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Andheri Bakery

The humble pao has found no greater love than in Mumbai. Pao was first
commercially sold here by Goan bakers more than 200 years ago. In the
early twentieth century, the city's Iranian bakeries took over the
tradition, employing Goan workers to ensure pao's continuity.
Nowadays, there is no dearth of that slightly sweet, chewy bread whose
complex history is buried in its name – after all, pao is the
Portuguese word for bread. But as delicious and addictive as it may
be, it has a maddening generic, quality and, as flour has gotten more
expensive, an ever-so-subtle, artificial taste. For those looking for
something different, head to Andheri Bakery, which continues to make
pao as it should be.

Located off the lane leading to the Andheri (W) Jama Masjid, this
unassuming bakery makes what might very well be the city's best pao.
Cooked fresh three or four times daily, 365 days a year, the pao (Rs 1
apiece) has a slight hint of crust, is firmer than the usual pao and
softer than brun. The deep, natural flavour is extraordinary – quite
similar, in fact, to a French baguette. This should not be a surprise.
Like its more glamorous counterparts in the sixième, the only
ingredients are flour, salt, water and yeast. Unlike others, Andheri
Bakery does not add any chemicals or use machinery to knead the dough.
Chemicals and kneading machines "produce gas that artificially expands
the pao, so that less flour is needed", the owner says. If you don't
believe him, conduct the following test: compress an Andheri Bakery
pao and a regular pao. The regular pao will stay flat, whereas this
one will return to its original shape.

Andheri Bakery also prides itself on using a wood-fired oven, despite
the growing trend in almost all of the city's bakeries towards diesel
and electric. The wood stove has a noticeable effect: during the
cooking process, the wood smoke gets trapped in the space above the
bread, slowly cooking it from the top. The longer cooking time this
stove requires (45 minutes instead of 15 minutes for diesel stoves)
has its benefits – a slightly smoky flavour, a perfectly firm brown
crust, and, because of the reduced pollution, happier neighbours.

Despite having a wood-fired stove of a quality an Italian pizza chef
could only dream of, the owners of this 50-year-old, Iranian
family-owned bakery have no plans to make anything else. And why
should they? These days, keeping it natural is an innovation in
itself, as proven by the bakery's loyal customers, many of whom alight
at Andheri Station on their way to destinations further north
especially for this pao. They seem to know that this pao's steamy
presence in the crook of an arm can make even the gruelling
Churchgate-Virar trip elicit dreams of a picnic in a park. Jon Anjaria

Off Jama Masjid Lane, near Andheri Station, Andheri (W). Daily 7am-9pm.

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