Deborah writes:

<<Unfortunately, I think you're making a lot of assumptions, while also 
trying to compare apples to oranges.

"modern-style wool" doesn't really mean much, and you can't really 
say it (whatever "it" is) is much crimpier than any other form of 
Shetland.>>

Well, I raise Shetlands, and I have animals of modern-style,
medium-style, and primitive-style wool in my flock.  There are dramatic
differences between each type of wool--such that some people have
suggested having at least two different Shetland registries.

Modern-style, or UK-style, wool is a term that's been used quite a bit
over the last few years.  I understand this term to refer to the
'breed-standard' wool that Shetland Flock Book Society members are
actively selecting for (my understanding is that rams can't be
registered without meeting the wool standard).  It's short (2-4 inches)
and very crimpy.  Some is very soft, with a handle very like Merino,
while other is very like Suffolk--I believe the goal with the SSBG to be
the Merino-type wool rather than the Suffolk type.  I have one of each
type in my flock right now--both are rams, and I'm interested in seeing
what they produce in terms of their lambs' wool types.

I have some primitive Shetlands, with wool up to 8 or 9 inches in some
cases; some with a pronounced undercoat, some with the long, wavy
outercoat but no very noticeable undercoat.  I proposed on this list a
couple years ago that it was the downy undercoat that was used for ring
shawls, and the idea was shot down by many who insisted that type of
wool wasn't true Shetland, and not the true wool type used for the ring
shawls.  I have no way of knowing, since information on wool type in
historic textiles is even harder to come by than sizes of the yarns
used.  Primitive style wool seems to be quite dominant, at least in my
flock.

And I have some of what I call 'medium' Shetlands, though possibly
'intermediate' might be the better term.  They have a staple length of
4-6 inches, with a moderate crimp not unlike BFL, though without the
pronounced luster or silky handle (there's some shine when combed, but
not a lot).  They are quite soft, comparable to a Correidale but not as
crimpy.  There's evidence of a vestigial undercoat/overcoat where the
fibers are moderating their differences so that a 'naked-eye' view of
the wool would say all are the same.  This is my personal
preference--softness, moderate crimp and staple makes for a virtually
all-purpose wool (except, of course, for a true ring shawl :)

These are all pure-bred, pedigreed Shetlands.

<<In the case of Shetland, in the islands at least (North American
breeders have a different view), this means eliminating scadder and the
dual coat.>>

I can't speak for breeders in the islands or the UK, but it's definitely
inaccurate to say North American breeders have a different view of what
to select towards regarding wool type.  There are many outspoken
proponents of both primitive-type and modern-type wools.  One board
member of the North American Shetland Sheepbreeders Association insists
anything other than breed-standard wool is 'bad' wool; one insists that
only primitive style is worth having; another, like me, enjoys all
types.  The membership is just as diverse.  As long as there's healthy,
respectful disagreement on the subject, there will be registered
Shetlands of all wool types--a great thing for spinners and spinners'
flocks :)

<<Their wool is probably much closer to what Shetlanders were using 100 
-  150 years ago than any Shetland-breed wool, and certainly much 
closer than fine Merino.>>

My understanding on this subject is that some breeders in the islands
began crossing to mainland breeds at this period.  And the trend of
crossing led to the formation of the Shetland Flock Book Society, who
were concerned that there be one standard to breed to in order to have a
distinct breed called "Shetland" that could compete in mainland mills
with mainland breeds.

I have heard (but don't know of a primary source of documentation) that
Merino was among the first crosses.  This makes sense to me; Merino has
long been held as the standard of soft wool, and therefore marketable
wool (from a factory mill viewpoint).  

>From what I've seen, Merino dominates the characteristics of crosses
quite a bit.  It wouldn't surprise me to learn that a single Merino ram,
used on a few hundred primitive-style Shetland ewes, would make a
significant difference in the wool type of the lambs, and if those lambs
were bred back to Shetland rams, would continue to have a huge impact on
the future wool types, particularly if the breeders were actively
selecting for wool that could be processed by mainland mills.  I'm
hypothesizing, as any mention of these possibilities on any list of
Shetland breeders, inevitably seems to bring up a storm of
denial/disapproval/anger :)  But information in the Shetland Sheep 2000
Conference proceedings seems to back up my hypothesis.

I'm sure a ring shawl in the sense of a lace shawl that can be drawn
through a woman's ring is possible from both modern Shetland wool and
from the undercoat of primitive Shetland wool.  It wouldn't surprise me
to hear that women in the islands did it both ways, depending on the
type of wool available to them as spinners.  I think it's a reasonable
assumption, though, that modern Shetland wool, with its tight crimp,
would be an easier wool to spin for a ring shawl than the 'medium' type
Shetland fleece I used for my small sample.  This conclusion is based on
my hands-on experience with my own Shetland wool, Shetland I've
purchased from other breeders, and a hundred or so samples of various
types of Shetland wool I've acquired, in large part to study the wool
types found in North American purebred flocks.

Holly

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