------------------------------------------------------- Goanet recommends, and is proud to be associated with, 'Domnic's Goa' - A nostalgic romp through a bygone era. This book is the perfect gift for any Goan, or anyone wanting to understand Goa. Distributed locally by Broadway, near Caculo Island, Panjim & internationally by OtherIndiaBookStore.Com. For trade enquiries contact [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------------------------------- Andheri Bakery
The humble pao has found no greater love than in Mumbai. Pao was first commercially sold here by Goan bakers more than 200 years ago. In the early twentieth century, the city's Iranian bakeries took over the tradition, employing Goan workers to ensure pao's continuity. Nowadays, there is no dearth of that slightly sweet, chewy bread whose complex history is buried in its name – after all, pao is the Portuguese word for bread. But as delicious and addictive as it may be, it has a maddening generic, quality and, as flour has gotten more expensive, an ever-so-subtle, artificial taste. For those looking for something different, head to Andheri Bakery, which continues to make pao as it should be. Located off the lane leading to the Andheri (W) Jama Masjid, this unassuming bakery makes what might very well be the city's best pao. Cooked fresh three or four times daily, 365 days a year, the pao (Rs 1 apiece) has a slight hint of crust, is firmer than the usual pao and softer than brun. The deep, natural flavour is extraordinary – quite similar, in fact, to a French baguette. This should not be a surprise. Like its more glamorous counterparts in the sixième, the only ingredients are flour, salt, water and yeast. Unlike others, Andheri Bakery does not add any chemicals or use machinery to knead the dough. Chemicals and kneading machines "produce gas that artificially expands the pao, so that less flour is needed", the owner says. If you don't believe him, conduct the following test: compress an Andheri Bakery pao and a regular pao. The regular pao will stay flat, whereas this one will return to its original shape. Andheri Bakery also prides itself on using a wood-fired oven, despite the growing trend in almost all of the city's bakeries towards diesel and electric. The wood stove has a noticeable effect: during the cooking process, the wood smoke gets trapped in the space above the bread, slowly cooking it from the top. The longer cooking time this stove requires (45 minutes instead of 15 minutes for diesel stoves) has its benefits – a slightly smoky flavour, a perfectly firm brown crust, and, because of the reduced pollution, happier neighbours. Despite having a wood-fired stove of a quality an Italian pizza chef could only dream of, the owners of this 50-year-old, Iranian family-owned bakery have no plans to make anything else. And why should they? These days, keeping it natural is an innovation in itself, as proven by the bakery's loyal customers, many of whom alight at Andheri Station on their way to destinations further north especially for this pao. They seem to know that this pao's steamy presence in the crook of an arm can make even the gruelling Churchgate-Virar trip elicit dreams of a picnic in a park. Jon Anjaria Off Jama Masjid Lane, near Andheri Station, Andheri (W). Daily 7am-9pm.
