-- Samir Umarye Perched atop a dreary hillock in Bicholim is a minuscule remnant of Islamic architecture in Goa—Bicholim's famed Namazgah.
Built in 1683 for prince Akbar II — the rebellious son of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb — it gives visitors an extensive view of the town and its surrounding villages. "It's a unique piece of architectural elegance," gushes Prajal Sakhardande, history lecturer and president of the Goa Heritage Action Group. Not your conventional mosque, the Namazgah, with etymological roots in Persian, is an open-air prayer area; a possible amalgamation of namaz, prayer, and idgah, place of prayer. But it's its architecture that is breathtaking. "It combines the best features of Persian and Mughal structural design, giving us rare pieces of Turko-Persian architecture in India," says Sakhardande. Within the main structure is a box-like enclosure, with arched openings on each wall, atop of which is a pumpkin-shaped dome with petals at its base. This enclosure could have possibly been the hujrah — a drawing room of sorts. Adjoining the enclosure's entrance are long balconies that face an open courtyard lined with pillars crowned with crescent capitals. This courtyard is now used for congregation on Eid. The long balconies are very similar to the balcoes (singular balcao) found in Goan Portuguese homes, showcasing a blend of Islamic and Portuguese architecture. Experts deem that the balcoes may have been a later addition, as a result of the Portuguese influence. Adjacent is a raised platform led by stairs, used perhaps as a seating area by the imam for the Quran recitation or khutbah. The azaan, or call for namaz, was likely given from here too. Experts point out that the very birth of the architecturally multi-influenced Namazgah was also a collaboration of sorts. In the early 1680s, Akbar II went rogue, declaring himself Mughal emperor of India, much to the dislike of his father, Aurangzeb, elucidates Sakhardande. Despite the support of a combined army of Muslim and Rajput soldiers, the prince's attempt to seize control failed and he was forced to retreat to the Deccan for safety. The Maratha king, Sambhaji, granted the fallen prince asylum, forging an alliance, and the Rajput-Mughal and Maratha troops collaborated to defeat the Portuguese invasion in Goa. In commemoration of this victory, Sambhaji allotted Akbar II land to erect the Namazgah. Today, the Namazgah shares its historically-important space with a mining ground. A board states that "the monument/site has been declared to be of state importance under the Goa, Daman and Diu Ancient Monuments and Archeological sites and Remains Act, 1978...", but access to it is a Herculean task for locals and visitors. Shaikh Shabbir Ismail, a resident of Bicholim, claims officials of the firm that holds the lease of the adjacent mining ground keep the gate leading to the hilltop closed, restricting visitors. "In the past, locals would regularly visit the Namazgah; we would even sometimes offer namaz or just sit there for leisure. But today, security guards of the mining firm restrict our entry into the area and even drive tourists away." The Namazgah is currently accessible only to Bicholim's Muslims on Eid for idgah. Sakhardande says he had written in 2011 to the then chief minister Digambar Kamat to make the place accessible to the public, but the restrictions continue. "The Namazgah is a historical monument. People cannot be stopped from visiting it," says Sakhardande in conclusion.(TOI)
