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IF YOU'RE looking for taste, and not ambience, here's where you could 
seek. Caution -- some of these places are really rough, though tasty:

        o AFLATOON 'HOTEL', near the masjid alongside Alankar
          cinema in Mapusa. Be prepared to share tables with the
          scruffiest of characters and dig into tasty mutton biryani
          (Rs 40), beef biryani (Rs 20), soft parathas (Rs 5), seekh
          kababs (Rs 10) and the rest...This is Muslim-style food.

        o GOAN-STYLE fast-food joints (they run out of adapted
          handcarts) at Santa Cruz (near the church) and
          Miramar (adjoining Clube Gaspar Dias). Meat-based
          sandwitches for Rs 10, tasty and easy-to-carry-away.
          (Couldn't we learn to use less plastic though?) 
          Tasty. Real home-style food at down-to-earth prices.
          No wonder one outlet at Miramar sells 800 bread a day!
          You can also get similarly delicious Goan cooking
          at the roadside in Agaciam (just before the bridge)
          or sausages ('choris-pao') at the Agaciam market.

        o AJANTA, near the Old Panjim Bus Stand, just before you
          new bridge over the Pato creek. Typical Pernem-style
          Goan food. Simple, tasty fish-curry-rice. Spicy too.
          A favourite at our Herald workdays, when riceplates
          were Rs 5 in the mid-eighties. We journos had this joke
          about writing a book 'How To Get The Most For Rs 5 At
          Ajanta'. Now, the standard meal costs Rs 20-25. The special
          dishes (chicken, occasionally crab) are fiery hot and spicy.

        o ALISHA, opposite the new Goa legislative assembly. 
          Both these above come from the cuisine of Hindu Goa 
          (there are some variants among this too, depending on
          region, class and caste).

        o SAROVAR. What can you get for Rs 20? Two parathas, butter-milk,
          three curries, curd, rice, a sweetdish, pickle... Naturally
          crowded in the afternoons. Even more naturally, the waiters
          can be quite friendly; at this value-for-money it hardly hurts 
          to give a five rupee tip (fine by local standards) each time!

        o GENERALLY, almost every Udupi or 'Kamat' restaurant in 
          the state. This cuisine finds its origin outside Goa's borders,
          along the south Karnataka coast. But, what the heck, the food is
          maintains its standards and taste, that even some among the
          local Christian population (who's diet is or has been actually 
          non-vegetarian) have developed a taste for this. 
          Standard meals average Rs 20-30.

        o THE LONE 'shack' (at the time of writing, 2003) on Siridao
          beach. This fishing village is tucked away off the 
          Panjim-Margao highway, just before the Agaciam-Cortalim bridge.
          Fish dishes, it's speciality naturally.

        o 'HOTEL MANGALORE', by the roadside about a kilometre away 
           from  Canacona's main tiny town, Chaudi. (Don't get misled
           by the term 'hotel', this is a roadside eatery. It's close to 
           Char Rasta (literally, Four Roads, the point where they 
           meet)  not to be confused with another restaurant of 
           the same name, that lies closer to the petrol pump. 
           The  2002-end prices were pegged at 'deluxe fish c. rice' 
           (the  'c' is for curry) at Rs 80, a semi-deluxe version 
           for  half that price, and a 'local' equivalent 
           for one-fourth. Obviously chicken is its specialty.  

        o CHECK THE fish preparations of the restaurant that's under
          the bridge at the Cortalim end. Traditional Catholic Goan
          style, good value for money.

        o CAFE PRAKASH, a tiny hole-in-the-wall in Panjim. Near the
          Azad Maidan close to the ferry jetty. Nothing exceptional
          here, except that some of us local journalists consider 
          it to be the  "unofficial" press club of Goa each 
          evening (lots of gossip!) and you could dwadle over 
          a cup of tea (Rs 3) for three  hours. No questions asked! 

FOOTNOTE: This listing has obviously missed out on a number of other 
worthy places which do deserve a listing. The bias favouring Bardez and 
places around Panjim does show due to geographical reasons. Your 
suggestions and tips for enhancing this listing are more than welcome. 
Other candidates include the elderly man at the Parra market, selling Goan 
fast food (boiled eggs, boiled peanuts, etc)...
-- 
Frederick Noronha    : http://www.bytesforall.org : When we speak of free
Freelance Journalist : Goa India 403511           : software we refer to
Ph 0091.832.409490   : Cell 0 9822 122436         : freedom, not price.

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