For My Valentine, Food To Fall In Love With: The Best Damn Chicken Rice In
Manila (part of an ongoing V-day
series)<http://dessertcomesfirst.com/archives/2308>

Fri, February12th of 2010


4:29 am

[image: chicken rice
set]<http://www.dessertcomesfirst.com/wp-content/uploads/chicken-rice-set.jpg>

I’m trying to remember when I last ate something so good I cursed every
bite.

What is Hainanese chicken rice but simply boiled chicken, boiled rice, and
sauces? Well, it’s not that simple, really.

Chicken rice is Singapore’s de facto national
dish<http://dessertcomesfirst.com/archives/417>,
one that was brought to the city-state by immigrants from Hainan, China. So
common and loved is it that it’s attained a particular level of cult status
(at least in Asia) where everyone fancies himself/herself an expert on who
makes the best chicken rice and/or where to get it.

I am no exception. In Manila, the best – and I do mean the BEST – chicken
rice is made by *Stevie Villacin*. The former Finance and Accounting
executive spent all of 2007 in Singapore ostensibly to work but ended up
doing everything but; one of these activities included attending a short
course on traditional Singaporean chicken dishes. “I so loved chicken rice
that I spent one week visiting [local hawker bible] Makansutra’s top-rated
chicken rice joints.” He remembers, laughing in a delightfully
self-conscious manner. “My chicken rice recipe is based on what I considered
the best qualities of all those…”

Though his two-year course in ISCAHM confirmed that a newfound career in
culinary was for him, it wasn’t until last Christmas that his calling became
clear. His cousin asked him to make a chicken rice set for her that she
wanted to give to a friend. Prior to this, Stevie had only been cooking the
chicken rice for designated family get-togethers, et al. “I didn’t even know
how to cost it out or anything but I just did it anyway,” he recalls. That
lucky recipient was Ingrid Go, a bag blogger who liked the chicken rice so
much that she blogged about it. Orders started coming in the very next day.

[image: chicken rice
chicken]<http://www.dessertcomesfirst.com/wp-content/uploads/chicken-rice-chicken.jpg>

Stevie uses chickens that weigh 1.4 kilos or more – any smaller and they dry
up during cooking. Though I die to know how he cooks his chicken rice, I can
only tell you how the traditional version (or at least one of them) is made.
One whole chicken goes through a process of being boiled in chicken stock
then plunged into ice water (a technique that smoothens the skin) and then
back into the stock for a total cooking time of one hour. Next, raw rice
grains that have been pre-fried in anything from custom-made chicken sauces
and/or pandan leaves with ginger, are then cooked in the now-immensely
flavorful stock. When the rice is cooked, the chicken is cut up and served
along with the rice and a bevy of sauces.

[image: chicken rice
~sauces]<http://www.dessertcomesfirst.com/wp-content/uploads/chicken-rice-sauces.jpg>

The chicken rice set that Stevie offers consists of 5 cups of rice – the
traditional rice cooked in stock and topped with green onions *or* a version
mixed with minced black olives (see photo). Of course there’s the chicken,
so succulent it inspires drools all around plus four sauces: *sweet soy* (dark
and thick), *chili*(very yellow and not at all spicy), *ginger sauce *(smashed
ginger with sesame oil), and what Stevie calls his *topping sauce*. “I
needed a ‘glaze’ of sorts to prevent the chicken from drying out since
people are sometimes delayed in picking up their order,” Stevie explains.
“All they need to do is pour the sauce over the chicken.” Hmm, what I do is
mix all four of the sauces together, throwing in two *siling labuyos* for
fire.

[image: chicken rice
(2)]<http://www.dessertcomesfirst.com/wp-content/uploads/chicken-rice-2.jpg>

Stevie’s chicken rice is, in a word, tremendous. Perfectly cooked just ‘til
the chicken loses all pinkness, every bite yields a flood of juice that’s
salty-sweet carrying the nuance of the sauces, a permutation that changes
depending on which sauce(s) one chooses. Then there’s the rice: at times
sticky but most often separate grains that are softly springy, it’s easy to
polish off two or three cups of the stuff then wonder why there’s none left.
Pair the chicken and the rice and sauces with the cilantro, tomato, and
cucumber garnishes, and I can almost guarantee that you’ll be letting loose
a litany of curses the way I did.

*~~*

*Stevie Villacin’s Hainanese chicken rice*
P950/set good for 4-5 people (but I say good for 3-4).
Pick-up only in Bel-Air Village, Makati.
For orders, call (906) 5084155.
-- 
spanx' blog:
http://spankyenriquez.blogspot.com/

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