On Thursday, June 2, 2005, at 04:04 PM, James Fraser wrote:
on 5-30-05 10:56 AM, Peter Schaff at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
themselves. I'm sure you can find a keyboard remapping utility to do
that if the signals sent are different. Have you tried a keyboard
remapping program?
Actually, that's what I was wondering about uControl. Meg said that
she had
corresponded with the author(s), but they just told her to "get a
really
good USB keyboard." Was the stumbling block there the fact that
uControl
couldn't differentiate between two identical spacebar keys or ???
Maybe
there's a hack.
I each spacebar switch sends the same signal to the keyboard processor,
then the only way to do it would be what someone here suggested to
physically cut the left switch out of the circuit and add it to the
backspace key switch. This is advanced work, for sure. I would never
attempt it myself. It might cost $100 or more.
Re: Keyboard remapping, a better approach for this limited use would
probably be a "hot keys" utility which recognizes the left spacebar
switch (if it IS separate). I don't know of a way to check if the left
spacebar has a separate signal except trying to reprogram it, and then
there are 2 variables. It it works, you've got it, if it doesn't you
won't know if it's the keyboard or the software.
Are you talking about the thin metal rod that's used to keep the key
travel perpendicular? On this keyboard it's used for the shift keys,
the space bar, and probably the Enter key (any key that's long enough
to be tilted if pressing it on one side or the other)? If so, they
can
probably be put back together easily from the outside (without
disassembly), but they're tricky.
Drat. I biffed this with a M0116 keyboard (the one that shipped with
the
Mac SE). Took the space bar off to get at a crumb and...
This applies only if the parts are still intact, of course. If this
applies,
just keep trying, you'll get it eventually. ;^)
So is the "secret" for these to simply lift the wire bar up until it's
straight, then try to (delicately) put the key back on and hope for the
best?
I was hoping there was a special "trick" for this, but it sounds like
it's
just a matter of trial and error. Has anyone on the list been able to
successfully fix this problem? Or is the 'board a write-off for all
practical purposes?
Best,
James Fraser
Hi James,
Most of my experience has been with Amiga keyboards, but just tried on
the Adessa keyboard I have here (you know, the ergo job that Meg is
interested in? I'm looking for software to checkout the split spacebar
mapping, Meg) and it's the same, but YMMV. Anyway, with the ones I've
worked with, the "trick" is to install the rod on the key first, then
insert the metal bar "feet" into the little tracks provided for them
(the tricky part - you can't see very well), then seat the key in the
switch and push it home.
Keyboards, especially newer ones, have been engineered to the nth
degree and have eliminated all "fluff" from the design, and it's fairly
easy to break things in this process. Don't force it and you should be
OK. When you get it right, it just "goes on". The little tit (can I
say that here? ;) on the bottom of the key that goes into the switch
tower is especially prone. With the Adessa keyboard, after a few trips
to the floor (don't ask) there were numerous casualties. Some would
stay "sortof"; others required a CAREFUL dab of superglue to stay put.
All the "strain relief" mechanisms strangely survived. I finally went
back to my M$ Natural (ergo) which has been in near constant service
for 5+ years with nary a whimper.
Personally, I don't care for the split space bar (confusing) but I'm
sure you could get used to it in time. It took by about 3 years to get
used to the ergo, so I'm a slow learner. ;)
Hope this helps.
- Peter Schaff
PM: 1GHz DP/1 GB/160MB/10.2.8
iMac: 600MHz/768MB/40GB/10.2.8
PB: 3400C/9.1
Brother HL-1870N laser, Epson 785EPX, Epson 2450 scanner
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