http://www.guardian.co.uk/india/story/0,12559,1042180,00.html


                                Heart of darkness

                               As a young backpacker Luke Harding
                               found India charming and eccentric.
                               Fifteen years later he returned as the
                               Guardian's correspondent. Now, after
                               finishing his time there, he recalls how
                               one terrible incident of sectarian violence
                               in Gujarat brought his love affair with the
                               country to an end.

                               Monday September 15, 2003
                               The Guardian


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