Kind thanks Ryder. All very helpful, and great to see the test strips!
with appreciation, Sarah http://www.SarahBlissArt.com > On Nov 12, 2023, at 12:31 AM, [email protected] wrote: > > Send Frameworks mailing list submissions to > [email protected] > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://film-gallery.org/mailman/listinfo/frameworks_film-gallery.org > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > [email protected] > > You can reach the person managing the list at > [email protected] > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Frameworks digest..." > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: advice on working with 3383 (Ryder White) > > From: Ryder White <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Frameworks] advice on working with 3383 > Date: November 12, 2023 at 12:30:17 AM EST > To: Experimental Film Discussion List <[email protected]> > > > hi Sarah, > > i’ve enjoyed shooting 3383 as a camera stock and processing as reversal in > the past - there are probably others here with a lot more valuable experience > than i have since i haven’t been doing much hand processing for the past few > years, but i’m glad to pitch in what basic knowledge i do have. i also found > this page in my notebook (from 3.5 years ago, yikes): > > <IMG_0583.jpg> > <IMG_0584.jpg> > > > so like most print stocks, 3383 doesn’t have a factory rated ASA. i shot it > at approximately 3 ASA outdoors with an 85 filter. i wish i could better > remember my thought process behind that choice but it seemed to work out okay > from the test samples i found. iirc, the film is expecting to see artificial > light from a contact printer, so shooting in daylight without a filter yields > a very blue, flat image. anyway, trying to figure out exposures at this level > of sensitivity is kind of a roll of the dice…but print stocks seem to > tolerate overexposure pretty well so just bomb it with as much light as you > can. > > chemistry…yes E6 works. i used a similar kit made by tetanal. i think you’ll > probably want to buy the gallon kit, if the arista kit is like the tetanal > one, the indicated volume is the final mixed volume per solution, i.e. the > quart kit makes a quart of working solution of each of the first developer, > colour developer, and blix. be mindful that colour chemistry is a fair bit > more harmful/sensitizing compared to b/w chemistry, so i strongly recommend > good PPE and ventilation - and use extra caution with dried chemical spills > or drips. please forgive me if that’s already something you’re aware of! e6 > is also very unforgiving with regards to temperature variation. i was > fortunate enough to have use of a tempering bath, but just as long as you > make sure your solutions are right on temp right before you pour them in, it > should be okay. you can always hold the film in a water wash before moving to > your next stage if you need to warm something up or cool it down. > > remjet - correct, no remjet removal needed. however, the stock incorporates > some dyes in the antihalation layer that are removed in process, so wash with > warm water very thoroughly before you begin until it comes out clear (it will > start purple). the first time i processed it this way i didn’t know that, so > i threw it straight in the first developer and turned my FD dark purple. > > i was trying to remember more about this whole process and came back across > kodak’s data sheet for 3383, which you may find interesting: > https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/VISION3_5219_7219_Technical-data.pdf > > also worth mentioning that 3383 is an estar-base stock, so it’s good to keep > a scissors on you in case you end up needing to cut it because you won’t be > able to break it with your fingers. > > hope that works! have fun - > > ryder > > > > > > Ryder Thomas White > (he/him) > SENT FROM MOBILE > > > On Sat, Nov 11, 2023 at 10:14 Sarah Bliss <[email protected] > <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: >> Hi all, >> >> I’d like to try shooting and hand developing 3383, which I’ve not used >> before and am seeking advice and tips on shooting and developing. >> >> What ASA is it rated? >> Do you use a filter of any kind? >> I’ve been advised to use an E6 kit to develop. Yes? What size kit should I >> purchase to develop a couple of rolls? Would I need 4 of these quart sized >> kits, (to make a gallon), or do the solutions get mixed with water to total >> a gallon? >> >> <Screenshot 2023-11-11 at 1.09.13 PM.png> >> >> >> Arista E-6 Chemical Kit for Processing Slide Film 1 Quart >> freestylephoto.com >> <favicon.png> >> >> <https://www.freestylephoto.com/11861-Arista-Rapid-E-6-Slide-Developing-Kit-1-Quart>Arista >> E-6 Chemical Kit for Processing Slide Film 1 Quart >> <https://www.freestylephoto.com/11861-Arista-Rapid-E-6-Slide-Developing-Kit-1-Quart> >> freestylephoto.com >> <https://www.freestylephoto.com/11861-Arista-Rapid-E-6-Slide-Developing-Kit-1-Quart> >> <favicon.png> >> <https://www.freestylephoto.com/11861-Arista-Rapid-E-6-Slide-Developing-Kit-1-Quart> >> >> >> I’m assuming that 3383 doesn’t have remjet, so no need for extra steps to >> remove that. Is that correct? >> >> Any other thoughts/tips you might have are most welcome! >> >> thanks kindly, >> >> Sarah >> http://www.SarahBlissArt.com <http://www.sarahblissart.com/> >> >> >> -- >> Frameworks mailing list >> [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> >> https://mail.film-gallery.org/mailman/listinfo/frameworks_film-gallery.org > > > -- > Frameworks mailing list > [email protected] > https://mail.film-gallery.org/mailman/listinfo/frameworks_film-gallery.org
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