I've done warping a couple of times with a paddle. Mine had offset holes
and slots
---------------
|| || ||
0 || 0 || 0 ||
|| || ||
-----------------
On the cross, in one direction I slid the slot yarns left, on the
reverse direction, I slid them right. I think I turned the paddle a
full twist at the beginning peg to keep the ends from twisting. Yes, all
the ends at the peg are twisted, but that's OK as you cut the ends to
warp it anyway. It required me to reset my grip on the paddle around
both end posts. But it kept the threads in the same order which kept
the yarns from twisting.
If you think about going in a circle, each revolution around the warping
board is a circle, the yarns have to twist somewhere and will twist at
the cones, tangling. So to avoid that, twist them deliberately at the
warping peg.
Half twist shown below, but need to use full twist. Which I can't
seem to draw in ascii.
**********
-------- *
------- \ *
top thread ------ \ * |
peg O * / / << you'll cut here anyway.
* / /\
top thread ****** / / \
------- / |
-------- /
----------
Try it with 1 odd color thread and see what happens.
Other helpful ideas with multiple yarns: Clamp a reed to a flat surface
and run the cones underneath it. Put strands through different slots
e.g., 1, 25, 50, 75, etc to keep the ends under some modest control.
Barbara C - who did once a 32 thread repeat using 16 ends of various
singles and plied yarns. Learned a lot about warping paddles..... and
mixing yarns in a warp... and singles... and variable tension. But made
a nice shawl.
Barbara C - eastern Mass my guilds:
http://www.geocities.com/southshorespinners
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~mindseye2/BASD
"Spindles Around the World" video available from:
www.coppermoose.com/CMVideo.html, www.thebellwether.com,
www.journeywheel.com, www.woolery.com, www.WoodlandWoolworks.com.
Canada: www.Shuttleworks.com , www.Folknits.com, www.GeminiFibres.com
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