TRAVEL: WAY TO GOA Mirror.co.uk 11 March 2006 Don't get stuck on the beaches, India's tropical region has so much more to cham and delight Paul Gallagher
CHILLING out on beautiful beaches has always been Goa's chief attraction, but there's far more to India's smallest state than endless stretches of golden sand. The hippies "discovered" this paradise in the 60s and since then more and more backpackers, couples and families have been attracted to its laid-back vibe and welcoming locals. I certainly appreciated the friendliness of the Goans on the day we sailed on the River Zuari in search of crocodiles. When we spotted a 15ft beast in the water ahead it was comforting to know that help was at hand if we needed it. Safe back on dry land it was time to sample the area's history and we headed to Old Goa, the former capital, with its impressive churches and the Basilica of Bom Jesus. The Portuguese arrived in the 16th century, and moulded it to fit their tastes and religious beliefs - they only left in 1961 and centuries of rule has left its mark. Today, 30 per cent of Goans are Catholic and Christian images are everywhere you look. In the Basilica itself, I was surprised to see an image of Mary Magdalene sitting next to Jesus at the Last Supper. There were also the embalmed remains of 16th-century Saint Francis Xavier. Although there's not as much of him left as, for some reason, locals like to bite bits off. Several body parts were lost in the 17th century and as recently as 1995 one devotee bit off the little toe on his left foot smuggling it out in her mouth. She was caught after she spat it out queuing for a ferry. For those with more conventional tastes, dining in Goa is an absolute delight combining a range of Indian, tandoori and sea food dishes. Our first evening meal took us to the East Meets West restaurant just five minutes from our hotel where a three-course meal washed down with wine and polished off with delicious Jamaican coffee cost about £20 a head. The curries were full of distinctive flavours, spicy but not too hot and never leaving you feeling weighed down, like English versions. We paid a visit to the 200-year-old Savoi Spice Plantation in Ponda which displayed virtually every spice known to man. None of our party had the noses attuned enough to correctly identify the spices but we certainly had taste enough to enjoy our delicious lunch curries served on banana leaves. It's easy to over-indulged on Goa's gastronomic delights but if you want to stay in shape try an early-morning jog along the beaches - a fantastic way to start the day. As dawn broke in Baga, I saw the local fishermen wading out to sea for their catch, couples wandering the shore and a yoga practitioner concentrating on a series of bizarre stretches as the breeze from the Arabian Sea swept in. It was something else. Wednesday morning brought the Anjuna flea market, which we arrived at after crossing the Mandovi River which separates north and south Goa. The market has a dazzling array of sights and smells, but be prepared to fend off enthusiastic traders who will flock to you the minute you enter the maze of stalls. Some of the younger traders have picked up a few choice English phrases to lure you into their stores. I had to chuckle as one smiling girl in a sari approached a group of us and said: "Hello darlings. Come and have a butcher's hook in my store. Everything is cheap as chips." A boy of eight, dressed in a Real Madrid shirt, went for the more direct approach. He shook my hand, said he was the boss of his store and simply dragged me in. Tibetan prayer wheels, Kashmir jewellery, sandals, shirts, linen, saris, sarongs and much, much more are all on offer for extremely good prices if you barter. Bongos seem to be very popular too. The eight shopping-mad ladies I was with grinned with delight as they filled their (newly-bought) bags to the limit. For western tastes there are Levi's, adidas and Lacoste stores among others all selling goods at around a third of the price in England. Next stop was the Jungle Book tour at the Shanti nature reserve. After checking into our mud huts - with ensuite toilet and shower - we were soon on an elephant ride wandering along a river bed. Here we met carefree village children who expertly performed the Indian national anthem for us before the chief's daughter showed us an elaborate way of grinding rice. Back at camp no night was complete without a singalong. The local