First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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A pipe wrench sounds kind of harsh. If you loosen the two ends of the
sleeve it should turn relatively freely that's why I said to use some
penetrating oil but if you want to use a 10 ton crane to lift a
marshmallow, have at it.
As far as the tow in, you should set the steering wheel straight (and
strap it down since you can't lock it on a 67) and then use the
sleeves to adjust the wheels equidistant as well as the tow in you
want. You should not have to remove the steering wheel and rotate it
to compensate (it will mess up the horn button contact as I recall).
Hugo
At 12:30 PM 9/30/2008, you wrote:
First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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I currently KYB shocks. They are a very old technology and rather
stiff. I have just swapped my front springs from eaton stock
springs to hotchkis front springs. The difference in the car is
amazing. I finally have the ride height I want so I don't want to
change my eaton monoleaf to the hotchis rear leaf (1.75" drop) as it
will mess up my ride height. I currently have 3/4" nose down
attitude when measured at the front and rear of the rocker panel
pinch weld. I was considering the hotchis blistien shock but like
Hugo says the are kinda expensive. I would prefer a set of koni or
vogland shock (better street shocks). The Koni's are about the same
price as the bilstien. As far as turning the adjusters I was
considering using a pipe wrench on them. Is it OK to use a pipe
wrench on them? Also the procedure I was going to use is: first
turn the steering wheel to set the steering box in the center:
Second set the wheels equal distance from the frame: Third then set
the toe: and fourth pull the steering wheel and put it back on straight.
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