*A walk through Old Goa * * Percival Noronha*
The reader is hereby invited to take a stroll through the Old City of Goa *–* this walk will be a rare opportunity to embark on a voyage of discovery, perhaps even undertake a significant personal adventure, one of the most amazing and fascinating that Goa can still offer to the spirit and the senses. This visit would undoubtedly represent yet another step towards cementing the cultural heritage of a glorious city worth knowing and preserving. Indeed, the historical importance of Old Goa is still of fundamental interest. It was in this splendid Asian metropolis that the heart of Portugal beat to the rhythms of missionary zeal, warfare and commerce. It was from here that the naval fleets sailed to the whole oriental world to spread western civilization. Old Goa was a magnificent city which housed at the height of its splendor, more than two hundred thousand souls. It was said of the city that, *“Any one who has seen Goa, need not see Lisbon”.* Yet, today, Old Goa is a mere shadow of its past. However, from the few monuments that have survived the onslaughts of time, one can get an idea of the glory of the city that was once known as *“Rome of the East”. * But, before we set out on our walk, let us recollect some snippets of the past of this glorious city. Old Goa, originally called Elá, is situated on the island of Tiswadi, on the left margin of the river Mandovi. By the end of the 15th century, it was a centre under the domination of the kingdom of Bijapur, which had developed rapidly thanks to its highly active commerce. After its conquest by the Portuguese on the 25th of November 1510, it turned into not only the centre of their Eastern Empire but also the centre of the spread of Christianity in the lands of the East. It reached its pinnacle in the middle of the 16th century, then declined speedily, losing its political and commercial importance. This abrupt fall was due not only to the fragmentation of the Portuguese Empire in the East, but to yet other causes, especially the unhealthy environment of the city, which was apparent in increasingly frequent and virulent epidemics. The city was finally abandoned and the majority of its formerly famous monuments – religious, civil and its admirable defensive system – fell into ruins. By a strange coincidence, the topographic configuration of Old Goa is very similar to that of the city of Lisbon. Like Lisbon, Old Goa is founded on seven mounts which, since the days of the Portuguese conquest, came to be known by the names they sport even today. To the West, stands the Monte Santo (Holy Hill) or Monte Sião; to the East, around two kilometers away, rises the lofty hill or, better still, the hillock of Nossa Senhora do Monte, or the hill of the Vicar-General, which is the highest point of the city. Next to this hill, is the hill of Santo Amaro and to the North, not too far from the Monte hill, the hillock of Nossa Senhora do Carmo spreads out. To the South of the Monte Santo, right in the middle of lush greenery, rises the hill of Boa Vista or Monte Formoso. Further ahead, one finds the hills of Forca and of the Santíssima Trindade (Holy Trinity). Like almost all other medieval cities, the Old City of Goa was also defended by an enclosure which in the words of Gaspar Correia, *“was entirely walled with a large stone shield on the outside”* and a *“large moat full of water”.* This fortification had four gates which came to be known, after the conquest, as: that of *“Da Ribeira”* (of the River), through which Afonso de Albuquerque entered during the attack on Goa on 25th November 1510 and where the Chapel of St. Catherine stands today; *“Da Fortaleza”* (of the Fortress), or *“Dos Cais” *(of the Wharf), on the spot where the Arch of the Viceroys was built in 1598; *“do Mandvi”*(of the Mandovi), on the location of the former Customs Office, behind the Church of Divine Providence and the present-day Institute Pius X; and *“A dos Bacais”* (of the cattle market), close to the present-day cemetery. In 1679, during the rule of António Paes de Sande, another door – the fifth door was added, which was named as that of the *“Nossa Senhora da Conçeicão”* (Our Lady of Conception). This door is seen today in a fair state of conservation. In the middle of the 16th century, the city extended much beyond the old Moorish enclave. However, the military capability of the enclosure did not satisfy the logistics of the time. Therefore, the viceroy D. Antão de Noronha (1564-1568), in tune with the orders from Portugal, began building the external fortification which extended over sixteen and half kilometres in length. This fortification started at the “Passo of Daugim” to the north-east of the island of Goa (Tiswadi), where the Fort of S. José defended the entry way. This wall extended to the East till the Passo Seco, where the fortress of São Brás was standing i.e. opposite Cumbarjua. From there, it continued till the gate of Santiago in Banastarim, then turning south through the fields of Mangueiral, climbing and waving