The gaze of strangers: Morocco, male love and modernity     KA Dilday
  
 

  The new-media exposure of homosexual activity in the Muslim world highlights 
the paradoxes of its collision with modernity, says KA Dilday. 
   
  30 - 01 - 2008
    

  
 
  In December 2007, the Moroccan court of justice sentenced six men to jail 
terms of between two and ten months for the crime of homosexuality. The men had 
been filmed participating in a mock wedding of two men in the northern town of 
Ksar el-Kebir. Moroccans saw the video on the internet: someone, and than many 
people, loaded what appeared to be low-quality mobile-phone videos of the 
ceremony onto You Tube.
  YouTube has become the Moroccan samizdat. Moroccans post videos of officials 
accepting bribes, and of all the things that are forbidden in the establishment 
press. It is likely that the video was posted by someone friendly to the 
guests, but once it was in cyberspace it was available to everyone. 
  In Morocco as in most Muslim countries (and many non-Muslim countries across 
the world), homosexuality is technically a crime. But in truth being gay isn't 
the taboo in Morocco. Refusing to live in the shadows is. Morocco isn't like 
Egypt where the police actively hunt gay men by luring them with internet ads 
and arresting them when they turn up for a meeting. The man who received the 
harshest sentence in Morocco was already a well-known gay figure in the town. 
The men were prosecuted because the video was so prominent. After it became 
popular on You Tube, an Islamist faction held an anti-gay rally in the village 
and attacked one of the men featured in the video at his home. Imams and other 
religious figures likely insisted that the men in the video be punished to 
remind Moroccans not to get too cocky in flouting the religious stipulations 
which form a large part of Moroccan law. 
  "Moroccans are the greatest comedians in the world", Abdellah Taia told me, 
using the French word for actor. Before the trial, the novelist Abdellah Taia 
was famous as the only gay person in Morocco. Other gay Moroccan writers have 
used pseudonyms or initials to protect their identities. In 2006, the Moroccan 
press called Taia, "the first Moroccan to have the courage to publicly assert 
his difference", after he acknowledged that he is gay when questioned about his 
sexuality by a Moroccan newspaper reporter. Taia is certain that his family 
knew he was gay but they suffered when the news became public because Taia had 
broken the unspoken taboo. 
  "Have you lost your mind", his mother asked him, "Saying these things which 
are not said?" Gay Moroccans are expected to marry and have families and if 
they pursue their desires at all, it should be discreetly. 
  I've often written about the illusions societies build and the private 
illusions we reserve for ourselves: the acts of writing, photographing, 
filming, force people to confront these illusions. Homosexuality has been an 
open part of Moroccan culture for centuries even as it remains taboo. One of 
Arabic literature's most famous poets, the 8th-century writer Abu Nuwas, wrote 
paeans to his gay lovers. 
  "I die of love for him, perfect in every way, 
  Lost in the strains of wafting music. 
  My eyes are fixed upon his delightful body 
  And I do not wonder at his beauty. 
  His waist is a sapling, his face a moon, 
  And loveliness rolls off his rosy cheek 
  Also in openDemocracy on Moroccan politics and society:

Nelcya Delanoe, "Morocco: a journey in the space between monarchy and Islamism" 
(5 February 2003)

Nelcya Delanoe, "Morocco and Spain: united by tragedy?" (25 March 2003)

Ivan Briscoe, "Dreaming of Spain: migration and Morocco" (27 May 2004)

Rashi Khilnani, "How Morocco's free media is silenced" (19 April 2006)

Yto Barrada, "Morocco unbound: an interview" (17 May 2006)

Gregor Noll, "The Euro-African migration conference: Africa sells out to 
Europe" (14 July 2006) 
  I die of love for you, but keep this secret: 
  The tie that binds us is an unbreakable rope. 
  How much time did your creation take, O angel? 
  So what! All I want is to sing your praises." 
  Nuwas lived in Baghdad and is honoured with a statue and grand boulevard. 
Taia remembers studying these poems in school. But this is consistent with the 
complicated relationship with homosexuality, and with culture and learning in 
the Muslim world (see Brian Whitaker, Unspeakable Love: Gay and Lesbian Life in 
the Middle East [Saqi, 2006]). The conundrum of Morocco is mirrored in many 
Muslim countries. It is two countries; one rich, well-travelled and at home 
with western culture; the other, poor, poorly educated, conservative and 
devoutly Muslim. Rich Moroccans attend university in Europe or America and 
return to Morocco with the coveted foreign degree and a taste for western 
culture. Legally, Morocco is a conservative Muslim country with a penal code 
rooted in sharia law, but women in rich neighbourhoods wear the latest 
revealing European fashions and go about with uncovered heads. The wealthy 
serve alcohol at parties; they invite gay people into their homes. In poor
 districts, the public attire for women is a foulard and a shapeless djellaba, 
the loose-fitting garment Moroccans wear to cover their clothes. 
  When Abdellah began attracting notice, the (Islamist) Justice and Development 
Party (PJD) complained in its official newspaper that the news media gave him 
too much attention. Readers wrote to the magazine, calling him a zamel, a 
derogatory word for gays in Moroccan Arabic. They said that if Morocco were 
truly a Muslim country, Taia would be stoned. 
  People cringed when the Iranian president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad told an 
Columbia University audience in September 2007 that there were no gay people in 
Iran. In recent years, gay men as young as 17 have been publicly executed in 
Iran for the crime of homosexuality. Taia said that had he revealed his 
homosexuality in another Muslim country he would have been banned and the 
newspapers that covered him censured. The king that inherited Morocco's throne 
in 1999 has tried to make the country more liberal. But this latest news about 
the trial changes how Taia feels about Morocco. It no longer seems progressive, 
but dangerous. 
  A far country 
  It's a strange paradox that in some cases the regard of others protects 
people and in some it endangers them. While the regard resulted in men being 
persecuted in Morocco, another case in December 2007 at the opposite end of the 
Arab world - in the United Arab Emirates - showed publicity's other face. 
There, three local men were found guilty of raping Alexandre Robert, a male 
French teenager. But until Robert's mother, a journalist, used all of her 
resources to focus international attention on the case, Robert had to leave the 
country because he was at risk of being prosecuted for homosexuality; and the 
authorities were uninterested in prosecuting his attackers. Robert's mother 
took the story to papers in the United States, Britain and France in addition 
to involving the government. Only then were the attackers charged and 
prosecuted. 
  Abdellah Taia's writing has made him famous in Europe. His books have been 
translated into Spanish and Dutch, and he is featured in newspapers across the 
continent. In Morocco itself, Taia's European success has made him a welcome 
guest in the salons of the wealthy, a long way from the poor neighbourhood 
where he grew up, and the last place, Taia, who is proud of his origins, only 
ever wanted or expected to find welcome and acceptance. But he's fortunate that 
this fresh challenge finds him caught between two worlds rather than trapped in 
jail. Taia, who lives in Paris, admits that coming out in Morocco was easier 
for him because he knew he could leave the country and return to France. 
  Human Rights Watch, Amnesty International and other organisations have called 
for the six jailed Moroccans to be freed. Their jail terms are short, and 
likely they will quietly be released in a few months with their conviction 
serving as a reminder to gays in Morocco to remember their place, which is in 
the shadows. It will also serve as a harsh rebuke from the imams to the 
Moroccan public, a reminder of their reach. 

       
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