One other thing that Chris brought up...she's absolutely right, they, esp. kittens, can and will squeeze throught the smallest of spaces.  Anne's Simms pushed his head through a 1.5 inch space between the door and the cage, AFTER IT WAS LOCKED!  The space was at the TOP of the door and he shot out and hid in a car engine for about 10 hrs....luckily the car was in a garage, locked tight at the time.  But never under-estimate their fear and skill.  I carry wire and unbreakable plastic ties to TIE THE LOCKED DOOR closed at top bottom and sides after that experience, when dealing with young cats.  To this day, I don't know HOW he managed to sqeeze through there!

Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Suggestion--start using the crate as the place the food is in NOW.... also,
until you really are ready to trap, make sure to tie the door in some way so
that it doesn't swing shut. The way I got them to still go in the crate
when I was right next to it was to slowly work my way closer by laying out
treats. Eventually, little 'trail' of treats into crate...

Can't agree more with Tamara, when you finally do close that door--do it
FAST! Do not worry about the trashing about-Once you have secured the door
(do that before you do anything else!), throw a cover over it, usually calms
them down a little. Don't open it under any circumstance until you are
ready to let them out no matter what. The instinct to run will always take
over.

First time I did this, I went with a friend and we both got so nervous &
started yelling which made thin! gs even worse. When I was successful, I did
have help but mostly to open car door, bring cover, help me secure door when
I closed it.

Once inside my bathroom (with door closed), I used the small crate to very
carefully transfer a couple of cats to a larger dog kennel in which I had
litter box, food, water by putting little crate door flush to large kennel
door but be careful--they will find a way of pushing thru even the smallest
gap between doors and the howling, thrashing, etc. is really just to get you
to drop everything so they can run....

Sounds a little heartless but it really is a momentary thing and they do
then so appreciate the food, the warmth, etc.

Chris
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Nina
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2004 2:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Feral moms /crating the feral cat
What a great idea about the dog crate! I have a couple of ferals that I
just couldn't bear to leave behind when I eventually move and I know
this would work. I know these guys would never fall for a conventional
trap again, there's been plenty of times I've had the trap set for
somebody else, and they won't go near it. They trust me enough to allow
me to be close enough to shut the door. I may even use it a few nights
in a row at feeding time without trying to catch them, that way they'll
be more trusting of the situation. Who gave us that tip? Was it Tamara?
Thanks so much.
Nina

Chris wrote:

> Just a quick suggestion--I bought a used one from my local shelter for
> $10-soaked it in bleach & cleaner for a day & scrubbed it thoroughly.
> The one I got also folds up so easy to throw in the trunk if need be.
> Apparently, many people who 'surrender' their animals leave the crates
> as well! Also, ! I also would like to know what a 'come along' is. The
> crate idea can work just so long-they get the point pretty quickly!!!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> *On Behalf Of *tamara stickler
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 14, 2004 9:30 AM
> *To:* [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> *Subject:* Re: Feral moms /crating the feral cat
>
> One successful way of crating the feral cat is by using a larger
> crate. I've had lots of success with a small dog crate (it looks more
> like a cage more than a carry-on crate...its the type you would use to
> housebreak a small dog. The sides are all metal bars the only plastic
> is a plastic tray that slides in the bottom.) Its best to get the
> crate with the BLACK bars, as the white and shiny metal bars will,
> more often than, not scare the cat away, the black bars blend in
> better! with the surroundings. Place the dog crate (approx.
> 2.5'x2.5'x3') on the ground, cover the plastic tray completely with
> grass, dirt and or leaves, or a carpet square if you are trying to
> catch a feral that lives in your home (the tray should be covered with
> the same substance that is underfoot where the cage will be placed).
> Place food bowl containing really wonderful smelling treat in cage on
> far side. Now you will most likely have to deal with the poor cat!
> trying to get at the food from the wrong side of the bars...so it may
> be necessary to make a widely spaced food trail from the back wrong
> side of the bars to and thru the open crate door. Once the cat settles
> in for a snack, slowly close the door and latch. Most will freak a bit
> once they find that they can't get out, but if you put a blanket over
> it they will settle down in a few minutes and you can be on your way.
>
> This crate/cage is a bit more cumbersome than the normal cat
> carrycrate, but the open-ness of it isn't as scary as THE BOX. And you
> can still fit it in the back seat of even small compact cars. You can
> pick up a light weight one at Petsmart for about $35-$39. Or just keep
> your eyes open at yard sales and flea markets.
>
> Good luck.
>
> *//*
>
>







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