its way through the hills of Carambolim, Moulá, Azossim, till it reached Bainguenim and Panelim, to the North, just bordering the Casa da Pólvora (Gun Powder Factory). The doors of the fortification of the first three “Passos”, i.e. of São José, São Brás and Santiago, respectively, were important because they opened out to the exterior or the main land which, at the time, was not under the domain of the Portuguese. Anyone who passed through these doors had to pay the toll tax *(sopó)* of two *‘bazarucos’ *and received a mark on the arm as a sign of payment. In this way, besides tracking the exact number of persons who passed through the “passos”, it also served to prevent the running away of slaves, criminals and spies. After the conquest of the City of Goa, the Portuguese began, to cater to the spiritual needs of the conquered peoples. This was done according to a triple plan that included not only commerce and conquest, but also the propagation of the Faith. They were so diligent in this last objective that after a little more than four years, one could see within the area of the city then very small in size, a few Christian temples where the first missionaries exercised their pastoral duties and taught religious doctrine to the natives of the land. From 1517, various religious orders were established in Goa, whose zeal as also that of the secular clerics deputed by D. Joao III, were responsible for the Christianization not only of Goa, but also of the other lands in the East under Portuguese rule. Now, let us imagine that we are going to visit the Old City of Goa leaving Panjim, the new capital of Goa since 1843, taking the road that leads to Old Goa. However, this is not the only route that leads from Panjim to the Old City. The other alternative would be the route by the river, i.e. taking a boat from Panjim and disembarking at the old jetty of the Viceroys, today known as the Old Goa jetty. But this is not the normal route, for the simple reason that there is no regular river transport. Under these circumstances, it would be convenient to leave Panjim via the Ponte de Linhares (Linhares Bridge). Of the ten kilometres that separate Panjim from Old Goa, provide us with the opportunity to travel via the famous Ponte de Linhares which is known, in the local idiom, as *Pattó*. This 3.2 kms viaduct-cum-bridge that links Panjim to Ribandar, was built by the Senate of Goa in 1633-1634, at the time of the Viceroy D. Miguel de Noronha, Count of Linhares, and was designed by the Jesuits of the College of St. Paul of Old Goa. Erected on the river Mandovi, over alluvial terrain, its foundations were firmed with wood locally known as “*zambó”* or “*jambó” * (*Xiliadolia Biformis*, Brenth). The structure sits on several arches of stone and lime. As we cross the bridge and follow the national highway, we enter the village of Ribandar, which was once a fishing locality. At the end of the 16th century, it had a defense rampart and in the 17th century some Portuguese noble families like the Count of Ribandar, Nogar, Ayalla e Costa, etc. built their mansions and palaces there. At the time of the Moorish occupation, prior to 1510 and even earlier, the village had been the most important access route to Old Goa. From here originates the name Ribandar, i.e. *Rai* or *Raja*, i.e. ‘king’, and ‘*bandhar’*, meaning *‘the royal road’* because at its port, the kings disembarked. The derivation of the name Ribandar from *‘arriba’* and *‘andar’* as suggested by some authors is not the accurate one. In Ribandar, the Church of O. Lady of Ajuda (*Ajuda* meaning ‘Help’) was built by the Portuguese seamen, to commemorate the miracle by Our Lady who saved them from drowning. Just a parish Church before 1565, it was reinforced and aided in 1711. It has five altars of which the one of Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres is the most important. A little further to the right, we come across the imposing façade of the old hospital of the Santa Casa de Misericórdia de Goa, built in 1893. It functions today as a Government office. As we leave Ribandar, we enter Panvel. After the Portuguese conquest this locality was known as Panelim. To the right, a long compound wall runs, where once upon a time was located the Casa da Pólvora (Gun Powder Factory) functioned from 1630 till 1884. The twelve basalt grinding stones that used to grind saltpeter, sulphur and coal were to be seen scattered around the vast area. Today, all these grinding stones were taken to Old Goa while large constructions have come up in that area thus obliterating that historic site. The Casa da Pólvora had its own chapel dedicated to São Marçal but its ruins have not survived. Right next to the factory, we find the ruins of the Palace of Panelim. In reality, Panelim, which was a humble quarter of Velha Goa, gained great prominence at the end of the 17th century when the Viceroy, D. Pedro António de Noronha de Albuquerque, Count of Vila Verde, came to reside in this ancient palace due to deteriorating sanitary conditions of Old Goa. His