Geany uses a normal GTK toolbar and sets the 
[`primary-toolbar`](https://developer.gnome.org/gtk3/stable/GtkStyleContext.html#GTK-STYLE-CLASS-PRIMARY-TOOLBAR:CAPS)
 class on it, as expected for main toolbars.  The theme is then responsible for 
styling it as it sees fit.

I'm not very surprised a theme would style the toolbar (and menubar) dark, as 
many themes do it.  I don't think this is a bug in Geany; but please make sure 
Geany is the only GTK3 application with a toolbar that is styled this way: if 
it's the case, we might need to further track this down.

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