a nice dark brown color by just watching a battery ampere which read 180 
battery amperes and the battery voltage was at 170 volts.

I found out, later when I install a motor amp meter, that I was pulling 
about 600 motor ampere! on a long 2 mile up grade hill that ran for about 10 
years.  I had a motor shop re enamel the windings and was able to run 
another 15 years, until a silver solder welded connection came apart and had 
that repair and re enamel again.

Using a motor amp meter, I now keep the GE-11 motor ampere to about a 175 
amps normal running and the battery amperes at a 40 amps normal running at 
30 mph.

The Warp 9 motor which I use as a back up spare motor, will run at 200 motor 
amps at about 50 battery amps for the same speed.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Cc: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?


> Hi Roland,
>
> My car uses an automatic transmission so I was planning to look at motor 
> current to find the shift points.  What do you think of that approach?
>
> Mark Ward
> 95 Saab 900 SE "Saabrina"
> www.saabrina.blogspot.com
>
>
> ---- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Hello Josh,
> >
> > I find that the most important gage for a EV is the motor amp meter. 
> > This
> > gage takes off the a shunt that is install between the controller and 
> > the
> > motor.
> >
> > Next is the battery amps which is taken from a shunt between the battery 
> > and
> > the main contactor.
> >
> > Lets say your motor is rated for a continuous ampere of 200 amps, a 
> > battery
> > ampere meter will not read that. The battery amps may be reading 50 amps
> > while your motor may be at 200 amps.
> >
> > Thinking your batteries are rated for 800 amps and you running the 
> > battery
> > ampere at 200 amps, your motor amperes could be way over 600 amps.
> >
> > A motor like a ADC and Warp can only with stand a short burst of over 
> > ampere
> > for a short time, so motor ampere is the one to watch.  Many people have
> > overheat or burn out there motors because motor indications was not use.
> >
> > The next meter is a meter to find out how much energy is use from the
> > battery and replacing that energy to the correct level and at what rate.
> >
> > This would be like a E-Meter such as a Link-10. It reads the amount of
> > ampere-hour use and recharge, it also records the amount of watthours,
> > battery amperes, battery voltage, percentage of charge and battery
> > temperature.
> >
> > The next meter would be a tachometer, so you do not over speed the 
> > motor.
> > Some controllers, have a speed sensor input where you input the maximum 
> > rpm
> > of the motor.
> >
> > If you do not have a tachometer for now, here is a formula you can use 
> > to
> > find out what the maximum mph in each gear would be:
> >
> >
> >                                RPM x Tire Circumference
> >                        MPH  =  -------------------------
> >                                Overall Gear Ratio x 1056
> >
> > The Overall Gear Ratio is axle ratio times the transmission gear ratio 
> > in a
> > selected gear.
> >
> > The Tire Circumference is the one rolling turn with the weight of the
> > vehicle on the tire.  Is measure by placing a mark on the tire and the
> > ground and make one rotation and placing another mark on the ground. 
> > Then
> > measure between the two marks.
> >
> > For example, my motor maximum rpm is 6000 rpm and my tire circumference 
> > is
> > 90 inches.  My rear axle is 5.57:1 and if I want to find out how fast I 
> > can
> > go in 1st gear which my is a 2.75:1, then to find the overall ratio, I 
> > take
> > 5.57:1 times 2.75:1 = 15.3175:1 overall ratio.
> >
> > So in 1st gear this becomes:
> >
> >
> >                              6000 rpm x 90 inches
> >                  33.3 MPH =  --------------------
> >                              15.3175  x 1056
> >
> > Therefore I will normally not go over 30 mph in 1st gear.  You then can
> > calculated what the maximum speed you can go in all the other gears.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> > > ----- Original Message ----
> > > From: Josh Creel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> > > Sent: Monday, February 4, 2008 8:44:02 AM
> > > Subject: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> 



------------------------------

Message: 24
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 12:44:06 -0500
From: "Gerald Wagner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Curtis pot replacement
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Is there a source for the 0 - 5K pot in the Curtis pot box?  Mine gest jumpy
and I want to replace it.

jerry


------------------------------

Message: 25
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 13:12:23 -0500
From: "Josh Creel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery box on my S-10.
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
        reply-type=original

How important is insulating the batteries in south Georgia do you think?


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery box on my S-10.


