Margaret Mascarenhas

Mental health-a Goan myth

As I write, a Voyager van has pulled up in front of the outdoor coffee shop
where I'm seated. On the side, it says, "Coconut Creek, Goa's best kept
secret."  The advertisers have got it all wrong. Coconut Creek isn't Goa's
best kept secret. I'll tell you what Goa's best kept secret is: how to
obtain a copy of a birth certificate in Goa without committing yourself and
some other people to the Mental Hospital in the process.

My dad called a couple of weeks ago from America. "Listen, sweetie," he
said, "the paper of my birth certificate is disintegrating. Get me another
one."

"Sure, Dad," I said, "no problem."

I retrospect, I laugh sardonically at my incredible naivete.

Someone pointed me towards the Municipality. But no, that's only for those
born after 1970. Try the Archives, said one of the municipality guys. So
then I went to the Archives. No, they said, we only have those born prior to
1921, try the Sub-registrar. By then I needed some tea. I went over to my
aunt's house, where my cousin told me that once he'd applied for a birth
certificate at the sub-registrar and no one could find the requisite
registry. This turned out to be because some of the registry books were
being utilized as bricks to make one of the staff tables higher. So, I was
not especially looking forward to the next stop in my journey towards Birth
Certificate Acquisition. When I arrived at the Civil Registrar, a man told
me I should return the following morning, because they only accept birth
certificate applications between 9 am and 1 pm. He was very pleasant about
it, though, and my spirits were lifted. "By the way," I said, chattily, as I
was leaving, "Do you have any idea how long it will take to obtain the birth
certificate?"

The pleasant man sighed, "If you don't have the registration number, it
could take up to one month. We sometimes can't find the books."  And,
looking around, I could see why. "The CM came here and said we should be
computerized, but." his voice faded off and he shrugged his shoulders to
indicate his helplessness (or was it hopelessness?) in the matter.

"What do you mean by Registration number?" my father, who has been living in
the Land of Convenience and Instant Gratification for many years, asked. I
explained it was a number that would be somewhere on the birth certificate
in his possession. I was clued in by then. Then he explained. He said maybe
he'd have been able to accommodate my request, had it not been for the
incontrovertible fact that the document in his possession was in bits and
pieces. "That's why I want another one," he said. His tone was that of a
benevolent and tolerant adult speaking to a beloved, but retarded, child.

A few days later, while I was fighting off all the line cutters at the Civil
Registrar in the queue for applying for birth certificates (which is,
thankfully, shorter than the queue for reconnecting your telephone), I met a
mechanic friend of mine who told me he was migrating to Portugal. He was
very excited about his plans. I asked him how long it had taken for him to
process his papers for a Portuguese passport. A few months, he said, and I
was so distracted by his reply, that one of the cutters managed to slip in
ahead of me. The mechanic confided that the entire process had been
expedited because he paid an agent in Lisbon 500 USD to follow up on that
end. That's interesting, I thought, because one of my friends paid a lawyer
around that amount almost four years ago to do the same thing, and she still
hasn't managed to get her documentation in order. She told me her lawyer is
a former High Court judge from Margao, now residing in Lisbon. Now, why a
High Court judge would leave his job in Goa to fiddle around with passport
papers in Portugal (especially when he clearly isn't very good at it), is
beyond me. If you ask me, that surely qualifies for contempt more than
Arundhatti Roy's dabblings in polemics. Personally, I wish Roy would give up
this Noam Chomsky impersonation and stick to fiction which is her forte, but
that's another story.

Meanwhile, I have another date with the Civil Registrar in two weeks. If you
don't hear from me before then, look me up at the Mental Hospital.

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