banana seller enthusiastically performing Don't Worry, Be Happy, which seemed to sum up the way of life in Goa. A word of warning though: don't stay up too late supping the local brandy - Honey Bee - as the three-hour jungle treks start at 6am and it's hard work. The guides were all very-well informed and meeting elephants was something not easily forgotten. You even have the chance to wash and swim with them as they douse you after climbing on their backs. Leaving the camp and arriving at the luxurious Intercontinental Hotel near Palolem beach in south Goa is quite a contrast. The resort boasts its own nine-hole golf course which you pass on the drive up to the main entrance. Here you can dine in any of the hotel's four restaurants, get all kinds of massages at the Champneys Spa, swim in the impressive pool or head out to sea and try your hand at the various watersports on offer. If you're staying in south Goa for several days then one day trip definitely worth doing is visiting the Dudhsagar waterfalls - the second highest in India. It is more than a two-hour drive from the Intercontinental so an early start is needed. The Dudhsagar - literally sea of milk - plummets from 2,000ft above sea level. It fills a pool popular with tourists cooling off after a short trek through the Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary. The Dudhsagar water itself is freezing but very refreshing - once you've got used to it. It's a bit of a climb, but the top of the waterfall peak offers views that really are breathtaking. On the way to the falls hungry chimps burst from the trees to binge on nuts, bananas and grapes that the hundreds of tourists happily feed them. Clench your fist over the food and the chimps even prise open your fingers one by one to get to the goods. After a busy week my final day was spent lounging by a pool and soaking up the sun. For our last night we arrived at Palolem Beach in the early evening sipping cocktails at Cafe del Mar and watching the red sun set. Tucking into some of the best shellfish I've ever tasted, the sea breeze cooled everyone down ready for a night spent dancing into the wee small hours. It just doesn't get much better than this. Taking a morning dip with friendly elephants is simply unforgettable GO FOR IT OLD GOA AND PANJIM TOUR: Visit the heritage monuments built during the Portuguese regime and the capital city Panjim. Costs £17 includes dinner at a hosted home in Panjim. CROCODILE TOUR: Cruise the River Zuari with an experienced guide to point out the abundant bird life. 'Spot a Croc' in the shade of mangroves. Costs £23 per person and includes lunch and a visit to a Goan farm JUNGLE TOUR: An overnight stay in the Shanti nature resort where you learn yoga, bathe with elephants and spend the night in a mud hut. £78 per adult and includes breakfast, lunch and dinner. DUDHSAGAR WATERFALLS: The second highest waterfalls in India. Adventure trekking, swimming and hand feeding jungle monkeys. Costs £20 per adult and includes lunch. ANJUNA MARKET: Buy anything. £6 in a private taxi. MASSAGE AT THE INTERCONTINENTAL: Around £20. WATERSPORTS: At the Intercontinental - include yachting, jetskis, banana boats, and parasailing. £10-£20. FOOD The average cost of: 3-course meal: £5.00 Bottle of wine: £4.50 (locally produced) Glass of beer: £0.50 Soft drink: £0.25 GETTING THERE Direct Holidays is now offering packages to Palolem and Varca beach. For a current Direct Holidays brochures call 0870 242 2404 or to make a reservation call 0870 191 9138. Alternatively browse and book online at www.directholidays.co.uk Peak period is November to April. India's west coast suf fers from monsoon rains for the rest of the year. A six-month tourist visa costs £30 - get it in person or by post from the High Commission for India, India House, Aldwych, London, WC2B 4NA, www.hcilondon.net, 020 7836 8484. FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATION PRICES: Travelling next winter for seven nights, staying at the 3* Hotel Ronil Beach in Baga, Goa with Direct Holidays based on sharing a twin room and staying on a bed-and-breakfast basis costs from £529 per adult. Fourteen nights start from £619 per adult. Travelling next winter for seven nights, staying at the 4* Hotel Intercontinental in Palolem, Goa with Direct Holidays based on sharing a twin room and staying on a bed and breakfast basis costs from £607 per adult. 14 nights start from £750 per adult. ~(^^)~ Avelino
