Forwarding this news article since Goa also has some Sidi population
- Tariq

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/3116817.stm

Hyderabad's African old guard


   By Charles Haviland
BBC correspondent in Hyderabad


The crowing of the cockerel greeted me at Mohammed bin Hassan's immaculate
little house, down a side street in an old quarter of Hyderabad.

We talked while Mohammed's young grandson looked shyly on.

Mohammed, who is in his 70s, is one of Hyderabad's Sidis - a community of
people of African descent.

While some of India's Sidis came as slaves, this southern city's community
has its roots in a troop of guards recruited to serve the Nizams - the old
Muslim dynasty of this one-time princely state.

The story goes that in the 19th century, the 6th Nizam got word of
Africans serving in the court of another Indian nobleman.

Impressed by their qualities, he asked for a batch of Africans to be
brought to Hyderabad. A group of around 300 soon followed.

They included Mohammed's grandfather.

"My grandfather came from British Somaliland, from Hargeisa. My father was
born here," he told me.

Showing me some family photos, Mohammed pointed out his maternal
grandfather and uncle, both of them in the Nizam's African Cavalry Guards
or "AC Guards".

The military staff also included Arabs, but the Nizams had wanted Africans
as bodyguards "because they are loyal, and physically good", he told me.

Also pictured are a number of Ethiopian Christians.

The part of Hyderabad where most Sidis live today is known simply as AC
Guards.

It has a pronounced Muslim feel to it, centred as it is around an old
mosque; Muslim businesses including beef butchers line the lanes.

But also in the neighbourhood is a large church - St Mary's.

In these streets, most people you see are not Sidis. But some of the local
Sidis are highly venerated.

Vivid memories

Mahmud bin Farzullah believes he is at least 100 years old and has South
African ancestry.

He was a guard for the seventh and last Nizam, who lost his powers in 1948
when India, with great violence, took over Hyderabad.

"I used to ride horses, do horse-jumping and the daily parade," he told
me.

"I was also part of the contingent that used to greet the Nizam on his
birthday and present him with gifts."

The last Nizam was extremely eccentric, but for Mahmud, "he was a great
person. He really loved his people."

The memories are equally vivid for a non-Sidi I met - Mir Moazam Hussein,
now nearly 90.

As a member of Hyderabad's old nobility, he and his cousin, as young boys,
used to sit under the Nizam's balcony on the royal birthday for a prime
view of the AC Guards.

"They were the most brilliantly-attired, uniformed men; the men did
justice to the uniform - they were great big dark-skinned men, you know.
And so were their horses!" said Mir Moazam.

He has sweet memories of the AC Guards playing the military band, and of
some of them coming to his boyhood palace selling duck and snipe which
they had shot on Hyderabad's lakes.

The palace had a staff of hundreds, including Sidi women, the female
relatives of the guards, who would check in visitors.

Only Urdu

One man I met, Abu Pahalwan, runs a band of drums which plays at weddings
and sounds unmistakably African.

They have also scored outstanding feats in sport, especially hockey.

But I got the sense that this community had fallen on hard times.

"In the past, people used to respect us," Mahmud bin Farzullah says.

"But now, when they realise we are Sidis, they move away from us. They
don't want to talk to us. And this government gives jobs only to Indians."

Because men vastly outnumbered women in the African immigration to India,
with each generation the African blood is diminished.

I was struck by how much the Sidis have lost touch with their African
cultural roots, apart from perhaps in music.

Many do not even know what part of Africa they are descended from.

"The Ethiopians here speak only Urdu - me too," Mohammed bin Hassan told
me.

But he has no regrets about having lost his Somali culture.

It is the same for Mahmud bin Farzullah.

"Nothing African is left - no music, no clothes; everything is Indian," he
said.

But he does feel sad that more and more young people are marrying outside
the Sidi culture.

The Nizam's Sidi guards were just one in a series of African immigrations
to India over the centuries.

But it was never a mass phenomenon.

And today, you feel privileged to meet and see something of a community
that perhaps, in a few more decades, will be barely discernible as African
at all.

--
Tariq Siddiqui
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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 Rockets Lover!
 Laker Hater !!!
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