Are you re-photographing your film projections with a film camera or a video camera. Regarding the former, I've had TONS of experience re-photographing film projections, particularly with the Eumig Mark 610D, and have never experienced significant flicker. I suppose that is because you are filming a projection that is *falling on a screen*, as opposed to one that is emitted, such as a television monitor. (Regarding the latter, if you re-photograph at 18fps, there shouldn't be any roll bar) If you're re-photographing a film projection, you can do so via a frontal or rear projected image. With frontal projection, you'll align your projector as close as possible to the camera that is doing the filming in order to minimize the key stoning. Of course, you may wish to orient the projector and camera to shoot a trapezoidal, altered image. I recommend using a a matte white piece of 2- ply paper from an art store. At that thickness, you can bend it if you wish, and re-photograph the altered image accordingly. Of course, you can project upon and film off of any white surface, such as a pillow or a paper plate or an egg. I recommend a screen to camera/projection distance of about 3 feet. If the projected image is too 'hot', you'll blow out the details. I prefer rear projection. First, I create a free standing screen by attaching drafting velum around a frame made to stretcher bars, 'stretched' around the perimeter as you would a painting canvas. Then I bounce the projection off a mirror at a 45-degree angle, and film from the other side of the velum. This method has several advantages: 1) no projector bulb hot spot, 2) no key stoning (unless desired), 3) and best of all, you can filter/shape/manipulate the projected image in the space between the projector and the velum. Have fun! Ken PS: Please take a moment to check out my new Kickstarter project:
Mad Dance: A Mental Health Film Trilogy http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/912847805/mad-dance-a-mental-health-film-trilogy
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