> Josh Creel wrote:
>> Well I got the rear battery box built and mounted for my s-10
>> conversion.  Still trying to figure out how to make the 2 battery
>> boxes in front of my axle.  I'm trying to get 12 batteries up there.
>> Really tight fit.  If anyone has any suggestions, they would be
>> greatly appreciated!
> 
> I can't help you with specifics on the S-10, but here are some general 
> ideas that have proven useful.
> 
> Make cardboard boxes the size of your batteries (including the 
> terminals). It is much easier to test-fit them in place. See how many 
> you can fit and still close the hood, have room for the wiring, etc.
> 
> Once you have the basic arrangement, get a sheet of styrafoam and a tube 
> of the glue for it at the lumber company. Make a box to fit your 
> batteries. Test fit this box into the space available. You may find you 
> need to trim corners, or extend an edge so it can sit on something solid.
> 
> Now, you can use this box as a template to make your real box. Or, 
> fiberglass over the styrafoam to make it *become* the real box. Use 
> epoxy resin, not polyester, so it won't attack the foam. This gives you 
> a strong, light box that's acid proof and insulates your batteries.
> 
> If things are really tight so you can't have the thickness of the 
> styrafoam, you can fiberglass the foam box, then cut out the excess 
> foam. It cuts easily with a saw or hot wire, and you can clean out the 
> dregs with acetone (makes styrafoam disappear)!
> 
> -- 
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> 
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev



------------------------------

Message: 26
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 10:15:13 -0800
From: Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Tesla - Finally on the  Automotive News Stands
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List RCVR <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

I know you folks are probably aware of this already,
but the new issues of "Car and Driver"   AND  "Motor Trend", both have
major articles on the Tesla Roadster.  For any one who wants
Hard Print versions.  Did not read the articles cover to cover,
but they are basicly POSATIVE.
-- 
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle,  WA  98115-7230
Day:  206 850-8535
Eve:  206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web:     http://www.seattleeva.org



------------------------------

Message: 27
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 10:26:08 -0800
From: "Peter Gabrielsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Does anyone have any comments about my motor
        mounts?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
        <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Feb 3, 2008 5:40 AM, Josh Creel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> It's a press fit with a keyway.  I was going to use a taper-lock,  but my
> machinist thought we should try the pressed fit.  We disassembled the clutch
> disk and drilled out the rivit holes to mount it on the adapter hub using
> grade 8 5/16" bolts.  This way we retain the use of the springs that
> dampened the shock loads to the clutch.
>

Looks familiar: http://www.electric-lemon.com/?q=node/213


-- 
www.electric-lemon.com



------------------------------

Message: 28
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 10:08:45 -0900
From: MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] TH400 tailhousing  (was  Does anyone have any
        comments...)
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

They came stock that way from NetGain.

I suspect there might be a slight modification to the TH400 tail housing for 
the seal they use.
But we would need to get George Hamstra from NetGain to comment on the 
specifics.

I don't have a stock TH400 tail housing to compare to.

It does mount up pretty though :-)

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Eidson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, February 4, 2008 7:35 am
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Does anyone have any comments about my motor mounts?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>

> Mike,
> Did the TWarP9's 1.370 hardened, splined shaft through a Turbo 400
> Shorty tailshaft require any special machine work?  This is a really
> clean looking hookup.  me.
> 



------------------------------

Message: 29
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 12:12:40 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Curtis pot replacement
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"

Try www.evparts.com/

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gerald Wagner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 10:44 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Curtis pot replacement


> Is there a source for the 0 - 5K pot in the Curtis pot box?  Mine gest 
> jumpy
> and I want to replace it.
>
> jerry
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> 



------------------------------

Message: 30
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:14:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Curtis pot replacement
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Digi-Key is one of the largest places for electronics,
if you want to get into the housing and just replace
the potbox.
If one was less mechanically inclined, $65-75 would
purchase the pot and the housing.  That would be
sourced to electroauto.com, evparts.com, can-ev.com
and used to be you could go to kta-ev.com, but he
works mostly just with OEMs today. Just giving several
sources off the top of my head.
 
--- Gerald Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Is there a source for the 0 - 5K pot in the Curtis
> pot box?  Mine gest jumpy
> and I want to replace it.
> 
> jerry
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> 


Thinking about converting a gen. 5 ('92-95) Honda Civic?  My $23 
"CivicWithACord" DVD (57 mins.) shows ins and outs you'll encounter, featuring 
a sedan; a del Sol, and a hatchback, each running 144V/18 batteries.  It 
focuses on component/instrumentation/battery placement and other 
considerations.  For more info,   
http://home.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
                          ____ 
                       __/__|__\__       
             =D-------/   - -     \     
                      'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?


      
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping



------------------------------

Message: 31
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:19:12 -0800 (PST)
From: keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Curtis pot replacement
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

try www.kta-ev.com

there are many others too look under EV Parts on
google


--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Try www.evparts.com/
> 
> Roland
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gerald Wagner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 10:44 AM
> Subject: [EVDL] Curtis pot replacement
> 
> 
> > Is there a source for the 0 - 5K pot in the Curtis
> pot box?  Mine gest 
> > jumpy
> > and I want to replace it.
> >
> > jerry
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> 



      
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping



------------------------------

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