Dear all,
Thank you for the numerous helpful response regarding Goa Archives. I did 
indeed visit the Goa Archives. I arrived at 10am and sat patiently for an hour. 
Eventually someone recognised me as the writer and hastened my entry into the 
archive hall. This office defied any semblance of modernity and had an 
estranged relationship with technology. By some antediluvian method, I ordered 
a documented assisted by person who recognised me. I then took a seat and 
awaited said document. I sat in a hall full of men who pored over centuries-old 
documents with their arms spread on these books, brandishing felt pens, the 
documents spine straddled without support. After I saw this, I felt nausea 
creeping up and tried to avoid eye contact with anyone, most of all the clerks 
in the room. 
I sat for another one hour and could see all the peons chatting but no document 
had arrived. I went to the head clerk and asked about the possible arrival of 
my book. He nodded to a peon, they laughed, and one frail creature departed on 
his search with all the enthusiasm of a man being led to the guillotine. 
Finally he returned clutching the holy grail of a book but when I took custody, 
it was the wrong book. I went to tell the manager who sat in a class cabin with 
the surly look of a government officer, pressing a buzzer to summon people. He 
dismissed by not looking up. I did not wait for the right document because had 
it arrived, I could neither photograph it nor photocopy it. I would have to 
make an application for the record and collect it 15 days later. So I left.
Every department, institution and organisation of governance in Goa (and 
unfortunately I have had to visit many) is a failure of efficiency, procedure, 
custody and care. We are light years away from any semblance of modernity and 
our sense of Goan exceptionalism is utterly misplaced.
The story does have a happy ending. The man who recognised me researches 
records for a living and I shall simply hire his services.
Take care,Selma

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