Hey Cecil,
Thanks, this is all *really* helpful.
I think 120 pages of 24 lb. bond is a too thick for center-stapling.
I've done that before with choral books and was very unhappy with the
results.
However, reason eventually prevailed -- I managed to sell him on coil
binding by telling him (truthfully) "Pianists like coil binding," and
stressing the unreliability and cost of perfect binding.
I've been meaning to get a coil binding for a long time anyway, and
this project is a good excuse. When all is said and done, I won't
make much money on it, but I will get a nice CoilMac binder
(purchased, incidentally, from NPC Imaging, who have the best deal on
that machine).
A related question -- anyone have any idea what size coil I'd want
for 60 sheets of 24. lb bond plus cardstock front and back cover?
Does 12 mm sound right to everyone?
Cheers,
- Darcy
-----
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Brooklyn, NY
On 25 Sep 2007, at 7:50 AM, Cecil Rigby wrote:
Hi Darcy-
I'm sure you know this.... perfect-bound books don't lie flat on
the music rack very well. "Breaking the back" on them to make them
lie flat will make them fall apart more quickly. They're made
mostly for occasional use (quality paperbacks in the bookstore, for
example), or for (relatively) cheap archiving. Your client's not
going to be very happy if the book is to be used very frequently-
it will start coming apart within a few months with regular use,
and they'll think it's your fault. Maybe these are some of the
reasons you're leaning toward coil binding.
Around here printers who are capable of perfect binding charge a
setup fee. The highest fee I've encountered was $150, and the
lowest, $90 ( & I'll wager that NY-area prices are higher). Some
printers are variable in cost to the number of pages, and others
have a flat fee. Inquire about the type of glue they use- some get
brittle quicker than others over time. Better glues cost more, but
they last longer because they have a higher rubber content.
Stapling's an option with the thickness you're producing, but
middle pages will tend to tear out. These books do lie flatter, and
they're cheaper than perfect-bound. Of course, you have to take
creep into account since these are folded sheets. And the book will
look much better printed to a slightly larger size with a finishing
trim (adding to the cost).
You could go with saddle-stitched, but normally that's reserved for
hardback bindings, and it's pretty expensive- too costly for a
short run of 30 copies. This binding will require gluing the
stitched booklet groups together and adding a glued cardboard
cover. Normally these have stamped lettering, but you could opt to
glue a print on the front.
One option you might have that could save some money, being in a
large metro area, is to see whether you can get a university
librarian to send your work to the bindery they use for theses.
You'd get saddle-stitched copies back, probably. Like a perfect-
bound copy, this won't lie flat very well. It's just meant to be
more durable.
You're sensible to suggest coil binding - your client should listen
to you...... unless these copies are intended as gifts or library-
quality prints..... ? If so, perfect-bound may be more sensible.
You just pass the costs on.....
Cecil Rigby
Harrock Hall Music
Liberty, SC
rigrax at earthlink.net
----- Original Message ----- From: "Darcy James Argue"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 5:32 PM
Subject: [Finale] Binding options
[snip]
Perhaps someone with more experience could give me some advice,
especially when it comes to price, etc.
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