Thanks for supplying many of the details for which I've been searching within
this and subsequent posts re pumice! Hope you've the time to scroll through
this post you've written for a few particulars :>))
In a message dated 12/8/00 8:45:56 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Elizabeth,
if you do not have a copy of Henkel and Schmidt's "Geckos" by Krieger
Publishing, you might consider obtaining a copy. There is adequate
coverage of O. castlenaui in this book.
I bought a copy of this text at the time I purchased my Oedura
castelnaui...did not find details to the extent that you've so generously
provided. Is the species entire common name Northern Velvet Ocellated Gecko
or is the "Ocellated" a different species?
In captivity, O. castlenaui adapts to a number of conditions, but generallywhich are anticipated to breed the following year.
speaking these animals do not require the degree of heat that many other
Aussie species do. Temperatures which fluctuate between 70-75 (evening) to
82-87 F. (day) will be adequate during the active season. Personally, I
hibernate all animals
Hibernate females as well as males?
This is achieved by gradually reducing the temps. during the months of
Nov/Dec until the parameters of 57-65 (night) - 65-70 (day) are reached.
Are they particularly fussy about Nov/Dec? Is there flexibility here as long
as one does it for 6-8 weeks? Is darkness a factor? Am new to the
particulars of hibernation. Do they eat during that time?
Keeping the animals within this range for around 6-8 weeks will be
sufficient for fueling success in the coming spring. It is my opinion that
excessive vitamins/minerals in the diet may be detrimental to the
reproductive quality of both sexes. The diet is straightforward....anyt
More about excessive vitamin/mineral supplementation, please. What do you
recommend as proper v/m supp for the Northern Velvet Geckos? Proper diet in
captivity?
hing that moves. Humidity is not too much of a priority, although I tend
to keep them a little bit dry with a moist hide/egg-laying site. Females
Ideal substrate mixture for cage? for hide/egg-laying?
are typically at their reproductive prime during the 1st - 3rd breeding
seasons. During this time it may be necessary to separate the pairs so
that the females do not continue laying eggs into the oncoming winter.
Females, and males for that matter, seem to breed better at an age of
about 2 years. Certainly yearling animals are capable of breeding, but
frequently they suffer to high degrees of infertility, poorly shaped eggs,
egg-binding (this may also be aggravated by improper supplementing), and a
low number of clutches produced. The properties of the eggs, incubation
conditions, and offspring are essentially typical of the sub-family
Diplodactylinae (soft, oblong eggs, moisture required for proper
egg-development, etc.).
Overall, this is an undemanding species as long as the above issues are
adhered to. There are a number of them bred yearly in the US, and with a
number of interesting color phases. Fortunately, in the past year there
have also been an increased number of bloodlines brought into the US, an
Who has the new bloodlines brought into the US recently and the particularly
interesting color phases? Am looking for a mate for my 15 month old male who
descended from het. amel. parents.
important issue for a species that has been bred routinely since 1983 in
the US. I first bred them back in the mid 80's, so I am sure new
bloodlines are a much needed new resource.
Strangely, at present it seems that few are being bred. The reason
mystifies me. They can be quite prolific creatures!
Such big eyes, too!
Jon
Many thanks!
:>) Elizabeth
Seattle,Washington
we'll hold the sign of the beagle high, and love will shine right through."
Snoopy for President...the Royal Guardsmen, 1968
