June 4, 2011
Not J.R.’s Kind of Town By BEN FOUNTAIN
Dallas 

THE Ewings are back: any day now the idiots will begin filming a revival of
“Dallas,” the further adventures of J. R. and his swaggering clan, where
everything happens on the grand scale. Big deals, big egos, big hair, big
bosoms, big and bigger to the nth degree. For locals, that’s what made the
show such wicked fun, cringing and snorting as the city’s most cherished
clichés got abused in ever more hamfisted ways. 

If the new version is anything like the original, “Dallas” will stick to the
city’s swankier haunts, where glitz and rigorous body-sculpting reign
supreme. You can bet we won’t be seeing much of Oak Cliff; driving those
leafy, somewhat scruffy streets, you’d be hard pressed to find the Starbucks
and Pottery Barns that saturate the city’s trendier spots. 

What you will find is an abundance of 1920s and ’30s low-rise buildings and
the sight of — gasp! — actual pedestrians within the Dallas city limits.
Then there are the architectural gems that have survived despite decades of
blight and neglect, or maybe thanks to neglect — in Dallas’s sexier
precincts, the interesting stuff tends to get razed to make way for the next
big deal. 

The Kessler Theater is one such gem, an Art Deco beauty that was once owned
by the singing cowboy, Gene Autry, but has since fallen into disrepair. “I
lusted after this property for 10 years,” says the newish owner, Edwin
Cabaniss. “It was like the sirens calling me.” 

Mr. Cabaniss, a fifth-generation Texan, worked for various finance behemoths
after graduating from college in 1991, but by 2008 he was ready for a
change. “The cracks were starting to show in the whole financial system,” he
said. “There was a bunch of stuff happening in New York that I didn’t have
any control over. So I decided to make a 180-degree turn in my life and go
hyperlocal.” 

Hyperlocal meant buying the Kessler, by then little more than four walls and
a pile of dirt. Since its heyday as a movie palace in the 1940s, it had been
used as a church and a sweatshop, sorely damaged by the notorious tornado of
1957, then gutted by fire several years later. And aside from two tenants in
the streetfront retail space — a beauty salon and a legal aid center — the
structure had been vacant for 30 years. 

But Mr. Cabaniss saw potential. By adding his wife’s dance studio to the two
existing tenants, he could carry the debt service and still have 80 percent
of his building left for other uses. Then he discovered that the theater was
grandfathered under pre-1970s zoning rules, eliminating the need for
large-scale public parking, a requirement that had stymied previous would-be
renovators. 

“That’s when I realized I could turn the Kessler back into what it once was,
a performance space and community gathering spot,” Mr. Cabaniss said. 

Finding financing amid the meltdown was “an experience,” Mr. Cabaniss noted
— he had a relationship with Wachovia until that venerable bank imploded —
but eventually a small bank based in Waxahachie came through for him. 

He also persuaded a veteran music promoter named Jeff Liles to be artistic
director. Mr. Liles, a sleepy-eyed Dr. Pepper addict with grizzled blond
dreadlocks, had just returned to his native Dallas from Los Angeles, but he
was skeptical. “As far as I could see, live music was pretty much dead in
Dallas,” he says. But Mr. Cabaniss finally won him over. 

Now, 15 months after opening, it’s hard to picture the cavernous pigeon
roost that the pair started with. The main performance space has been
restored with a sprung-maple floor, a wraparound balcony and unobstructed
sightlines from every seat. The lobby and bar feature sleek Art Deco lines,
and the three-story glass-brick facade gives off a cool, come-hither glow. 

At night the Kessler offers live music; during the day, some 200 children
come through every week for dance classes, guitar and piano lessons and
gymnastics, and at 8 a.m. on Sundays the Church of the Cliff holds services.


The original tenants have been joined by a surveillance equipment company
and an independent bookstore. The theater has had a spillover effect, too:
in the past year, seven businesses have opened within 100 yards of the
Kessler, including a barbecue restaurant, a grocery store and a vintage
clothing boutique. 

Meanwhile, Big-Deal Dallas continues to struggle. The vast plan to renovate
the Trinity River area with parks and a billion-dollar tollway is going
nowhere fast. Budget pressures are chipping away at the city’s plans for a
trio of “marquee” bridges, and the Riverfront Boulevard “gateway” project is
looking D.O.A. 

Who knows — maybe the Ewings can bring some of their big-deal magic back to
Dallas once again? In your dreams. Meanwhile, for a slice of real life,
there’s always the Kessler. 

Ben Fountain is the author of the forthcoming novel “Billy Lynn’s Long
Halftime Walk.” 



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