Rick Gale wrote:
Hey folks.
I'm a semi-newbie to geckos, and love reading this list as a great source of info. I've gone to the archives and I'm having trouble finding an answer to these two questions.
Welcome to our world! ;)
First, I have a pair of adult crested geckos (R. ciliatus) that have produced, to date, one clutch of eggs that have hatched and are both doing fine at about 2.5 months of age. Although the geckos were not in my possession for about a year and a half, I know they layed at least one other clutch of healthy looking eggs (perfectly formed, though by the time I got the geckos, the burried eggs were completely dessicated). The next clutch after the one I successfully hatched was not layed until about 3 months after that clutch, and the eggs were wrinkly. I got them to rehydrate with a couple mistings of water, but they ended up molding. I am surprised that they have not layed more clutches of eggs, as they are supposed to be relatively prolific breeders. They are well fed on dusted crickets (50/50 mixture of Reptical and Reptivite)
Youza, there's one problem there, unless you are really using RepCal with D3 and Herptivite. Reptivite for one has too much preformed vitamin A for gex. Reptical I am not sure of, however, there are many vitamin choices for you that are appropriate and well proven. Allen Repashy, who also makes the TRex Crested Gecko Diet you are using, has a new low D3 supplement (Leopard Gecko ICB - Insect Cricket Balancer) that works well on Rhacs, leos and many other gex.
and, recently, T-Rex Crested Gecko Diet. Before that it was peach baby food with calcium mixed in. No health problems in the 2 years they've been alive. I've observed them mating twice, most recently about a week ago. Last time was several months ago.
So qustion #1 is, any idea why I'm not seeing more eggs? there's only one possible laying site, so it's not that.
I think your eggs dessicated (dried out) or the supplements you were using had an effect on the eggs. Alan tells me you need a shoebox in their terrarium filled with sphagnum peat moss or vermiculite that is moistened a couple times a week. Otherwise they may lay the eggs in dry places. Also be aware that most gex at least slow down on egg laying in the winter season.
My other question is in regards to feeding babyfood or the T-Rex Crested diet. How much would one expect these guys to eat? I can see evidence of the adults having eaten some food from around the edges, but I can't tell whether the babies have eaten any at all. I have hand-fed them by putting some on their noses, but they don't particularly like this and it's a little stressful for me, too. I have observed my adult female eating, but never the male.
Interesting. I am working with Alan closely on the T-Rex foods, which are very nutritious. Let me start out by saying Alan spent tons of time researching the very best ingredients for these foods. His goal was to better approximate what the geckos eat in the natural environment. I think the effect on the Rhacs and Day geckos I have been using this food on since August is profound. All the Rhacs I have are more beefy and the day gex colors are great! I have found the amount of babyfood you put in for each type of gecko is different, the sweeter toothed gex like P. cepediana needing more than a P. robertmertensi or P. v-nigra species. Some of my older Phelsuma look years younger after eating the food!
A few tips about the food, which I would not feed more than 1-2x weekly in the winter to any gecko.
Mix 2:1 water to food, then add your babyfood. Mix well or use a blender-type device for best results. The fiber tends to sink to the bottom! Use a dish to feed that has some depth in it. I know one famous crested gex breeder who was using the lids of the little medicine cups - buzt - wrong! This will dry out before the gex get a chance to eat it. The little medicine cups themselves are better. For Phelsuma or baby Rhacs water bottle cap lids work great. This is too much food if you even fill it 1/2 way for one or two small Phelsuma, however, you need to put this much in to keep it from drying out too quickly. If the gex are not taking your formulation of the food then try adding more babyfood or a different babyfood like apricot. DO NOT supplement the food. It is complete.
So question #2 is, how much (volume-wise) would one expect full-grown ciliatus to eat if fed, say, 4 times a week on this diet. I'm concerned that my male has never taken to eating anything but crickets.
I would not worry about it, try some of the things I mention. Some rhacs are just more cricket oriented too. Turns out my Pine Island leachies no longer want ANY crickets after being put on Alan's diet. My Grand Terres do want both Alan's diet and crickets, same with my R. sarasinorum. The Phelsuma want both Alan's food and crickets, however, I have cut back on crickets (nice side benefit).
Thanks for your help, everyone!
Rick
Anytime!
Julie B.
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