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LUSOPHONE COMMUNITIES... SCATTERED ACROSS THE GLOBE, CAUGHT IN HISTORY
Constantino Hermanns Xavier 

-----------------------------
Xavier is a Portuguese Masters student (International Relations) of Goan
origin. He is editor of Supergoa.com and coordinator of the Forum
Portugal-Goa. He has taken a look at the eight member countries of the
Community of Portuguese-Speaking Countries (CPLP) in a weekly "Global Goan"
column that he has done for the Press in Goa since October 2003. See
http://www.goanobserver.com/globalgoan.htm
-----------------------------

By now we have sailed to all eight member-countries of the Community of
Portuguese-Speaking Countries (CPLP). The Portuguese heritage and impact on
Goa, Daman and Diu is known to most of the readers. So, have we come to an
end of our Lusophone tour? No. The global Lusophone reality is far more than
the institutional setup created with the CPLP. Lusophonia is far more than
just Portugal and the Portuguese language.

It is a common global heritage. There is a larger dimension of small,
semi-diluted and forgotten Lusophone realities scattered around the world.
These communities have the right to be an active part of Lusophonia.  Today
we thus move around five continents to rediscover all these small elements
that compose this Lusophone dimension. 

Anywhere on the coasts of Asia, America and Africa you can still find a
fort, a church, a geographical name or a family name, that come from
Portugal. The Dutch Governor Antonio Van Diemen said in 1642: "Most of the
Portuguese in Asia look upon this region as their fatherland, and think no
more about Portugal". 

This symbolizes an essential particularity of Portuguese colonization.
Within a negative framework of a many-times violent colonization it also
permitted a positive emergence of hybrid identities.  

Let us start in Africa. 

In Senegal, the city of Ziguinchor has the Portuguese Creole language and
names still present. It is located within the region of Casamanse and its
separatist tendencies are many times justified with the fact that it is a
Lusophone society contrasting with Francophone Senegal. 

On the so-called Slave Coast, next to Nigeria, there's the Portuguese Fort
of Sao Joao Baptista de Ajuda (today Ouidah), built in 1680. Many see its
annexation by the Kingdom of Dahomey (now Benin) in 1961 as the beginning of
the end of Portuguese colonial period.  

Further south is the tiny nation of Equatorial Guinea, which has been
seeking to be part of the CPLP and where Portuguese surnames and Portuguese
Creole language exist. We could cross the Atlantic Ocean for Lusophone South
America (and, to a certain extent, North America), but we have visited
Brazil before. 

Let us instead move to the West African coast and visit Kenya. Here there is
a Portuguese discoverers landmark in Malindi (Padrao, from 1498) and in
Mombasa there's the large Forte de Jesus, which was recently renovated by
the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation. 

In neighbouring Tanzania there is the Portuguese fort of Gereza (1505), on
the historical Kilwa Kisiwani island, which is on the World Heritage list.

Contact between the Portuguese and the Africans also influenced the local
Swahili language, which has more than 120 words of Portuguese origin. 

Moving North to the Middle East we have the monumental Portuguese fort of
Hormuz with its impressive underground water cisterns (in present Southern
Iran; first conquered by Afonso de Albuquerque in 1507). There are many more
beautiful 16th century forts in this region, like in Saudi Arabia (Tarut
fort), Oman, Yemen, Bahrain, or even on the Island of Sokotra (now belonging
to Great Britain).

Let us cross the Indian Ocean to Burma and meet the people of Portuguese
descent called "Bayingys". They are Catholics and still live scattered in 13
villages in Sagaing Division in Upper Burma. 

In Bangladesh, there is the Rosary Church in Dhaka, recently renovated along
with its historical Catholic cemetery. Just across the border, in today's
East Bengal, the Kolkata census of 1911 counted 254 Portuguese-speaking
people, 10 Portuguese and 644 Goans.  

Southwards, we have historical Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) with a strong
Portuguese presence that lasted over a century. A Eurasian community
(Portuguese Burghers), Portuguese surnames (Perera, Silva), personal names
(Pransisku=Francisco) and titles (Sinno, Dona), are proofs of this
influence. 

Many of the forts like in Batticaloa (1628), Trincomalee (1624) and Jaffna
(1560) were damaged or demolished during the civil war. Some 250 families in
Batticaloa spoke Portuguese Creole as late as 1984 but its almost extinct
today.  

In Thailand there's still a very small Portuguese community in Bangkok that
descended down from the Ayuthaya period. Most of them changed their surnames
but some still use names like 'Na Silawan' (da Silva) or 'Yesu' (de Jesus).

In Malaysia there is the village of Malacca with a small Eurasian community
(mostly fishermen) which speaks a local Eurasian Creole language named Papia
Kristang (around 1000 people speak it, 95% of its vocabulary is derived from
Portuguese). 

In the Dutch-style St. Peter's church (1710) there is a bell dated 1608
manufactured in Goa.  We have been to the former Indonesian province of
Timor, but there are many other Lusophone communities and heritage in the
largest Muslim country of the world. 

In Bandaneira (Banda), one of the few Portuguese reminders is the metal
ceremonial hat. It is shaped like the Iberian soldier's helmet of the 16th
century, and is worn worn during the kora kora war canoe races. 

In Sikka (Flores), there is a dance named Taja Bobu. It was performed by
Portuguese settlers in the area 400 years and still performed today. On
Saturdays, the women of Larantuka say the rosary in a corrupt form of
Portuguese.  

        Let's now move back to India. Along the Indian shores, there were
        about 44 communities where Portuguese was spoken. But, besides the
        better known Basaim (Vasai), Daman, Diu, Calicut, Cannanore (Kannur)
        and Cochin (Kochi), there is Tarapur, with a Portuguese fort, and a
        Coat of Arms and inscription dated 1593.

If many know that Mumbai was once Portuguese, not many will know that in
busy rail hub Thane there is a Portuguese St John Baptist church with a bell
(72 feet high), which is believed to be the largest amongst the remaining
Portuguese churches in India. 

In this metropolis, in 1906, there were still 5.000 people speaking
Portuguese Creole. There is also a Lusophone heritage in Chaul (Revdanda)
and in Korlai, where besides the fortress and a Portuguese church, there is
a small community (900) that has Portuguese Creole form of as their mother
tongue.  

There are many other places and communities like these on the Indian coastal
regions. Like most of the other small Lusophone communities scattered around
the world, they are stuck in-between the shadow of a distant past Empire and
the basic necessities to survive and keep their traditions alive. While
trying to promote this global heritage, we should avoid transforming them
into mere museum pieces or destroy their historical habitat with
mass-tourism.

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