Greetings all.

Fred Noronha has persuaded me to resubscribe to this
forum, and I'm happy to see some old-time
correspondents still contributing here.

Anyway, I'm back after spending ten extremely hot days
in Goa - coinciding with that BJP national conference.
It was rather interesting to see giant cut-outs of the
leadership of that party on the streets of Panjim, and
to have the view from my car windows literally
saffronized with party flags festooned every few
yards. 

The highlight of every trip to Goa for us is,
naturally, the food. It was mango season, and we made
sure to eat as many as we could get our hands on. And
there was plenty of fish available, especially my
favorite little velhos which I consumed in vast
quantity - entire schools of them disappeared into my
appreciative gullet.

The purpose of this post, however, is to tell you all
about my #1 culinary discovery on this trip to Goa -
the newish little restaurant in Caranzalem called 'O
Cozinheiro'. It takes a little bit of finding, since
it's off the main road and tucked into a corner of
that accessible village, but do persevere.

Here's the thing - Goan restaurants are plentiful but
very few feature cooks who really take pains to
interpret the local cuisine in a meticulous and
attentive manner. I always eat at Florentine, for
example, the now-legendary dive in Saligao, and the
food there is consistently fine, but it isn't
particularly carefully made. The same can be said of
Martin's Corner in Betalbatim in the South of Goa.
Good food, good ingredients, but perhaps lacking in a
certain professional element that could take the food
from simply  good to eye-opening, to world-class.

It is a small irony that Floyd Cardoz has taken New
York somewhat by storm with his elegant and daring
interpretations of Goan (at least Bombay Goan) dishes
with an eye towards haute cuisine, but Goa has lacked
a chef (or chefs, if we want to be greedy) with the
confidence to do something similar at home. 

Now, I'm not comparing a celebrity,
classically-trained, chef like Floyd Cardoz to Joe
Martins of 'O Cozinheiro', and most likely young
Martins would be appalled at the very idea. But let me
put it this way - Cardoz himself would surely like
Martins' food. 

O' Cozinheiro features a menu of straight up Goan
standards, from chicken cafreal to all the various
fish and crab and shellfish dishes, and a range of
starters. Everything is reasonably priced, maybe 10%
more than Florentine but still a fraction of what
you'd pay at a hotel. But what distinguishes its food
from that of any other restaurant I've been to in Goa
is the minute care taken with each ingredient, Martins
is clearly someone who loves his Goan culinary palette
and takes immense pride in displaying in the best
light possible. He carefully marinates and ages his
meats, his fish is prepared with a light and expert
touch. Let me give you this example of his
attentiveness  - not content with the (good) quality
of bread commercially available, Martins makes his own
by going through the arduous process of mixing his
batter and proving it in climate-controlled
conditions, and then making it fresh to serve hot to
his delighted customers. It's the best bread in Goa,
and that's saying something.

Why am I taking the (entirely unsolicited) step of
giving Martins such a public appreciation on the
Internet? Because he should be supported, and because
I am entirely confident that his food will win you
over as it did me. In fact, my first meal there was so
revelatory and singular that I made it a point to
revisit a few days later to re-test. No disappointment
whatsoever.

It's a small restaurant, extremely neat and clean even
though the decor can most charitably be described as
'homey'. But Martins is doing something quite special,
and he deserves to have his efforts rewarded. Go there
the next time you're in Goa, make it a point to have a
meal at 'O Cozinheiro', I am sure that you will be
entirely satisfied by the experience, and I dare say
that you'll wind up as captivated as everyone I know
has been.

I happen to have the address handy  - O Cozinheiro,
Near Football Ground, Caranzalem, Ilhas. Telephone -
228234. Check it out.

VM

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