example was followed by the Archbishop and most of the nobility. The palace became a permanent residence of the Viceroys till 1759, when D. Manuel de Saldanha e Albuquerque, Count of Ega, changed his residence to Pangim, at the old Fort of Idalkhan (old Secretariat). Further still, also to the right, a beautiful chapel in Baroque style catches the eye. This is the Chapel of Our Lady of Piety built before 1661. One of the altars is dedicated to Our Lady of Miracles. The statue of Our Lady was earlier venerated in a sumptuous chapel in Jaffna, Sri Lanka. The chapel was restored in 1961. From the rear of the Chapel one could still see some 200 meters away, the remains of the Episcopal Palace of Panelim. Now, this stretch of the national highway is known as Rua de São Pedro, due to the fact that it is close to the Church of São Pedro (Saint Peter), built between 1542 and 1553, during the term of the Governor Martim Afonso de Sousa. The façade is simple and is topped by a large triangular pediment. It has five altars, the main one being dedicated to Our Lady of Conception. Next to this Church is located the old palace of Sotto Mayor, unique in the 17th century and contemporary with the See Cathedral of Old Goa. It suffered many amputations but the façade has remained practically unaltered till date. Behind the church was located the now extinct complex belonging to the Dominicans, named after St. Thomas Aquinas, the famous college that had the status of a University, to confer the degrees of “*presentado”, “doutor” * and “*mestre”*, both to the religious and the laity. Further on, still on the same stretch of the national highway, corresponding to what is now the Rua de São Boaventura, there existed a College of São Boaventura – an institution belonging to the order of Observant Franciscanos, built in 1602 on the margin of the river Mandovi, where theology and philosophy were taught. This college was closed down before the extinction of the religious orders, as a result of the unhealthy local conditions. Later, the building was demolished in 1870. A little further we see, to the right, the top of the Monte Santo (the Holy Hill) where the Priorado do Rosário is situated. We will not, however, speak just yet about a visit to the monuments on the Monte Santo. This reference is meant merely to identify the stretch of the national highway, which is called the Rua das Naus de Ormuz. To the left of this road extend the ruins of the compound wall of the Arsenal or Ribeira Grande and the Estufa. This wall is now the only mute testimony to the old centre of industrial activity of the city, where besides the Arsenal, the foundry of the artillery, the Casa da Moeda (Mint House), the naval shipyards and the elephant stables were housed. The overseer of the treasure office also had his residence and offices there. The private chapel of the Ribeira Grande was dedicated to the Cinco Chagas (Five Wounds). In a corner of the Ribeira, on the eastern side was located the Church of Santos Mártires (Holy Martyrs). Today, there is no sign of its ruins. As we now turn to the north we come across the Rua do Bazarinho de São Francisco. To the left, adjoining the Arsenal, was the location of the Royal Hospital, founded by Afonso de Albuquerque after the conquest, which started by being housed in some modest dwellings that existed there in 1523. After it was remodeled in 1597, it turned into a vast and majestic building of two stories, where, as per the writings of Pyrard de Laval, the treatment of the sick and the convalescent was superb. But it declined noticeably in the middle of the 17th century. Even when transferred to the building of São Roque, at the Monte Santo in 1760, after the extinction of the Jesuit order, it was unable to regain its lost glory. In front of the spot where the Arsenal ended, is now situated the Chapel of Santa Catarina de Alexandria, also built by Afonso de Albuquerque, *“in commemoration of the success of the take-over of Goa”. *It was repaired in 1950 and was later restored. One must keep in mind that this was the location of the gateway of the wall of the Muslim city mentioned earlier. To the west, there used to be another chapel dedicated to Sao Martin, constructed under the orders of D. João de Castro, to commemorate the wonderful victory he had achieved in Diu. On his return to the city of Goa, he had part of its defensive wall pulled down and that is from where he made his triumphal entry on the 15th of April 1547. In front of the Chapel of Santa Catarina, by the side of the ruins of the Gun Powder Factory, one comes across a vast coconut plantation, triangular in shape; this is where Aljube was situated – the old prison built by Archbishop Aleixo de Meneses in 1600 to punish the recalcitrant clergy and other convicts within his jurisdiction. Dellon refers to this prison as *“the dirtiest, the darkest and the most horrible of the ones I have set eyes on”. * We now arrive at the road on the margin of the Mandovi river. Exactly behind the Aljube, there was the Jetty of the Archbishop or