http://showbizandstyle.inquirer.net/lifestyle/lifestyle/view/20090729-217812/French-bistro-food-cooked-by-Filipina
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Confit de Canard (duck confit)


<http://showbizandstyle.inquirer.net/lifestyle/lifestyle/view/20090729-217812/French-bistro-food-cooked-by-Filipina>Country
Cooking
French  food cooked by Filipina

By Micky Fenix
Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 19:24:00 07/29/2009

Filed Under: Restaurants &
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MY CELEBRATION of Bastille Day (July 14) began at 10 in the evening. And the
place was La Cabane on Pasay Road, where the French flag was positioned
right at the door.

The lady of the house was the one cooking, a Filipina married to a
Frenchman.


Evelina Pierdrix cooks French bistro food but the one who approves every
dish is her husband, Thierry. He does not want to change the flavors to suit
the Filipino palate, she said. She learns from her sister-in-law whenever
they vacation in Corsica, although Thierry’s family is also from Lyon,
reputed to be the culinary capital of France. He wishes that they could get
the Corsican sausages and other cheese he knows will make a difference, but
they will work with what is available and do it the French way.

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Evelina and Thierry Pierdrix


Accompaniments were fried potatoes (pommes frites) or potato gratin with
hints of cheese, or salad greens baptized with a bit of dressing. There were
no adornments to distract.

The confit de canard was fried perfectly, the duck leg crisp outside and
tender inside and not too salty. The beouf bourguignon was what one would
expect of stew that’s been slow-cooked, the wine melding into the sauce and
the beef tender.

I liked the skewered grilled lamb because it was light, cut thinly. The
salads were what you would expect from French bistros—sufficient in volume
with dressings that don’t overwhelm the leaves, a palate cleanser just in
case you eat the French way by having it at the end of the meal.

*Steak tartare*

My Bastille Day discovery was the steak tartare. I rarely have this because
not many restaurants offer this or do this properly (Le Soufflé Rockwell
does). The chopped raw beef was seasoned perfectly (although my French
friend wanted it spicier) and it was great with the fried potatoes.

And now to the wines. Thierry chooses what the restaurant carries according
to Evelina. He will not sell what he thinks doesn’t make the grade even if
the distributor is a friend, she said.

But if there’s one thing that will keep me going back to the place, it’s the
lemon pie (tarte au citron). It isn’t too tart, it’s light and is perfect
with coffee or tea.

But what does “la cabane” mean? It’s what country wooden houses are called
in France. The exterior doesn’t show it and the sign outside is nondescript,
but inside, it does have a homey atmosphere with wooden tables and chairs
with natural though colored finish. An area dominated with sofas and low
tables can be a function room or a place where one can have just wines and
appetizers like tasty terrines. The restaurant is also a display area of
Thierry’s other business, furniture export.

La Cabane Resto Bar is located at 1020 A. Arnaiz (Pasay Road), across Park
Square. Call 844-0377/843-8813.

E-mail [email protected].
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Tarte au Citron (lemon pie)




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