First off, I don't know of anyone who has had nothing but success with Uroplatus.  A number of people have had success, but everyone will tell you of their failures as well.  I guess I shouldn't speak for others, but my relative success has been periodically interupted by some heartbreaking and frustrating failures.

In terms of U. henkeli.  I have hatched out a fair number of these animals this year, from two different pair.  I believe I have had better success from one pair over the other, but think that I may have solved that problem.  I have incubated at 78-80 F.  I do believe that a temperature around 75 would also work fine, though the term may be slightly longer than 90 days.  Some of my hatchlings do not survive.  Basically, if the animal fails to complete its first shed, it is too weak and will perish.

One pair of offspring is now at the subadult age, and as of a week ago, is said to be doing quite well.  I have a second pair here that are thriving after about 2 months, a 3 month old female that I have not kept up with after selling her, and three hatchlings, though one is weak.

I also sold a pair to a friend.  They were about one month old at the time.  One of the two died after about an additional month.  We still do not know why, and did not have a necropsy done.  I know, I should have, but didn't.

I have also lost about 4 hatchlings shortly after birth, to deformities or weakness.  I have had a few die in the shell.  One thing I can tell you.  The first egg or two that a female produces will be viable but will produce weak hatchlings that will not survive.

In terms of U. phantasticus, I am certainly not the guy to ask.  I believe some previous postings by John Friel gave good general info on incubation temperatures and husbandry of phantasticus.

Lastly, it is widely believed that fluctuating temperatures actually produce a stronger animal.  It is dificult to simulate this with an inexpensive incubator, so we live with what we can provide.  It may be worth removing the eggs from the incubator every so often to allow them to sit at room temp (assuming it is below incubation temperature).  If you have a room that fluctuates between 78 and 70 or so, it may be desireable to sit a deli cup with moist perlite or vermiculite in the room without an incubator.  I have successfully hatched U. sikorae and R. ciliatus this way.

Have I been long winded enough?

Preston

Silas wrote:

I just want to say Thanks to the GGA for all the great info I have gotten so far from this listserve, and also to those who supplied it. This is my first post though I have been a member of the list for a year now, and a member to the GGA for about 4 months, and if your not a member yet�your missing out on some cool stuff provided under the membership here at the GGA!!!!
 
 

I was just pondering theories on Uroplatus incubation, mainly phantasticus and henkeli. Wanted to see if this could pose true or not.

I have asked a few people about breeding henkeli and most said they can get them to hatch but die 1 to 2 months afterwards. What I was thinking, and this is my theory, is the temps to high. Most of the folks I talk to incubate at 75 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit(23 to 25c). I was wondering, while in the egg, if the temps are causing their metabolism to increase faster then they can keep up with physically, i. e. needing nutrient faster then their bodies can allow them to provide for themselves. I have had a trio of henkeli's for a little over a year now.. and have only hatched out 2 so far...one died 5 days after it hatched...and the second one is going on 4 months now, and seems to be a strong, hardy gecko. The second one was incubated at 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit(20 to 21 C). The first one the temps fluctuated due to me moving after the egg was laid, and getting settled in the new house before it hatched. I incubated them in similar conditions....a ten gallon with a submersible heater, in a show box with a little on the dry side perlite...not as wet as you would prepare for leopard geckos. 5 quarter inch holes are in the lid of the shoebox.... I figured the humidity in the air would be great for the eggs, and that's why I went with the ten-gallon tank deal. Currently I have 7 henkeli eggs and 3 phantasticus eggs. Only had the phantasticus for about 3 months now.

So would the slight, but not drastic, change in incubations temp alter the metabolism enough to make the gecko need food faster and in more abundance then its physical abilities allow him? Would cooler temps slow his metabolism down to where he can adjust to hunting at a slow pace, without starving to death?

I know that a good bit of you have had nothing but success with the Uroplatus, but if you could, explain your incubation method�.and maybe brief details as to why you chose that way.Silas Swaimwww.gecko-island.com

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