of Santa Catarina. On the other side of the road there were two large spaces which served as the location for the fishing boats to disembark, as well as the fish market, followed by the Ribeira das Galés, and its line of grounded boats. Further one comes to a crossroads, with the quay of the Viceroys on one side and on the other the Arco dos Vice-reis (Arch of the Viceroys). The Arch that one can now see was restored by the architect Baltasar de Castro in 1952-54, on its original lines and according to the plan of Julio Simão, the author of the project. The original Arch had been built under the orders of the Viceroy D. Francisco da Gama, Count of Vidigueira, in memory of his great-grandfather Vasco da Gama to commemorate the first centenary of the arrival of Vasco da Gama to India in 1598. As a monument, the Arch of the Viceroys is an arch of victory in celebration of an epic period in the history of Portugal, which culminated in the discovery of the maritime route to India. As an artistic monument, it is classical in architectural pattern and is decorated with motifs of Manueline art. As we pass through the Arch of the Viceroys, we now enter the Terreiro dos Vicereis (the Viceroys’ Yard) a vast plaza facing the Palacio da Fortaleza (Palace of the Fort) where the viceroys and the governors would live from 1554 to 1695. This palace was an integral part of the ancient Muslim castle that Afonso de Albuquerque rebuilt, with an addition of the main two-storied tower. In 1929 the Archaeological Committee rebuilt the fragment of its portico that is today highly damaged. The third door of the ancient Moorish wall was known as the Porta da Alfândega (Customs Door) or as that of Mandvim, of which there is today not a single vestige. However, a few steps away from this location, the Theatine Fathers built the Convent of São Caetano (St. Cajetan) and the elegant Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Divina Providência (Church of Our Lady of Divine Providence). According to the opinion of Pietro della Valle and Gamelli Carreri, the church dating to 1655, is in the Corinthian style and the interior in the Mosaic-Corinthian and it reproduces, according to Cottineau de Kloguen, Maderno’s project for the façade of the Church of St. Peter in Rome and that of San Andre della Valle. Like the great Basilica in Rome, this church also exhibits a dome and two quadrangular towers. After the extinction of the religious orders, the Convent of São Caetano remained closed for a few years. Finally, in 1856 it was adapted to serve as the temporary residence to the Governors whenever they visited Old Goa on their official visits. In 1960 on the site of the old convent of São Caetano was built the majestic Instituto Pio X (St. Pius X Institute) where special courses are organized for the pastoral formation of priests. The Palácio da Relação was another of the palaces that stood in front of the gate of the Palácio da Fortaleza. This tribunal had its own private chapel dedicated to Nossa Senhora do Bom Despacho. After the transfer of the Tribunal da Relação to Panjim and the demolition of the building in Old Goa, the statue of its main altar was transferred to the Chapel of São Sebastião in Fontainhas. Another historical site situated close to the Palácio da Fortaleza, was the Tronco or the Cadeia da Cidade (City Prison) which remained in that location between 1511 and the beginning of the 19th century. This building is linked with the name of Camões, who stayed there for a while thanks to the exile that the Governor Francisco Barreto condemned him to, for having published the verses entitled “Disparates da India” (“Nonsense in India”) and a prose satire that criticized the appointment of that governor. To the north-east, among the better known sites outside the Moorish wall around the Palácio da Fortaleza, one could find the Alfândega, (Customs House), the Bagaçal, or the Armazens ( Warehouses), the Casa do Peso or the Balança (House of Weights and Measures) and the Bazar Grande (the Big Market). Today, there are not even ruins of these localities. According to the description of Pyrard de Laval, the Customs House was in a style similar to that of the Royal Palace in Paris. Behind the São Caetano, on the Mandovi plaza, was located the new gallows where the convicts implicated in the Conjuração dos Pintos were tortured in 1788. As we continue to stroll down the old city we will now leave behind the Terreiro dos Vice-reis to glance at some historical sites along the Rua Direita and the collateral roads. The Rua do Senado or that of the Cidade would start from the Rua Direita and turn westward till the Aljube. The Senate of Goa was established by Afonso de Albuquerque in October 1511 and it enjoyed a number of privileges that in 1633, were placed on par with those of the Senate in Lisbon. In 1835, it was replaced by the Câmara Municipal das Ilhas (Municipality of ‘Ilhas’) and it was transferred to Panjim. This led to the building being abandoned and it then fell into ruins. Back at the Rua Direita, we see to