Bright greens are very easy to mix if you start with a balanced yellow
and cyan (often called turquoise) rather than any form of blue.
In my 'color triangle' batch of samples (30 samples, with amounts of two
primaries varied by 10% in each batch), the brightest green I dyed
(using Ciba Kiton dyes) is what I would describe as a bright yellow
green, but not lime or chartreuse--too much cyan for either. It's 10%
cyan, 90% yellow; 1% depth of shade (gives a good, saturated color on
white wool). I would use 5% or less of cyan for something that would
look like lime or chartreuse to me. The depth of shade would depend
upon what the other colors being matched look like.
If you use a royal (national) blue on a balanced yellow, the resulting
green is likely to be grayed down by the touch of red/magenta in the
blue. Likewise, a yellow leaning toward orange will make a duller green.
The yellow I use is CK 117 Sun Yellow, and the cyan is CK 409 Turquoise.
For a complete set of colors for mixing, the magenta I use is CK 307
"Bright Blue Red" (awfully silly name). They're all available from Pro
Chem, and here's the link: <http://www.prochemical.com/catalog/kiton.htm>
You can mix all colors (other than fluorescents) from these three dyes
very easily. Approximately equal amounts of yellow and magenta make
red; 10% magenta and 90% cyan make a luscious royal blue. Full range of
'standard' secondaries, of course, is also available by mixing two of
these primaries.
Holly
To stop mail temporarily mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
with the message: set nomail To restore send: set mail