The fervor that the Goan attaches to his prayers is best seen in a rural chapel in one of Goa's heartland villages.
The Patrocino Chapel in Benaulim when I remember it last, was located right in the midst of some fields. The fields have given away to roads, buildings and shops making the chapel the centerpiece of it all. The rustic ambiance still remains as does the faith of the people who go there. Once embroiled in much controversy during the stewardship of Fr. Saturnino, including arson committed since the good priest allowed the "Born Agains" to conduct their services in one of the rooms, peace has since returned. It never ceases to amaze how religion causes violence rather than spreads peace. It was a Saturday evening and we were told that the 7pm mass at the Patrocino was the only English mass around. So we drove from Orlim in the dusk, passing the populous village of Varca, the home of notorious Churchill Alemao and on to Benaulim, the largest village in that part of Salcete. One cannot miss the old Livramente Chapel now a glistening brand spanking new Church built on modern architectural lines and called the Church of the Holy Trinity. The villages of that part of coastal Salcete that includes Majorda, Utorda, Cansaulim, Velsao, Betalbatim, Colva, Benaulim, Varca, Orlim, Carmona, Cavelossim and Mobor are some of the most picturesque Catholic villages in Goa. They exemplify beautiful old ancestral houses sitting cheek by jowl with modern architectural dwellings built with Gulf Dinars, Marine Moolah and lately Goans in the UK who have struck the lottery with soaring London real estate. Contrary to what I had heard, these are not monstrosities. Much planning and aesthetics have gone into their construction and the resulting effect is pleasant. The priest saying the mass at the Patrocino was clear in his intonations and brief and to the point in his homily. The acoustics in the chapel were as good as could be and the people who came to pray did so with the usual Goan sincerity and faith reminding me of the full throated responses and singing of a crowd at a typical village cross feast. I must confess I didn't hear mass as I should have. The beautiful stronged-limbed and fine-featured women for which Benaulim is well known held too much of my attention. God will forgive, for after all they are His creation. Roland. Roland Francis 416-453-3371