the east, a two-storied building that is white-washed and is known as Casa da Bula. The Bula da Santa Cruzada was established in Goa on the 24th of May 1593. It is possible that this building may be contemporaneous with the See Cathedral or may even date to the beginning of the 17th century. The lintel of the service door of this house displays curiously, a fragment in the Manueline style. A little before this building one finds the Rua da Conceição which takes us to the Porta da Conceição door, mentioned earlier. To the right, in the large open space in front of the Cathedral we find the Terreiro do Sabaio and next to it, to the south, the site of the old Palácio do Sabaio. Since 1510 the Vice-roys and the Governors resided in this old Muslim palace of Sabaio, in the centre of the city – a three-storied building with high stairways. It was the Viceroy D. Pedro de Mascarenhas who ordered the transfer of the seat of government to the Palácio da Fortaleza that was earlier referred to. With this shifting, the Palácio do Sabaio was left unoccupied and it was only in 1560 that here was installed the Tribunal da Inquisição (the Tribunal of the Inquisition). When the Tribunal was closed down in 1812, the Palace fell into ruins and today on its site one finds a restaurant built by the office of the Archaeological Survey of India! Behind the Terreiro do Sabaio rises the lofty Se Primacial de Goa, known now as the See Cathedral which was begun to be built in 1562 and concluded only in 1628. This monument, the masterpiece of two great architects, Ambrósio Argueiro and Julio Simão, is the largest of all the temples in Old Goa. Its façade – a combination of the Tuscan and Doric styles – is very simple in contrast to the architectural style of the other temples. In 1776, the tower to the right collapsed for want of maintenance, as did also the lateral domed passage that led to the sacristy. To date the Cathedral remains without the tower and the aisle of the corridor to the right. As one crosses the threshold of the temple, one’s spirit is elevated by the immense size of the Cathedral and the admirable ornamentation of its altars and its golden carvings. The main altar possesses a truly marvellous and artistic altarpiece. The golden carving depicts in high relief the stages of the life of Santa Catherina of Alexandria. In the presbytery, one can see the Episcopal throne and the chairs of the Canons as well as the balcony where the Governor –General with the members of the family would sit. Also, are seen a rich shelf of carved black wood and the organ belonging to the church attached to the convent of St. Francis di Assisi. The Cathedral has seventeen altars, each in a different style and of great symbolism as well as of artistic value. To the left, worthy of notice are the large doors of the Blessed Sacrament chapel in Moghul style. To the right, is the much venerated chapel of the Cross of Miracles with its rich door in Florentine style. The sacristy is in alignment with the main altar of the Cathedral. In the same complex, lies the old Archbishop’s Palace, constructed at the time of D. Aleixo de Meneses (1595-1609). It is sober in style and it is connected to the Cathedral with a granite staircase that lands at the entrance of the sacristy. This palace is also linked to the adjacent Franciscan complex which lies to the west. The Church of the Holy Spirit of the Convent of St. Francis di Assisi is the most beautiful specimen of the religious art of the 17th century, attesting to its brilliant activity in evangelizing the peoples of the East. In its cloister, we find the entire life of Saint Francis di Assisi depicted in paintings. The gateway of this church is in Manueline style and it is probably the only fragment of Portuguese Gothic that exists in this church, which has different characteristics. This gateway belonged to the original church, consecrated in 1606, and was relocated in 1661 to the new church that is seen today. To the side, one finds the Convent of St. Francis di Assisi, where today is located the Museum of the Archaeological Survey of the India. A part of the gallery of the Viceroys and governors of Goa, besides pre-Portuguese archaeological pieces from the old Museu Lapidar de Goa (Museum of Engraved Stones) now exists. At the back of the Tribunal of Inquisition, was the starting point of the Rua do Crucifixo (Crucifix Road), which passes through the See Cathedral (to the south) and extends up to the Porta dos Bacais, of the Moorish wall, that was later closed under orders from Afonso de Albuquerque to facilitate the construction of the Church of Nossa Senhora da Serra. The present-day cemetery of Old Goa is situated on the site of this church. On the side, there were also the buildings of the Santa Casa de Misericórdia de Goa (Holy House of Mercy of Goa) and the shelter homes of Nossa Senhora da Serra and that of Santa Maria Madalena. In the large open space where the garden is located, to the south of the Cathedral and the Franciscan complex, there once existed an urban setting