Thanks so much, Roger. This is excellent. all the best, Mark Street
On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Roger D. Wilson <rogerdwil...@sympatico.ca> wrote: > This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog. > > Hand Processing 16mm black and white film > Materials for processing film as negative: > > Kodak D-76 Developer (powder) > Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in hardener if you plan to > tint and tone film) > 2 - 4 litre photographic chemical storage containers > 1 Flat-top thermometer > 1 Measuring graduate > 4 - large 10 litre pails (purchase paint mixing pails from Home Depot) > 1 Funnel > 1 Pair rubber gloves > 1 Face mask > 1 Pair scissors > 1 Length of string and clothes pegs > 1 Pair goggles > 1 Photographers loupe > 1 Watch that glows in the dark > > > You should process film in a room that has running water. The room > should also have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to > process the film so the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work > best and most have a ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can > cover it with black foam core or any material that will prevent light from > leaking in. Turn lights off and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust > to the darkness. If you see your hands in front of your face it is not dark > enough. > > Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be careful and use > goggles, rubber gloves and process the film in a well ventilated room. > > Step by Step Instructions > > To develop film as negative: > > 1. Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on packaging. Store > chemicals in proper photographic storage containers. Label the containers > with contents and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after 1000’ > of 16 film or after it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts longer > so check mixing instructions for how long to store chemicals. > > 2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I allow the > chemicals to sit until they get to room temperature before I start to > process film. Kodak recommends processing the film in developer that is > between 20 and 24 degrees Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the > shorter the develop time. > > 3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails. Pour into the > first pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside it with > water. In the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth pail > with water. > > 4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix light leaks > before processing film. > > 5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of exposed 16mm film > out of its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film you wish to > process. The less you process at a time the cleaner your results will be > (less scratches and unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be > processing back into film can and secure it so light does not expose it > when you turn the lights back on. > > 6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the D-76 > developer, continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually > process black and white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I > recommend doing your own tests as well because this also depends on how you > expose your film in camera. > > 7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and dunk in water > and rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes. > > 8. At 2 minute point pull film out of water and dunk in Rapid Fixer. > Agitate the film in the Fixer for 4 to 6 minutes. > > 9. After the film has been fixed pull it out and place it in the final > water rinse. At this point you can turn the lights back on. I usually rinse > the film for at least 20 minutes, replenishing the water a couple times. > > 10. After rinsing hang the film up on a string to dry. > > 11. After the film has completely dried find tail end and roll back onto > spool/core. > > 12. Exposure times using G-3 Morse Tank and D-76 Developer > > Developer 8 minutes: 8 passes through tank (1 pass would be transferring > entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take about a > minute. > > Rinse in water 6 minutes: I like to really rinse my film off well so > that my chemicals last longer. I fill the tank up with fresh water between > each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire roll > of film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I do > this three times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on > how fast you turn handle. > > Fix in Kodak Rapid fixer 12 minutes: 12 passes through tank (1 pass > would be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass > should take about a minute. > > Final Rinse in water 25 minutes: Rinse film off well because any fix > left on film will leave white marks behind. I fill the tank up with fresh > water between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring > the entire roll of film from one reel to the other and then back again to > first reel). I do this eight times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in > total depending on how fast you turn handle. > > Sent from Outlook <http://taps.io/outlookmobile> > > > > > On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 12:59 PM -0700, "Mark Street" < > mstreet...@gmail.com> wrote: > > ooops forgot to change the subject heading on this.... > > Hey Party Animals, > I plan on processing some 16mm Tri X reversal (as negative) in a bucket > in my basement next week. Haven't done this in years. Can someone point > me to a fairly current guide to how to do so? Of course, I realize it'll > be mostly trial and mostly error.... But a start (chemistry, times etc etc) > would be appreciated. > > all the best, > > Mark Street > *www.markstreetfilms.com <http://www.markstreetfilms.com>* > > On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Mark Street <mstreet...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hey Party Animal, > I plan on processing some 16mm Tri X reversal (as negative) in a bucket > in my basement next week. Haven't done this in years. Can someone point > me to a fairly current guide to how to do so? Of course, I realize it'll > be mostly trial and mostly error.... But a start (chemistry, times etc etc) > would be appreciated. > > all the best, > > Mark Street > *www.markstreetfilms.com <http://www.markstreetfilms.com>* > > On Sun, Jul 26, 2015 at 12:47 PM, Michael Betancourt < > hinterland.mov...@gmail.com> wrote: > > I have a piece on Joshua Gen Solondz's flicker film *Prisoner's Cinema* > that's up on Bright Lights Film Journal. > > > http://brightlightsfilm.com/technology-and-transcendence-on-joshua-gen-solondzs-prisoners-cinema-2012/#.VbT60vlViko > > Michael Betancourt > Savannah, GA USA > > > michaelbetancourt.com > twitter.com/cinegraphic | vimeo.com/cinegraphic > www.cinegraphic.net | the avant-garde film & video blog > > _______________________________________________ > FrameWorks mailing list > FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com > https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks > > > > > _______________________________________________ > FrameWorks mailing list > FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com > https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks > >
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