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Fun with Fruit Winemaking
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By Nandkumar Kamat

When my ex-research student and present project assistant,
Kumud Phadte pleaded with me to have a sip of wine I was
initially hesitant. "Taste it sir, it is really excellent!" she said.
I sniffed it, then took a sip, closed my eyes to "understand" the
taste and the flavour and instantly I knew that we had met with
success. The wine was superb. Seven other volunteers who
were offered a sample, confirmed it.

Recently we, at the Botany department of Goa University
tasted the success of the first wine made anywhere in the
world from the local adanv or adama fruits (Mimusops kauki,
closely related to Sapota or Chikoo fruits). It is a rare wine
because the fruit itself is rare and not cultivated in large number
anywhere. Besides it is difficult to gather enough number of
fruits to make wine. Fortunately I could get more than a kilogram
of these fruits during March, the fruiting season by booking
my order.

The adanv trees are majestic, shade giving, beautiful, evergreen
trees which are found near the churches in coastal Goa. The
Jesus Nazareth Chapel at Siridao has many beautiful adanv
trees. The tree was introduced by the Portuguese from Brazil.
The light to reddish brown oval fruit has 2-3 hard, black seeds
and the pulp tastes just like chikoo.

We attempted to make wine from these fruits because nobody
had tried it before and those who could have tried could not have
used the same yeast strain which we had used. For the first time
we were successful in domesticating a natural yeast which we
cultivated in our lab to make good quality wine. This would further
help us in producing large amount of wine making yeast. Such
yeast strains are patented and are imported in India at heavy cost.

We aim to produce wines from every species of fruit in Goa.
At present experiment is in progress to make kokum wine
(Garcinia indica fruits) a project sponsored by Western Ghats
Kokum Foundation.

Next on the list are mango, cashew and jackfruit pulp wines
with our own yeast strains. There is fun, joy and excitement
when you try novel wines such as fruit wines because almost
everyone understands wine and its hundreds of varieties as
those made by fermenting grapes.

People don't seem to understand you when you say that you
are making a 'banana' or 'watermelon' wine. But the truth is that
any natural edible product that has sugars and carbohydrates
and is fermentable can be converted into a wine.

Our emphasis at the Botany department is on fruit wines because
these would be the beverages for health, youth and longevity in
the next few years owing to their unique ingredients like
polyphenols, resveretrol and pigments. The red wines would be
much more in demand as compared to the white wines.

Now some basic aspects about the art that we intend to perfect.
Wines are as old as civilization. Wine making was a sacred
art known to the ancient Egyptians, Mesopotemians and the Greeks.
But the Romans made the wine famous in history. Wines are
fermented alcoholic products.

The most important ingredients for wine making are the
unicellular micro-organisms called yeasts. Yeasts have a
cocktail of biological catalysts called enzymes which convert
the sugars to alcohol and other flavour producing compounds.
The property of yeasts could have been discovered accidentally
by women while gathering food during the prehistoric period.
As compared to many other fruits, grapes have the strongest
capacity for producing natural wines.

The wild fermenting grapes were found to be useful by the first
crude wine makers. Then the vineyards were created. The
English movie 'A Walk in the Clouds' has picturised a romantic
story on the backdrop of the life in a typical vineyard. Wine makers
learnt the art to preserve the crude yeast cultures in the fermenting
grape pulp called 'must'. This was the birth of yeast biotechnology.

There are hundreds of yeast species associated with the plants.
Not all of these have the fermentation capacity. Yeasts belonging
to Genus Saccharomyces are most valued in wine making
because these are efficient sugar fermentors. Before microscopy
was discovered the wine makers were ignorant about the yeasts.
After development of microbiology, the wine making technology
was standardized.

Today wine production is a huge global industry. Elite strains of
wine making yeasts are produced and patented.

Homemade wines is a cottage industry in many countries.
Due to the Portuguese influence it was introduced in Goa.
Many families in Salcete, Bardez and Tiswadi produce wines
but these procedures are crude and the yeast is commercial
baker's yeast. The results however are found to be satisfactory
because personal attention is given by the wine makers. It is
impossible to reproduce these domestic recipes at industrial
scale. This is here our project comes into picture.

Our aim is to standardise the procedure for mass production
of classic fruit wines. We need small samples of all types and
varieties of very ripe fruits (especially varieties of mango, cashew
and kokum during the present season) from the local people and
in future we plan to hold a workshop on wine making technology
to encourage local small scale bio entrepreneurs.

 Watch out for the announcement. Right now, raise a toast
to our success in Adanv wine making - which is also a
breakthrough in yeast biotechnology.
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The Navhind Times 28/4/04 page 14
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GOA DESC RESOURCE CENTRE
Documentation + Education + Solidarity
11 Liberty Apts., Feira Alta, Mapusa, Goa 403 507
Tel: 2252660 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
                      website: www.goadesc.org
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