with perpendicular roads and cross-roads. On one of these sites, at the Rua da Ala dos Namorados, once resided Garcia da Orta, the Jewish doctor and botanist, who had a garden that was well-cared for and full of rare and exotic plants. The Rua Direita, was half a kilometer long and opened out in front of the Misericórdia square, near the Pelourinho Velho, where a number of roads met. This is where the Bazar Velho (Old Market) was located. Its structure resembled a cloister, where eatables were sold, while at nights, stolen goods were disposed of at nominal prices. Due to this reason, the place was also known as “Baratilha” (a place where goods were being sold at very cheap cost). Close to the “Pelourinho Velho” there was also another square known as the “Terreiro dos Galos”, where the populace found entertainment in cock-fights. Here, is where the Jesuits built their ‘Casa Professa’ and took up residence in 1586. This was a large building of three floors, one of which collapsed after the fire of 1781. The Basilica of Bom Jesus was built between 1594 and 1605. It is a monument characteristic of the art of the Society of Jesus, displaying elements of various classical styles of architecture – Ionian, Doric, Corinthian and Composite. Below the pediment, it exhibits a big medallion with the coat of arms of the Society which is embellished with decorative elements and studded ornamentation. But essentially the Basilica of Bom Jesus is the sanctuary where the relics of St. Francis Xavier rest – the beacon of Goan spirituality. The main altar of the Basilica displays the golden altarpiece representing the grandiose image of Saint Ignatius of Loiola, the founder of the Society of Jesus, at the moment when in ecstasy, he exclaimed, *“How vile the world seems to me when I contemplate heaven.” *A small image of Bom Jesus (Good Jesus), the patron of the Church, stands in front of the pedestal of the image of Saint Ignatius. In the Basilica, the chapel of St. Francis Xavier was adapted to fit the definitive placement of the tomb of St. Francis Xavier, Glorious Apostle of the Indies, on the 24th of April 1659. Right on top, one can see the silver casket crafted by Goan jewelers; it was completed in 1637 and was placed on a rich Florentine mausoleum, a gift from the Archduke of Florence, Cosmas III. The mausoleum is the masterpiece of the great Italian artist, Giovanni Battista Foggini, while its placement was undertaken by Placido Francesco Ramponi between 14th October and 8th November 1698. The Basilica is bounded on the west, by the Travessa das Três Boticas. From here, begins the Calçada das Monicas or of Graça, in the direction of the Holy Mount. The Calçada (paved road) is steep and straight, thanks to which one can appreciate the silhouette of the ruins of the tower of the Church of Our Lady of Grace. At the start, at the base of the hill, is situated to the left, the Convent of St. John of God, known as that of the Hospitallers. The restored building serves today as a retirement home for the aged. As we continue climbing the Calçada da Graça, we enter the Augustinian complex where lie the ruins of the once upon a time, the sumptuous Church of Our Lady of Grace built by the Augustinians between 1572 and 1597. Of the marvellous and huge five-storied towers, all that now remains, is a part of the right side tower, which has survived in defiance of the onslaught of time. Behind this place to the south-west, one can see the extensive ruins of the Convent St. Augustine of Pópulo and those of the Seminary of St. Guilherme. Turning the corner of the site, round the Church of Our Lady of Grace, the road now takes the name of Rua dos Judeus (Jews Road) since renowned Jews lived there up to 17th century. The great cartographer, Fernão Vaz Dourado, the typographer and writer João de Endem and other families of Jews, had their houses along this road which bounded the road of the Augustinians to the west. On our way back, we find to our left, the Royal Chapel of Santo António where Diogo Mendes de Vasconcelos and his squad of three hundred men had been stationed during the re-conquest of Goa. This is, therefore, yet another temple that is historically linked to the date of 25th November 1510, as Afonso de Albuquerque had requested in his will that this chapel be built. This chapel was restored by the Battalion of the “Caçadores do Tejo”, under the orders of Colonel Palletti in 1961. We may also visit the ruins of the College of Sao Paulo-o-Novo or of São Roque, which was situated at the back of the Chapel of Santo António, to the extreme west point of the Monte Santo. The Jesuits had acquired in 1578 a number of old houses to serve as the residence to the sick and the convalescent members of the Society. After a while, they enlarged it and raised it to four floors stamping the building with a wonderful architectural style. The new College grew rapidly and a large number of students attended it. After the extinction of the Jesuit Society (1759), this magnificent building was turned into a hospital for about