Well, Mint and Mint's themes work pretty well, my toolbars are 1cm high,  (and 
they match gtk2 and gtk3) but of course its a stable/LTS distro so you don't 
have the churn you mentioned.  Opensuse IIUC is a rolling release so churn is 
normal.  Interesting they are providing a GTK3 release, I thought only Arch was 
doing that (and, well, you EXPECT Arch to be bleeding edge :)

No you can't swap from GTK2 to GTK3, they are not binary compatible, or even 
compile API compatible, apps have to be compiled with one or the other.

I'm afraid all you can do is have a go at overriding the theme for Geany using 
GTK3 not-quite-CSS as I call it.

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