First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
.........................................................................
Hi folks,

4 1/2 years later...

A couple of months ago I ordered this kit
http://www.ssbrakes.com/commerce/detail/index.cfm?nPID=8856
from Classic Industries for my 68 Bird. I know, I know - SSBC is on our
'black list' and I would rather have ordered from DFBrakes, Matt's or
Touring Classics. But there were reasons why I had to order from Classic - I
spare you the details. Besides I couldn't imagine that there _still_ might
be issues after so many years.
Anyway. The kit fits good, looks good - but doesn't brake good. Today the
car will be on a brake test bench, just to be sure that these somewhat
'reluctant' brakes aren't just a phantasm. Besides there is still a slight
chance that we did something wrong during installation but actually we
suspect the booster/master cylinder.
Just in case if we are unable to fix it locally - would there be anyone out
there willing to help me out? I.e. - getting me a stock 68 mc (front
disc/rear drum) and shipping it to Germany? Of course I would cover all the
costs. Thanks!

Ekki


> -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: [email protected] 
> [mailto:[email protected]] Im Auftrag von 
> Michael Howell
> Gesendet: Montag, 3. Januar 2005 02:03
> An: First Generation Firebird-L
> Betreff: [FGF] SSBC Problem... FIXED!!!
> 
> First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List 
> ..............................................................
> ...........
> Ok fellas, I have to give a BIG shout out to Mace for this 
> one.  Dude, you rock!
> 
> I took a chance this weekend and bought a master cylinder 
> from Napa (the third I've tried with the SSBC kit) and 
> swapped it out on my 68 coupe with the SSBC A-123 kit with 
> single piston calipers.  I had original power drum brakes and 
> 2 years ago installed the SSBC kit to convert to front discs. 
>  I have been experiencing the same problem as everyone else.  
> I had tried a master cylinder from a 72 vette, a master from 
> a 72 GMC one ton truck and a replacement master cylinder from 
> SSBC.  I had bled the system countless times and gone through 
> more brake fluid than I care to mention.
> 
> On Friday I purchased a master cylinder for a 67 Firebird 
> with disc brakes from Napa.  They did not have a listing for 
> a 68 so that's why I went with the 67 part.  This casting 
> looks like the original master cylinder for the car (as it 
> should) and bolts right up to the SSBC booster.  In addition, 
> the fittings for the lines are the same as the SSBC master 
> cylinder.  The only trick is the adapter Mace mentioned that 
> Baer provided.  This master has a deep center piston rather 
> than shallow, and the booster (original or
> SSBC) is designed to work with a shallow piston master.  I 
> made my own adapter out of a bolt.  After bleeding the brakes 
> out thoroughly, guess 
> what?  I HAVE GOOD BRAKES!!!!   The pedal is a little low but 
> once you are 
> used to it (compared to my truck) it feels great and the car 
> stops just right.  It has plenty of power to stop and will 
> stop hard when you press hard.  LIKE IT SHOULD!!  I did some 
> hard stop tests in a parking lot from about 40 mph and it 
> felt great.  It did not lock up but stopped the car very 
> quickly.  It would be interesting to set up a distance test 
> but that's for another day.  So here are the details:
> 
> Master cylinder:  Napa part # 10-1339.  Stock for a 67 
> Firebird with front disc brakes.  $20 + $14 core
> Adapter:  Use 1/2" bolt or steel rod.  Cut to 1+3/8" length 
> and drill out one end to make a cup for the tip of the 
> booster rod.  I used a small bit first and incremented up to 
> the size of the tip of the booster rod.
> 
> Double check the depth by test fitting the master cylinder.  
> You should be able to hold it up against the booster without 
> putting any pressure on it.  I left my bolt a little long to 
> start with and ended up with the 
> 1+3/8" length after trimming and grinding.  That is the appropriate 
> 1+length
> with the described cup in the end.  As a further test, you 
> can always check to make sure the brakes aren't dragging once 
> the system is all bled out.  At that point it will be harder 
> to get the adapter out and fix the issue, but it can be done.
> 
> I hope this helps the other people out there who have had 
> this problem.  Thanks again to Mace for using a process of 
> elimination to find 
> the trouble on his car!   Oh, and I am still using and loving 
> that camera 
> you sold me 2 years ago!
> 
> On another issue, some of you (Bob Trimpe I'm sure) may 
> remember that I had some overheating issues at the 2003 Trans 
> Am nationals.  That along with the poor brakes kept me from 
> going this year as I had not had much time or luck fixing the 
> problems.  Well, that issue also seems to finally be resolved 
> as well.  After much tuning and replacement of everything in 
> the cooling system aside from the radiator, I replaced the 
> radiator.  It was only 4 years old and a "new" 4 core unit 
> from one of the major suppliers.  It felt like it was working 
> properly but it had always had some 
> very small leaking issues that I tried fixing twice.   I had 
> also power 
> backflushed the system in an attempt to correct the problem. 
> I replaced it with a literally brand new 3 core (original 
> style) unit from a local shop and guess what?  The car hasn't 
> broken 200 degrees since.  It has a 180 thermostat in it and 
> it stays between 190 and 200 no matter what I do.  I couldn't 
> be happier with that.  Thanks to everyone for their 
> suggestions on this problem as well.
> 
> Celebrating in Louisville tonight!!
> Mike
> 



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