The blades and punches can be sharpened, and they mostly likely will
need it if you buy a used splicer. Disassemble it and take the blades
and punches to a place that sharpens saws and industrial cutters. But
explain to them what and how it cuts. The punches need to be ground
from the inside of the little V to maintain the outer profile. The
blades should be ground from the outside, with minimal bevel on the
Clean the rest with acetone to remove the tape gunk.
The actual film plate in the base of the splicer is the other half of
the cutting surface, but it wears less than the blades and punches if
everything is properly aligned. If the edges of the plate and/or the
perf holes are excessively worn, you'll never get a clean splice.
The blades are spring steel, slightly curved to align with pressure to
the base plate. Dullness is more of an issue there than alignment. As
the baseplate wears to less than 16mm, the blades just take a wee bit
of film off with the tape. If the perf holes in the plate are
oversized, you can't make the punches bigger. Just pick the hanging
chads off with tweezers.
I have one of the double sided 16mm splicers I will probably never
use... If anyone needs it, make me an interesting offer.
Victoria, BC, Canada
On Fri, 1 Jun 2012 19:31:40 -0400, David Tetzlaff <djte...@gmail.com> wrote:
There are actually different kinds of guillotine (Catozzo-type)
splicers, one designed mainly for making workprint splices (one sided),
and another designed for making projector splices (two-sided): though
you can use either for the other with reduced convenience. The
two-sided model cuts the tape with a flap to the bottom that you just
fold over to cover the other side. To make a one-side splice with it,
you have to trim off the flap. To make a two-sided splice with the
one-side splicer, you have to turn the film over and around and repeeat
the process on the other side -- it was easier with double perf, but
hah, those were the days.
> The problems with guillotine splicers: • the blades that cut across
> the width of the splicing tape get dull and misaligned, but it's
> pretty easy to do it manually with an xacto knife
> • the punches that put sprocket holes in the tape often leave
> little pieces hanging, and they're a pain in the butt to trim
> The problem with Rivas splicers:
> • You have to be deft enough to get the holes in the tape lined up
> with sprocket holes, and the tape and film edges straight. Almost all
> the Rivas splices I've seen in rental prints are crooked.
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