On Jul 6, 2014, at 6:43 PM, 'MarbleMyke' via G-Group <[email protected]> wrote:
> While upgrading an eMac found in the alley, accidentally broke the power > button. A source on the internet (not this list) suggested using an original > USB keyboard with a power button from an iMac G3. I bought one for 10 bucks > but it didn't work. Does someone know why? It wouldn't power on the iMac G3 I > tried it with, either. This isn't one of those pram battery things, is it? I > want to have the facts before I return the keyboard as nonfunctional. G3 iMacs came in two generations: the first generation had a tray-loading optical drive; the second generation had a slot-loading optical drive. All of the first-generation G3 iMacs could be powered on by pressing either the power button on the keyboard or the power button on the front of the iMac. This setup continued with the second-generation G3 iMacs, but stopped with the advent of the 500 MHz models, if I remember correctly. From that model on, G3 slot-loaders will start only with the front panel power button. That's probably why it wouldn't work with the iMac G3 you tried. And that keyboard definitely will not start any other Mac. The power button for an eMac is a fragile, fragile thing. Anyone who's ever taken the case off an eMac will tell you it's a dicey bit of dexterity to hold the loosened case up with the left hand while reaching in through the opening to grab the tiny plastic connector and disconnect the wiring without putting stress on the tiny wires or the switch itself. Alas, all too often there is stress inadvertently applied, which cracks the brittle female port. As time goes by, the power button begins to come apart under the pressure of finger push after finger push after finger push. This causes the button to make it harder and harder to start until, one day, no amount of pushing will cause the clicker inside the button to make contact and complete the startup circuit. Finito power button. There is no way to repair the broken plastic and the broken solder connections. I know, I've tried. The only fix is to get another power button. I've obtained some over the years by posting a WANTED or WTB on LEM-Swap. New ones are almost impossible to find, and are very pricey when you do find one. Used ones may or may not be on the way to failing, if not from use, then from the brute force necessary to push the plastic female connector through a silver metal clamping grommet in order to break the glue seal holding the switch to the outside of the case. Lots and lots of eMacs are being recycled these days. Your best bet is to find another one with a working power switch and simply swap the entire case. You'll need a 2.5 mm allen wrench and a Phillips screwdriver to loosen all the fasteners. Slap the case to loosen it from the bottom groove around the front bezel, then lift the case and peer in at the power button connector. It takes two fingers to pinch the connector and pull it out. If you pull on the wires, your chance of breaking it is better than 50-50. It's a fiddly job. Good luck! Jim Scott, Eureka, CA -- -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "G-Group" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