four years and was then abandoned until its demolition in 1830. Today, there is not even a vestige of the ruins of this large complex. We now take the route of the Calçada das Monicas which was built in 1606 by the Archbishop D. Frei Aleixo de Meneses. This grand three-storied building was provided with everything that might be needed to make life comfortable for the nuns. The façade is supported by three solid external arches. This monastery played a large role in the education of Indo-Portuguese women in the past. One cannot but mention the Altar of the Crucified Christ in the church of this convent, topped with the huge cross known as Miraculous Cross. Walking further west, we come across the Priorado da Nossa Senhora do Rosário, built in 1553 which is linked to the re-conquest of Goa: when Antão de Nogueira carried the news of the victory to Afonso de Albuquerque who was stationed there with a part of his army, the captain’s wish was that on that very spot should be built the House of Our Lady and the Blessed Saint Anthony. In 1931 the Archaeological Committee placed in this church a marble plaque that reads: *“From this high point Afonso de Albuquerque watched the re-conquest of Goa on 25th November 1510”*. The church exhibits a combination of Manueline and Hindu art. The portal is elegant yet simple. At the entrance, the ribbed dome is the last Gothic vestige of the medieval art of the West on the Malabar coast. The dome of the main altar, with its ribs that converge on the top in the shape of a rosette, already hint at the Renaissance. The tomb that one can see in the main chapel of the Church is the mausoleum of the beautiful Catarina-a-Piró of plebeian origin, a woman who was brought along by Garcia de Sa, the then Captain of Malacca, later Governor of India, and whom he married *in articulo mortis*, and the marriage was celebrated, according to tradition, by the Apostle of the Indies. The tomb of Catarina-a-Piró represents the typical manifestation of Gujarati art. To the south and east of the city, there are still a few spots to be discovered. So, getting along our trip, let us return to the square where the statue of Mahatma Gandhi is situated and then move to the Pelourinho Novo which stands very close by. Here, one can still see the black basalt pillar with a thick iron ring attached to it, where criminals were displayed and punished by cutting off one of their hands. The people refer to it as*hat-katro* (the place where hands are cut). There are two roads that proceed from the site of the Pelourinho Velho, today tarred, but were earlier cobbled. One leads through the hill of Santíssima Trindade (Holy Trinity). Towards the end of the 16thcentury, the Archbishop D. Aleixo de Meneses built here a church dedicated to the Holy Trinity, close to the Shiva temple. It is now in ruins. To date, the Hindus habitually conduct their ablutions in the tank that lies close to this temple. The other road leads towards the hill of Boa Vista. At the top of this hill, one finds the Church of Nossa Senhora da Luz, founded before 1541, and to the left, the Calçada da Cruz dos Milagres (the Miraculous Cross). The Church so dedicated was originally constructed in 1619, then rebuilt in 1671, and handed over to the friars of the Congregation of St. Filipe Neri, who later started a convent. After the extinction of the religious orders, the building fell into a ruinous condition. Recently, the Church was rebuilt, at the cost of public contributions without proper consideration for the conservation aspects. In this Church there was a large cross that historical tradition refers to as having miraculously grown in size. When this church was abandoned, the cross was taken in procession to the See Cathedral and placed on the altar of Senhor Morto. If we go up the road on the southern side, at a distance a little over half a kilometer from the site of the Church of Nossa Senhora da Luz, we come across the ruins of the pedestal of the old gallows of the city. We turn back to the Mahatma Gandhi square and move along the national highway to the site of the old gateway on the external wall of Banastarim (Santiago). Two hundred metres from here, is the site of the Church of Santo Aleixo, built by the Archbishop D. Aleixo de Meneses, and further to the left, one comes across the imposing façade of the Church of São Paulo, belonging to the complex of the Seminary of Santa Fé, and the Colégio Velho de São Paulo (College of St. Paul, the Old). The influence of the now extinct College of St. Paul in the formation of the Goan clergy was enormous, and some members of the clergy came to be notable*professores* or *mestres (professors or masters)* as they were then known. It was in this College that the first printing press in India was installed in 1556. Behind the Church of São Paulo, a small lane takes us to the Chapel of São Francisco Xavier. The origin of this chapel is unknown. However, the author of *O Oriente Conquistado* makes a conjecture that it may be one of the two that existed in the compound of the Colégio de São Paulo, dedicated to Santo Antão and São Jerónimo, respectively, and that the second may have later changed the dedication, probably to honour St. Francis Xavier, who frequently visited the Chapel to conduct his meditation, vigils and to celebrate the Mass. Very close, one finds here two wells that are often visited and many people carry away some of the water from the well that lies to the right of the Chapel within the compound. Further on, to the left, one comes across the ruins of the Church of São Tome, built in 1560, at the time of Dom Constantino de Bragança. For a while, the parish priest of this Church was the renowned *mestre*, Father Leonardo Pais, author of *O Promptuário das Definições ľndicas*. As we proceed, we find in the neighbourhood of the village of Corlim a set of tall buildings with a monumental cross in front, which was the site of the old Campo de São Lázaro. It was here that the *cavaleiros* and *fidalgos* (aristocracy) held their jousts with canes and oranges on the feast days of São João and São Tiago. It was also here that the convicts of the Inquisition who were handed over to the secular authorities were burnt. At the back, was situated the Hospital de São Lázaro, where patients with leprosy were sheltered, and the Parish Church dedicated to São Lazaro. Further east, there was also the Church of Santo Amaro. Today, there are even no ruins to be seen. Finally, as we once again move into the national highway and when we go a little further, we come to the site of the ruins of the fortress of Banastarim, mentioned earlier, which was the third gateway of the external wall. We shall now return to the Mahatma Gandhi square and take the road that leads us to the second gateway of the external wall, named Gandaulim or São Bráz. As we leave this square, we find, to the right, the pathway that leads to the top of the hill on which the Chapel of O. L. of the Mount is situated. It was from this spot that the Muslims fired against Afonso de Albuquerque’s troops to regain Goa in May 1510. The Chapel was rebuilt towards the end of the 16th century and was probably designed by Julio Simão, the author of the plan of the Arch of the Viceroys and the See Cathedral. On the way back, before we arrive at the main road, we find to the left, the ruins of the Convent and the Church of Carmo, which was a complex belonging to the Carmelites. They had a Church that was architecturally very rich. To the right was situated the Convent and the Church of São Domingos. Cottineau, who was a guest of the Vicar-General at this Convent in 1897, refers with great admiration to the splendor of the Convent and its magnificent cloisters. After the visit to the Capela do Monte and the surrounding areas, we now proceed towards the gateway of Sao Bras, where we can still see the wall and the Gate of Gandaulim, the residence of the Captain of the Fort and the Church of São Bras. This latter, was at the start, a shrine (*ermida*) founded before 1541 and was elevated to a Parish around 1563. It was rebuilt by the Archbishop D. Frei Aleixo de Meneses at the end of the 16th century. It has three altars, the main one being dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Vitória. On the way back, along the area where the railway station is now located, the stretch of the road takes the name Rua das Flores (The Road of Flowers). Here, to the right, one enters through the lane of Daugim; at the turn one catches sight of the old monumental cross of the Franciscans. In the middle, at the edge of this lane, to the right, a basalt cross erected in 1567 attracts the attention of the visitor. The Daugim lane ends at the margin of the river Mandovi. It was here that the old Church of São José was located, near the Passo de Daugim, where the external fortifications began. Close to this door, to the right, one can still find the ruins of the old Franciscan complex of Nossa Senhora da Mãe de Deus; the statue that used to be here is now venerated at the main altar at the Church in Saligão, (Bardez), which is in neo-Gothic style. On our return, as we enter the main road (Rua das Flores) which ushers us into Velha Goa, one finds to the right the site of the Church of Santa Luzía (1544), which had been built under the orders of the Archbishop D. João de Albuquerque. This Church was turned into a Chapel in 1864 and was demolished in 1873. We have come to the end of our journey. The Old City of Goa is not merely an open-air museum, but a rich collection of artistic symbols of precious memories that acquire value only when “re-discovered” by investigators and scholars or by the eyes of amazed visitors. *(Percival Noronha is a foremost Goan historian, who is highly decorated for his substantive works around the world. This Article is a guide to every street of Old Goa and specially caters to those who read English and know Portuguese and has been edited by Elvidio Miranda and translated from Portuguese by Isabela de Santa Rita Vas)* ( Stephen Dias has forwarded to his Blogger. He requests to publish in Google)